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Long cranking and slow start up issue

Old Jan 13, 2019, 07:40 PM
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Long cranking and slow start up issue

Long story short I had TSCOMPTUNED do a lot of work this past November. Full timing belt job, FiTronic install, SD conversion, FIC 1220, egr removal, colder spark plugs(BPR8EIX) and TB seals. A couple days before I got to pick the car up the IAC went out so he adjusted the tune so that I could get the car back. After getting the car back I got a new IAC and a Tial VTA BOV(Went from a 9 metal BOV) and installed them my self. Did a boost leak test, corrected the leaks and now I am just waiting so that he can remote tune it.

After putting in the new IAC in the car, the car idled at 2000 when the target idle is set at 1100 which makes sense since the tune was adjusted for the broken IAC. In the meantime I just screwed the BISS all the way down to get it to idle lower and it did at around 1188 according to evoscan. After doing that and installing the VTA BOV the AFRs were rather rich.

Now when the car was cold it would fire on the first or second crank shoot up to 500-700 then RPMs would shoot up high like any other car. I found this odd but it fired and I wasn't tuned so I attributed it to that. Warm starts was fine, it just fired straight up. This was constant until today.

So now that I am waiting for the tune and having the car run rich for about a month(mostly idle to sort out issues and a little bit of driving) I decided to pull the plugs to see if they were fouled and they seemed like they were.(I didn't unplug the battery because it was cold outside and wanted to just do it quickly) The tops of cylinders 1-2-4 from the camgears to the right were wet. I am not losing any oil or coolant. I thought it was strange but at the same time I knew I was running rich from the spark plugs and my AFR gauge.

I figured I would put them back in and wait till I get new ones, should be fine I mean the car started up good other than that hick up when cold. So I go to start the car and it is just cranking and cranking after about 5-6 seconds I stop. Thinking to my self wtf I go and check the connections and they are on fine, boots are on pressed all the way down. I start cranking again and it fires its idling super low then dies then I go to crank it again, it cranks then fires idles low but slowly the idle increases.

After it warms up I shut her off wait about 30 seconds then it fires off right away.

Keep in mind I started the car up yesterday in similar temps and it was fine.

My car is making about 370whp on e85. Is this a coil/fouled plug issue combined with the tune not being adjusted properly. Thats what I am thinking but I am not sure.

At this point I am just upset and disappointed about the ongoing problems with the car especially since I am leaving in April for OCS and won't be home for a lengthy time thus not being able to enjoy the car. So I want to drive the car now.

Please chime in as to what could be going on. Its just problem after problem and it really is pissing me off.
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Old Jan 13, 2019, 07:56 PM
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Also to add I checked for codes in evoscan and there are no codes
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Old Jan 13, 2019, 08:13 PM
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So you screwed the BISS screw all the way in to make it Idle lower, as the tune currently idled it at 2000rpm due to how it was calibrated to get you home? And the tune hasn't been adjusted since and you're running into issues now?
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Old Jan 13, 2019, 08:43 PM
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I really wasn't driving the car at all.

From the shop which he assured me everything was fine, then maybe 25 miles in total but the car did idle a bit to set up the TIAL BOV, afr logger and getting me situated with evoscan.

The start up issue is the only issue I ran into and that happened after I pulled the plugs and reinstalled them.

It hasn't been retuned because I was waiting for the IAC, TIAL, then the correct springs because even when I got the correct spring according to the chart it still wouldn't work correctly, did a boost leak test had to get more parts to fix the leak and between work, holidays I just got done with everything now and I figured might as well pull the plugs to see their condition and then I reinstalled them to get to this start up issue. Where it didn't occur at all before the plug check.

Last edited by TomekEVO; Jan 13, 2019 at 08:54 PM.
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Old Jan 13, 2019, 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Teal2nnr View Post
So you screwed the BISS screw all the way in to make it Idle lower, as the tune currently idled it at 2000rpm due to how it was calibrated to get you home? And the tune hasn't been adjusted since and you're running into issues now?
The tune was calibrated for the broken IAC, I put in a new IAC and then the car idled at 2000. I then screwed the BISS all the way in for the time being before I can get a tune so it wouldn't idle at 2000...
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Old Yesterday, 05:29 AM
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Never mind figured out the problem
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Old Yesterday, 01:16 PM
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Glad you sorted this out! Care to share what you did to fix this for folks down the road?
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Old Yesterday, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by heel2toe View Post
Glad you sorted this out! Care to share what you did to fix this for folks down the road?
Of course! I hate the people who just post they figured out something and didn't share how which is what I did lol.

