Blowthrough MAF - Pix of the install and plug and play harness
 

Ok guys.. I just finished the plug and play harness for my blowthrough MAF sensor.. Figured I'd post a few pix for you guys to check out..

I used an Ultimate Racing upper pipe, but short-routed it to mate up with the bottom portion of the Buschur Racing upper pipe kit.

I also discovered that the 1G valve is partially open at idle and blows air out of it, hence the whistling alot of us experience, I'm going to replace my valve in a few days. There's always a small amount of positive pressure in the upper pipe when the throttleplates are closed even though the intake Manifold reads vacuum.

Adjustment is pretty easy, the Translator box has a signal control on it, I have it set to 45hz (Stock is 30hz) so it runs a little rich until Closed loop fuel control learns..

Engine revs quicker, signal output is SMOOTH, car does not stall under any circumstances, and idle is more stable.

I actually cast a mold of the stock MAF sensors "Plug" and cast my own connector with pins in it.. I then soldered it onto the MAF upgrade kit (thanks www.ultimate-racing.com Sorry for the delay in posting about this)

It offers the best of both worlds, all the beneficial features of speed density (no restriction issues, easy calibration, etc) with the best features of retaining the MAF sensor.. Plus you can use a VTA BOV (my 1g has a filter on it for the time being until I find the missing flange parts I need for one of the other BOV's I have laying around)

See the pix.. Ask your questions.. I'll try to answer a bit more after I can do a full OPEN LOOP FUELING Retune with my UTEC.. The reason I wasn't using the blowthrough earlier was because of my beta testing and needing a stable configuration for the duration.

Ugly first attempt at casting a mold of the connector.. However the second one looks just like the ABS plastic stock part, except its not connected to the MAF sensor
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=44960&stc=1

This was the final product.. this is actually a connector that I CAST, this is not a factory connector. I used two part high-temp resin, with matte black dye.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=44961&stc=1

This is where I tucked the translator box (easy to get at to make minor adjustment)
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=44962&stc=1

The moment of truth.. Notice the entire setup is short-routed just like the buschur upper pipe.. It took a little bit of modification since the Ultimate racing upper pipe is designed to clear the stock battery and hook up to the stock intercooler piping at the coupler, I just took some liberties with it. Lets just say it wasn't as hard to get hooked up as it originally seemed.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=44963&stc=1

Of course, here's my entire ugly engine bay.. Not much to look at eh?
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...id=44964&stc=1

If you guys are wondering what happened to my trick oil trap.. I accidentally broke it when I took it apart to install this stuff....

Surprisingly this was a real easy install, even easier with the plug I created.. Should I ever have trouble with this sensor, I have my stock maf sensor and K&N filter for it in my trunk in a small bag.. I can swap the old sensor onto the Buschur MAF pipe in all of 5 minutes if I needed to.

Also notice I have a really ugly aluminum plug in the MAF pipe's recirculation hose.. I was too cheap to buy another intake pipe, but will replace it and the DV when I'm certain everything works right.

Enjoy folks!

Sorry about the kinda crappy photos.. Spent more time installing than documenting.. sorry, no How-To on it, I can do that another time.

BTW, I attempted to make all the wiring look as OE as possible.. Unfortunately with those ugly blue couplers, I can't pass that pipe off as anything near stock..

This and the UTEC gives me nearly 100% control over every useful parameter on the car.

NICE! you ever think about making a "kit" for evom members?

Great job. First attempt scared me but you really pulled though!!! How is that other engine build coming i lost on ebay :(

Chris

Yeah, thats why I posted it.. I tried originally using the resin casting methods that I did for making interior components but it didnt work right.. second attempt was a two-part mold and an ABS Heat cured resin with microfibers in it..

And the engine isn't done yet.. Going to talk to crower about their stroker kit, their setup is tested up to 9000rpm, I just want to hear back from buschur about his kit first though.

well i guess you are one of the lucky ones....cause they dont sell the blow trough maf anymore

Actually I did some research and found the company that manufactures the sensors and electronics.. Unfortunately this kit (and getting directly from the manufacturer) is no bargain so I can understand why they dropped it.. But it does offer someone with an alternative unrestrictive setup that can be used with any piggyback, reflash, or other device that relies on the stock Karmann sensor reading.

Wow. that looks great. if you don't mind me asking. what do you do for a living. are you an engineer. every post on here from you is full of information, and it seems that any kinda of work from you is more the perfect. I just amazed how good that looks. {thumbup}

-Chad-

What is the difference between using something like that and the 3" GM part that seems to be fairly common in the DSM word. I do not know much about the whole thing so forgive the question if it is ignorant. The reason I ask is that the GM part is fairly cheap and there is some sort of box sold to covert the signals.

Well, basically the sensor itself is an upgraded sensor typically used on a Ford Cobra, but large enough to flow enough air for 600whp or so.

the GM sensor is also a hot wire sensor, but its more or less a stock part, either 3" or 3.5". if you go to www.ramchargers.com you can get their MAF translator, however it will need to be calibrated since the one they sell is for the 1G and 2G DSM or 3KGT, You can save some money using a GM sensor.

The advantage of the kit I used was the sensor is independent of the housing, therefore it can be built to your metering specifications (in this case Ultimate Racing had it designed and calibrated to their specs, and it works great)

The one drawback to this kit, actually either of the translator kits, is its not completely plug and play, however it can be used as a blowthrough or drawthrough setup. If they offered the plug and play harness I guarantee they would have sold quite a few more.

This particular kit has an IAT sensor also, so there's no CEL no matter what, all sensors read correctly.

BTW, I'm still chuckling over the tazer story..

I work in Information technology, I'm a forensic analyst. However I was an engineer for quite a few years before getting into the computer field. (I've always worked in the computer field, and always was a programmer, but now I work with computers because their computers, where previously the computers were the tools)

Damn fine work!!! Does it fit as snug as itg looks?

Yeah, I had some trouble with the pins at first.. THen I discovered that heavy duty staples were the EXACT size of the pins, (1.5mm wide by a few mil thick) I used stainless tacks and electroplated them so they won't degrade.. (found a good use for old jewelry)

It fits and clips pretty much like stock, but I'm concerned it may be a little fragile for repeated uses, so I'm still trying to find the part number and Manufacturer of the OE connector

I'm very meticulous about wiring and details, sometimes to the point of being paralyzed, but the end results are usually worthwhile, and the extensive planning I do means I rarely have to stop what I'm doing and wait for more parts.


Wait till you guys see the coil-on-plug setup I'm also working on..

Very impressive... ingenious.