He didn't elaborate on how he came to this. Did he do a before and after dyno pull? This is also an older thread. Everybody has learned alot about the Evo in a year.
Out here, heat is my enemy. That has been my main focus. My air intake temps are 110-129F during the day, not good.
In the winter, I see 65-80F, big difference.
I may run into problems in the winter, but it's much easier to heat-up the motor.
I may have to change out thermostats then?

 

quoted from that thread: "On a brighter note when I went to the autoparts store I was able to match up the thermostat with another one that opens fully at 160 deg f. instead of the factory 199. Thanks everyone for the info that was given."

He didn't use a Ralliart thermostat. I don't think it opens as low as 160..I belive its just a few degree's below the stock 199. I've been following this thread and I think I'm going to try some "water wetter" stuff when I change my oil the next time.

Just curious what you are using to report engine temps.. I haven't read this entire thread yet so you may have already said.. I'd like to work on lowering my temps also

 

have a part # for that?

 

Yeah where did you get your Ralliart thermostat at bishi? price?

This is a really good thread! I don't live where temps get too far over 90's but I'd like for my car to run cooler

 

I got the Ralliart stat from Boost Solutions, $65 + shipping.
I'm using the Auterra Dyno-Scan for datalogging. I really love this thing, even does pretty accurate Dyno pulls, 0-60, 1/8 & 1/4 mile times.

 

I had the same concern, but I was told that steel cracking is more a result of the metal cooling down too quickly, and so ceramic coating helps slow down the cooling.

It makes sense to me.

 

why not take the stat out all together? i know that the whole point of a stat is to get upto running temps quicker. but if its already hot out there then its only going to take as long as it normaly takes in colder climets isn't it? and with the satat out you will get much better flow rates than with one in, thus reducesing running temps! i know you may get to a point where you are running too cold but it would be worth looking into i think.

have you tried insulating the top rad hose? it does sit close to the exhaust manifold on the EVO!

thanks Chris.

 

If you don't run a stat, it will probably run too cold (overall).
If flows get too high, you lose cooling efficientcies and the water isn't up against the hot metal long enough, result is hot spots.

 

Since you're in AZ, I would run a 90/10 H2O/coolant mixture just for the corrosion protection.

My experiences with Redline's Water Wetter is not so good. It left an oily residue all over my overflow tank when it broke down.

 

What's wrong with oily?
Water wetter has been around for more than 15 years.
When I started road racing motorcycles in 1990, they recomended distilled water and water wetter. My buddies have been running ever since, no bad effects.
If you have an "oily" residue, how can you get corrosion?
Coolant is for freezing and waterpump lubrication. Water wetter takes care of lube.
Ask race guys.

 

Iv'e seen some custom air ramps made for the intake, they bolt on to the top of the bumper to scoop up air.

also the radiator shrouds should help the radiator take in more air http://www.lancershop.com/cooling.htm

 

Like I said, the overflow tank looked like $hit. I can't imagine what it might look like in the radiator and heater core. If oil is so good, why not replace your entire cooling system with oil?

So has the "Tornado" , Marvel Mystery Oil, etc. Your point?

I'm only giving MY personal experiences with this product. Besides, how often do race motors get teared down? How often does their coolant get flushed and replaced? How often are YOU going to flush and replace your cooling system for your car?

The same way motor oil contains buffers to control corrosion.

Not every race guy will recommend water wetter. Trust me, I've asked.
Coolant is just for freezing and waterpump lubrication???

http://www.havoline.com/products/na/antifreeze.html

You realize coolant also contain buffers to control pH, right? There's a reason for that.

Have you ever seen the speed of corrosion of iron in water? Only takes a day before you see surface rust. And this is in room temperature. Higher the heat (like that in an engine), higher the rate of oxidation.

Look man, I'm not entirely sure why your reply is so defensive. I'm simply adding my own experiences with this product.

 

well OFCOURSE waterwetter may freeze it... the whole point is to lower the temp, which makes it more vulnerable for freezing in the cold... if u live in the cold part of the country, u have to flush the radiator if ur using waterwetter in the summer.....

 

A few notes...

I bypassed the TB coolant lines within days of getting my Evo (hot azz Texas). There was no notable effect on idle or engine performance what so ever. TB felt to warm up slower, but that is subjective. I still do it on all my cars now just for good hot Texas measure.

Mitsuorder, I meant to do this to your car when we had the head off and forgot.

The Hondata gasket is worth it's weight in gold... I forget the data logs on my GSR, but on a 300hp Honda engine, it was worth 5-10 degrees on intake temps... more so in stop and go traffic than steady state high speed driving where it was still closer to 5 degrees lower. Keep in mind this has been a few years back, but I believe that is about right.

 

looks like hondata has come out with a heatshield gasket for our evos, wish I would have known when we had my car torn apart