Anyways this really was a user error on my part. The day prior I was messing with the BISS again and screwed it down with out going through the actuator/full warm up process. Basically I think the IAC and BISS settings didn't correspond with each other causing the problem. I sat there at night thinking what did I do between the car starting up fine to it starting up rough and got to the fix.



None the less I am still going to purchase a COP unit. Just don't know which one should I go with, the DIY spoolinup unit sounds intriguing because I can probably get coils for around 60 for the set form amazon which would be around 200 in total and I feel like I can figure out how to put it together through the few write ups on here or just purchase the already built one for around 400 which also has the warranties and its already built or just get the used unit for 300 which is the middle of the ballpark price wise and still has the warranties. Or get the harness built and then the COP plate and purchase the coils, this option would be around 260. Decisions, decisions!
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Old Yesterday, 06:52 PM
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If your car is at 370whp, it will run better with standard heat range spark plugs and OEM ignition. Would save ya some $$$ too.
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Old Yesterday, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by kaj View Post
If your car is at 370whp, it will run better with standard heat range spark plugs and OEM ignition. Would save ya some $$$ too.
My tuner suggested it so I went with the colder plugs. The COP is my idea as imo 4 coils > 2 coils any day. People even around 300whp have reported that their drivability around town got better, better idle, better gas mileage etc. I am aware that I won't see effects of it until I reach around 500whp
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Old Yesterday, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TomekEVO View Post
My tuner suggested it so I went with the colder plugs. The COP is my idea as imo 4 coils > 2 coils any day. People even around 300whp have reported that their drivability around town got better, better idle, better gas mileage etc. I am aware that I won't see effects of it until I reach around 500whp
I haven't had a tuner suggest cold plugs for anything under 600whp or more, so that's kinda strange. Running colder plugs affects how your car drives, but if you are happy with it and trust your tuner, nothing wrong with that.
As for COP I've heard opinions for and against, but it's your car, of course. Maybe the COP will offset the negative effects of the colder plugs.
I was trying to help ya save a few $$$s (I always assume others like to save cash because I do LOL) and let you know what most Evo owners use. I'm not really one to follow the crowd either so I say "do whatcha like".
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Old Yesterday, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by kaj View Post
I haven't had a tuner suggest cold plugs for anything under 600whp or more, so that's kinda strange. Running colder plugs affects how your car drives, but if you are happy with it and trust your tuner, nothing wrong with that.
As for COP I've heard opinions for and against, but it's your car, of course. Maybe the COP will offset the negative effects of the colder plugs.
I was trying to help ya save a few $$$s (I always assume others like to save cash because I do LOL) and let you know what most Evo owners use. I'm not really one to follow the crowd either so I say "do whatcha like".
Don't get me wrong I like to save cash too! My entire Exhaust system was 200 for parts and 20 in high heat paint. When I got it it was all rusted and corroded took all the rust off and hit it with paint/polished the can and the tip(this is really what you see) after I was done with it you would think that its brand new. No way in hell I am spending 800 plus for a pipe that sits outside.

Anyways I think the COP is beneficial. The spark plugs are open to debate. Tom knows more than me and has worked on these cars for years so I trust his suggestion. I think it really has to do with the boost level rather than mods from what I seen on the forums. I peak at 29 and taper to 24 on e85/25 and taper to 24 on 93 octane on stock 8 turbo(really pushing it, I know but I plan on going to a FP turbo anyways)
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Old Yesterday, 11:08 PM
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Maybe. I pretty much run the same boost on an HTA71. I think it's right around 460whp or so on e85.
like I said ,though ,there's more than one way to skin a cat. If we're happy ,that's all that matters.
And nice job rescuing that exhaust! I did the same with a manifold. After a year, still looks decent:


​​​​​​

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Old Yesterday, 11:49 PM
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I'd say it looks more than decent, looks great!

I have a bunch of pictures from my entire "build" so I plan to make a thread. I will send you a link in PMs so you can check it out.
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Old Today, 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by TomekEVO View Post
I'd say it looks more than decent, looks great!

I have a bunch of pictures from my entire "build" so I plan to make a thread. I will send you a link in PMs so you can check it out.
Awesome! I look forward to it! I should probably update mine.
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