Problem with evo 6
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 1
From: New zealand
Problem with evo 6
i have an evo 6 with a few problems, it will boost cut/ fuel cut (feels like hitting a wall) at around 10-12psi it will boost fine untill it hits that boost so i can half throttle it too red line holding the boost at 9psi and it will boos fine. Some other problems that could be the cause are as follows:
Misfires sometimes on idle and de acceleration
Fuel pressure wont go above 40psi when vacuum hose is off on idle
Low running temp/ high rpm idle
If you do a 1st gear pull then put the clutch in the revs will drop and it will stall
Harder to start on cold start, starts fine when warm
Vacuum reads -17/18ish when cold and -20/22 when warm
mod list is:
evo 7 block
evo 6 head
evo 8 turbo
evo 8 injectors
Autobahn88 front mount with stock piping
fenix radiator
550hp walbro fuel pump (unconfirmed only been told from last owner)
38mm wastegate unplumbed
aftermarket dump pipe
steamtube extractors
alloy intake pipe to turbo with big pod filter, still using afm
3 1/2inch turbo back exhaust
turbosmart type 2 bov
Exedy hd clutch
gfb geforce 2 with 3 port mac solenoid
Tomei fpr type s
Things i have changed are:
the tomi fpr - didnt change anything other than stopping it from running rich
New fuel filter
new spark plugs 0.30 gap
replcaed all vacuum lines and silicon joiners on the intercooler piping that had visible damage
has had fresh oil and filter
i dont know what else to look at, next thing im going to change is the fuel pump and the coils too see if they are the problem
also i think it might be the coolant temp sensor on why its running cold?
Misfires sometimes on idle and de acceleration
Fuel pressure wont go above 40psi when vacuum hose is off on idle
Low running temp/ high rpm idle
If you do a 1st gear pull then put the clutch in the revs will drop and it will stall
Harder to start on cold start, starts fine when warm
Vacuum reads -17/18ish when cold and -20/22 when warm
mod list is:
evo 7 block
evo 6 head
evo 8 turbo
evo 8 injectors
Autobahn88 front mount with stock piping
fenix radiator
550hp walbro fuel pump (unconfirmed only been told from last owner)
38mm wastegate unplumbed
aftermarket dump pipe
steamtube extractors
alloy intake pipe to turbo with big pod filter, still using afm
3 1/2inch turbo back exhaust
turbosmart type 2 bov
Exedy hd clutch
gfb geforce 2 with 3 port mac solenoid
Tomei fpr type s
Things i have changed are:
the tomi fpr - didnt change anything other than stopping it from running rich
New fuel filter
new spark plugs 0.30 gap
replcaed all vacuum lines and silicon joiners on the intercooler piping that had visible damage
has had fresh oil and filter
i dont know what else to look at, next thing im going to change is the fuel pump and the coils too see if they are the problem
also i think it might be the coolant temp sensor on why its running cold?
Things to check are the ignition wires, the idle air control valve, the biss screw adjustment and a boost leak test for sure.
If it's not tuned for vented blow off then put it back to recirculated valve. When you put the clutch in from 1st gear pull the ecu wants that air that you just whistled away to keep the engine running.
If it's not tuned for vented blow off then put it back to recirculated valve. When you put the clutch in from 1st gear pull the ecu wants that air that you just whistled away to keep the engine running.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 1
From: New zealand
Things to check are the ignition wires, the idle air control valve, the biss screw adjustment and a boost leak test for sure.
If it's not tuned for vented blow off then put it back to recirculated valve. When you put the clutch in from 1st gear pull the ecu wants that air that you just whistled away to keep the engine running.
If it's not tuned for vented blow off then put it back to recirculated valve. When you put the clutch in from 1st gear pull the ecu wants that air that you just whistled away to keep the engine running.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 1
From: New zealand
oh yep sweet, would you know why it runs cold also? Temp gauge goes up to about 2 or 3 lines before the halfway point? And it will slowly go up to halfway line if im sitting in traffic for a long time as in like 20 minutes of just sitting there idling
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 1
From: New zealand
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 54
Likes: 1
From: Denver
I would try the plug gap at .22-.24 to start with. Most guys with 8 turbos that I know are in the 20+ psi range. What type of boost control are you using?
also what is the pressure rating on your radiator cap? I assume its a full length stock radiator & not a half rad.
Also something is up with your fuel pressure regulator, or the vacuum line that provides the FPR with vacuum/ boost. you should be able to pull to vacuum line to the FPR and watch your fuel pressure gauge rise in pressure, then plug it back in and watch the fuel pressure go back down to base fuel pressure.I would take a look at the fuel pump & sock if I were you. you may also want to do a fuel pressure test and try and isolate the pump as being weak. but something is up with your FPR if it doesn't work like I said above.
also what is the pressure rating on your radiator cap? I assume its a full length stock radiator & not a half rad.
Also something is up with your fuel pressure regulator, or the vacuum line that provides the FPR with vacuum/ boost. you should be able to pull to vacuum line to the FPR and watch your fuel pressure gauge rise in pressure, then plug it back in and watch the fuel pressure go back down to base fuel pressure.I would take a look at the fuel pump & sock if I were you. you may also want to do a fuel pressure test and try and isolate the pump as being weak. but something is up with your FPR if it doesn't work like I said above.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 1
From: New zealand
I would try the plug gap at .22-.24 to start with. Most guys with 8 turbos that I know are in the 20+ psi range. What type of boost control are you using?
also what is the pressure rating on your radiator cap? I assume its a full length stock radiator & not a half rad.
Also something is up with your fuel pressure regulator, or the vacuum line that provides the FPR with vacuum/ boost. you should be able to pull to vacuum line to the FPR and watch your fuel pressure gauge rise in pressure, then plug it back in and watch the fuel pressure go back down to base fuel pressure.I would take a look at the fuel pump & sock if I were you. you may also want to do a fuel pressure test and try and isolate the pump as being weak. but something is up with your FPR if it doesn't work like I said above.
also what is the pressure rating on your radiator cap? I assume its a full length stock radiator & not a half rad.
Also something is up with your fuel pressure regulator, or the vacuum line that provides the FPR with vacuum/ boost. you should be able to pull to vacuum line to the FPR and watch your fuel pressure gauge rise in pressure, then plug it back in and watch the fuel pressure go back down to base fuel pressure.I would take a look at the fuel pump & sock if I were you. you may also want to do a fuel pressure test and try and isolate the pump as being weak. but something is up with your FPR if it doesn't work like I said above.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 1
From: New zealand
i did have a gfb geforce 2 with a mac solenoid but im just running wastegate pressure (vacuum line from turbo to bottom port on wastegate) and the wastegate has a 14.5psi spring in it. Yeah i have just gapped the plugs too 0.24 and it seems to help but im gonna try new coils and have a look at the pump aswell
bad fuel pump? Have tested voltage to the pump and its 12v while cranking the engine, no volts going to it while the key is in the on position tho
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2018
Posts: 22
Likes: 1
From: New zealand
