Hey guys, some of you replied to my post of "my car is running awful", and I got it running better, but its still not perfect. After I swapped the plugs, it is 90% better. The only problem that I am still having is an occasional cutting out at any RPM, and then a constant problem at exactly 2,500 rpms.

That is a big problem to me because I do most of my driving at or around 2,500. It seems to be the worst when I am in like 4th or 5th and just kinda cruising at low highway speeds. It will just like completely cut out for a fraction of a second, and then come back on.

It seems the worst when the car is under load. If I am doing like 60 in 5th, that puts it right about 2,500, and I am coming up any kind of an incline that puts a load on the motor, it just cuts in and out. I am running super conservative numbers on my SAFCII, and I also have an intake and turbo back exhaust.

Any thoughts on this matter would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
kyle

 

What did your plugs look like when you replaced them.

 

They were a little white. They werent awful, but they werent great.

 

We need to go over your AFC instalation in detail. If you come to the Indiana meet up on Tuesday I will bring along the instalation instructions I recieved from Buschur Racing from when I was running the SAFC and we will go over your setup to see if anything is f'ed up there.

Later,

Keith

 

Check the AFC install wires. May be loose or incorrect.

 

Yeah, I will be there Tuesday night. It seems like when I reset the computer by unplugging the battery and turning off the check engine light that the car runs better, not great, but a lot better until the light comes back on.

I am also noticing that the egts are pretty hot. I was just running it hard through 3rd, and it got to like 830 before I shut it down. I am running at most -4% on hi throttle.

The jerking can be pretty violent at some times, but most of the time its just a total lack of power, its like a Honda hybrid that shuts off at stop signs, haha. Then it just kinda kicks back in in half a second or so.

I didnt wire the thing, my shop did, the guy that did it is an installer at a audio/electronics shop in town. It cant hurt to have someone else look over it though.

I really appreciate everyones help. It sucks to have a $500 per month car payment, pay $2,000 in mods, and have a car that runs like turd. I look forward to the meet on tuesday.
kyle

 

put a scan tool up to your car and see if you have a p0300 or any misfire code. u may think the cel you have is for the cat when infact it may not be also you said u have a cat, so you shouldnt have a cel for that.

your car sounds liek its suffereing fromt the misfire delema, the transmission sends a resonance throught the crnak and the ckp actualy reads this as a misfire, resulting in a cel and in worse cases drivability problem, like chugging and hesitation, usualy in higher gears nder laod.

i bet that cel you think id for your exhaust is misfire codes

 

No, I actually do not have a cat, if I said that, I was wrong, its a full turbo back with no cat, just 3" all the way. I need to do a search and find out how to read the codes on this thing. I am pretty new to the DSM market, but I have been working with naturally aspirated Hondas for quite a while. Thanks for your help. I will check the codes when I figure o ut how.
kyle

 

What are you using for boost control?? It sounds like its severely overboosting what your describing is symptoms of fuel cut or boost cut.. That or the MAF sensor wiring or the grounds for the S-AFC are fouled up..

 

if you have no cat ur probably right and thats the reason for the cel, i must have misread your other post, try unistalling the afc. see what happens.

 

Check out your O2 sensor on the O2 housing and make sure all is well. When there is an O2 problem the stock ECU goes into fuel safe mode. Your car may also be misfiring at a cruise. Call Doug as Boost Solutions at 1-770-904-2644 and he will be able to direct you to a NGK plug that works great. He had that same problem and those plugs fixed it. I'd tell you but I forget the exact model.

 

is your air flow meter plugged in ? i would alo go ver the afc install, it does sound like a overboosting issue,as said before

 

I am running a brand new set of NGK BPR7ES plugs right now. The old ones were decent, but I dont think they were causing the problem. I didnt wire the AFC, so I will have to have someone else look it over that knows what is going on.

My shop should have the CEL eliminator in today. When I pull a battery terminal off and reinstall it to reset everything and get rid of the CEL, the car seems to run better. Its hard to tell though because it is so sporatic.

I dont think that I am overboosting and I am just cruising at low boost levels most of the time when this happens. It is now happening while cruising and while accelerating.

The AFC is plugged in to the best of my knowledge, when it is setting still idling, if you can call it that, when you change the settings it affects the idle, so I do believe that it is plugged in.

Thanks for the advice. I will check things as you guys inform me of possibilities for problems. Thanks,
kyle

 

Are you running the factory intake? If so make sure the two retaining pins on the front part of the snorkle are installed and secure. If not, the thing flies against the top of the hood and blocks off airflow creating similar problems to what you are describing.

 

The Afc intercepts the mass air sensor signal. If it was installed correctly, you should be able to disconnect that one wire and reconnect it to stock. See if that solve the problem.