Well, I don't swing that way, but to each their own!

 

Even funnier still is that I have a Black Sash in Jeet Kune Do, and a brown in Wing Chun * Si Lum, yet hate to be called a Martial Artist... I prefer to be called a "Practitioner". Seems "...my hypocrisy knows no bounds..." but yes, there is a balance in everything... and nothing.


joeycoates,

If you can afford him, you might want to see if darkhorse can address the cap issue for you... at least you wouldn't lose ANY sleep wondering if it were done right.

 

Darkhorse, you seem like a very very knowledgeable guy, especially when it comes to engine internals and machining and was just wondering if you read the article in the lastest popular science. If you havent I highly suggest you check it out, there is a good 5 or 6 page article about this man, I believe from India who in an attempt to create a better and more thorough combustion decided to cut grooves in the head itself, to cause turbulence which he believes creates a better mixture between the fuel and air. I found it very interesting, being that for all intents and purposes for maximum power, the more even and smoothe the head of the combustion chamber seems to creat the best results. Sorry I probably explained this far far too basically but check it out.

Scorke

 

Hey Zeus, I'm thinking about getting into a bar fight on 6th Street. Wanna come along?

Sorry for the hijack. Nice work Joey.

 

Looks like a nice job. I'm too scared to start grinding away on my newly aquired head.

For anyone out there listening, how does a light port job like this compare to the clean up provided by the ExtrudeHone process? I've been kicking around the idea of havingmy head extrudeHoned versus a hand porting job.

 

When you hand port it, you can make it shaped as you want it. AFAIK, extrude hone just removes material all over.

 

Hey propellerhead, it is worth a try. I used a dremel with the cable attachment so that I could get to the inside of the ports. I started off with grindstones shaped kind of like a flying saucer to take the roughness off. I think that they are about .75 inch in diameter or so, but I used them instead of something smaller so that I would not dig into the aluminum like a smaller metal bit would. It took a while, but by using those and going slowly it only took a little bit of metal out instead of possibly gouging. After I had the shape I wanted I went to these little wheels that you screw onto the same shafts that you use for cutting disks, and they look kind of like a sponge but they are abrasive. They come two to a pack and one is bwown and the other is greyish. The gray was a little more course. With these you can get the smoother finish. I will try and find the bit numbers while at work as I have an evening job at Home Depot. If you have any questions then let me know.

Zeus, I wish that I had the money to let Darkhorse do the other work, but rebuilding this engine is costing a lot of money, I do not think that I could afford him but like you said I would have no worries about it being done absolutely right if he did it.

 

this is a true statement but as I said in darkhorse's head repair thread, you DON'T want to remove a lot of material without a flowbench and a lot of experience. you will eff something up-- bigger is not necessarily better by any means.

all you should be doing by hand is what it sounds & appears that Joey is doing-- cleaning things up. your shouldn't be reshaping or removing a lot of material.

 

That's right. I hope I didn't imply that you SHOULD screw up the head.

 

I'm curious, how bad was the pitting you had in your #1 & #4 chambers? The pics I've seen of the head Darkhorse worked on and the one I've got both have some pretty bad pits left over from casting. The one I've got is seems pretty bad. I'm wondering how much these pits are contributing to the phenomenon of "knock sensitive" Evos.

Should these be fully "polished" out or should they be filled and then polished?

 

I'd think that makes for a pretty crappy detonation threshold... You got me wanting to pull and clean mine up.

 

My head was not that bad which makes sence as when Shiv tuned my car in March it was not very detonation sensitive, actually it was pretty good about not detonating. That casting flash is pretty bad, did you notice that 2 and three are much better then 1 and 4? At least on my head that is what I saw. If anyone wants to do their head then call San Rafel Mitsubishi, a stock head gasket is around $50 from them and it is a good gasket. Then if you have not already done so put in son ARP head studs, it will give you some piece of mind. The main dremel bits I used were the 85422 which is the grinding stone and the 511 which were the abrasive sponge like wheels.

 

Why is everyone under the impression that I cannot be afforded for work? What ever gave anyone that impression?

I have yet to see the article, turbulence can be beneficial in the right place, but if you dont have everything well mixed by the time the door is shut in the chamber and its getting squeezed, then you are in trouble.

The potential for hot spots and detonation causing areas due to the roughness in the casting shoudl be smoothed out, it will help.

 

Ok, Darkhorse.. I have a core for a head and OE intake manifold I want done (the full port/polish/match, etc..).. the head is missing the valves, retainers, springs.. but how much am I looking at? Oversized valves and whatnot.. I'd much rather deal with someone local.. PM me with info if you can't post it here..

 

Two reasons I can think of:
One, when a price ($3500) was thrown out in a thread regarding some work you were doing on an Evo head, it was neither disputed nor qualified. For all some people know, that price was simply to install the ARP cam cap studs.

Two, for those of us who understand the amount of time it takes to pay attention to detail to the level you have demonstrated, we can easily work out a rough ballpark figure in our heads. For basic work, the figure in my head starts at $2000, not including parts like springs, retainers and valves. I could be totally wrong, but I doubt I am.

For some of us it's a tough decision, especially after dropping $5K on a short block, cylinder head, clutch, turbo and other goodies. Then again, what's another $1500 or so on top of what we'd spend on another shops work?

I think he's referring to boundary layer turbulance which as I understand it will reduce friction along the walls of the port.

That's what I figured. I'm hoping a clean rebuild of my head and nicely polished chambers will allow me to sqeeze alot of power without false knock or real knock holding me back.

I'm sorry this is