i was about to buy the rmr clutch disc from lancershop.com but then i got to thinking about the installation. is there anything else i should get that can go in the trany so i can save money on install in the future?? i know i could get a flywheel.. but is there anything else? and also, the RMR clutch disc will be about the same as upgrading the stock clutch since it burns out quickly right? by the way, i have 9000 miles and have basic mods like intake exhaust dynoflash boost control and bov.

Thanks for your time
Ben

 

come on... come on... i am waiting to order this stuff.... please if you have ANY advice, post now!!

Thanks

 

You may consider the clutch line and the shift bushings. Makes shifting much more precise.

 

if your interested in you warranty the only higher performance option is the X-clutch by Road Race Enginnering...looks like stock smells like stock holds WAY better than stock. AFTERmarket clutchs increase loads on the rest of the drive train...

 

You might get a faster response if you posted in the correct forum!! Moving to Evo turbo/engine/drivetrain

Speedlimit..

 

I had the SS, stainless clutch line, clutch, lightened flywheel all done at the same time. I was gonna do the downpipe but ran out of money. I think (might be wrong) that you have to drop the tranny or hoist the engine to install the downpipe...not sure.

 

Do the X clutch (no name clutch from RRE) or the ACT PP from them with the upgraded disc. Go to their site and read up on it. You can't beat the price... I think they give you $50 off the flywheel if you purchase it at the same time. Either should be all the clutch you need for anything under 400whp (unless your a drag strip queen).

 

yeah the RRE No Name is going to be the way i have to go. I have been looking into it for some months now. Today was the death of my clutch and its time to start fund raising. i kinda knew it was going for about the past week bull**** *** mitsubishi.... a clutch sooooooooo shouldnt go at 11,xxx miles......

 

so you guys say that the no name is the way to go.... what is the differance between the no name clutch kit and the rmr or act clutch disc? i'm assuming that it's not as good as the clutch kit but it's a lot cheaper so i have to know why it's not as good. oh, and speedlimit, sorry about posting in the wrong area.

Thanks for everyones help
Ben

 

when replacing a clutch is is usuallt a good idea to replace the pilot bushing/bearing as well as the throwout bearing

typically you will pay more in labor than parts when installing a clutch so you'll want to get it right the first time & not have to tear it back down to replace a 5$ part you had access to when down there the fiorst time

 

Here's my couple suggestions. First and most important. Everyone will tell you that the flywheel is not a necessity because the stock is already light. You have to understand that you are going to have to take your flywheel to someone and hope that they know what they are doing well enough to turn it. You are then going to wonder if it was done right. On top of this they could not have it perfectly flat so you get a vibration in the pedal and so on. For the hassle of having to leave the car apart and run somewhere to do the clutch, and then wonder if it is right, I suggest you bite the bullet and do the flywheel. I say this from experience. Second, if you are going to do this yourself, it is a JOB!!!! I don't care if some people on here say it can be done in 3 hours or whetever. If you haven't done one before and just want to try it, I guarantee at very least 8 hours!!! When you are all said and done the best scenerio would be to take it to someone that has done say at least 4 or 5 and buy the flywheel. Just my 2 cents.

You'll drive your car away comfortable with the work and parts installed instead of wondering why you didn't buy the flywheel and have someone do it.

 

Oh yea, a little input on my choice. I used the Clutch Masters stage IV ceramic 4 puck. It bits like a beaatch. Borderline a pain to drive at first, getting used to it now. I haven't really tried to launch it real hard yet, still breaking it in. I think, for the money, it is a good choice. They make a light flywheel also. You can buy both for like $1100. They guaranteed me that it would hold, and for a long time. I also made them give me phone numbers to people that had bought this clutch and I called them to ask some questions. I told them I was close to 400 WHP and might do a big turbo and be 500+ WHP.

 

The Evo has no pilot bushing. You should replace the clutch as a set with the pressure plate. The throw out bearing is also an item you should look into replacing while you're there. Don't bother with a lighter flywheel, the stock is more than light enough. If you don't drag your Evo too much you should go with a single disc like the stock one, but a dual disc is more dependable for the strip. The downside to a dual disc is cost, drivetrain shock, and that anoying rattle when you depress the clutch or decel from speed. Good luck!

 

Hey superz, I have a question. I have the stage IV ceramic 4 puck Clutch Masters and it does the decel noise and acts kind of chattery sometime. Not like loud, or bad, but sometimes makes me question it. I haven't even launched the car yet and I have like 600-700 miles on it. I'm just trying to break it in and am a little scepticle of the noises. Thanks

 

If the disc on that set-up is a solid hub design (no springs) you may hear noises. These noises come from the fact that there are no springs to absorb normal vibrations in the clutch/flywheel area. I suspect theres nothing to worry about. If the noise is coming from somewhere else (transfer case or internal tranny) then you should have it checked out further.