Breaking in(do's & don't)
 

im getting my car back this saturday. I have done breaking in engines before but not like evo(turbocharged car). Any do's and dont's?
also...should i put the hks 280's now or after i broke it in?
how many miles should I break it in at least? what is the max rpm per gear? do i need to bring it back to the shop to re-torque the studs?
thanks in advance!
---> check my blew up motor>>>>https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...48#post4394048

don't: post before searching
do: a search

sorry, normally i hate when people say search, but even i've seen this discussed over a trillion times

^ link?( I did search for 15 min)

So many theories here. What I do is start let idle till warm up and change oil. We have been running Non Detergent 30w for the 1st 100mi.

I than go out with car on lowest boost and known safe tune and make many wot pulls to about 5.5k and than let the car decal down to around 3k. Do this about 7 times and than I drive normal with lots of down shifting for about 100mi. I than change the oil to what ever I am going to run and than start tuning and beating the crap out of the car getting it ready for the track :)

I am sure some will say I am stupid but I have done 30+ motors all this way with no problems that were related to break in practice.

Most of my cars are the the drag strip with in 200mi of a motor being in.

I try to not change anything in the tuning or cams till at lest 100mi. Things like the car flooding out on 1st start up and not running right is the main key in the motor break in.

So things like Injectors, ECU, changes during a rebuild is a bad idea in my book.

So I guess I have to put back the stock map when i break it in??? Will it be too reach coz of the Walbro?

anymore suggestion?

Everyone has their own opinion or theories. I startup a motor. Dial in A:F while someone checks for leaks. Let the car idle at 1500RPM - 2000RPM for fifteen to twenty minutes. Change the oil and oil filter. Tune partial throttle. Change oil and oil filter. Tune wide open throttle / boost :) Oh. And change oil after ;) This is for new pistons, rings, bearings, etc.

Fuel pump will not make that big of a difference in startup. Just big changes like injectors and different ECU.

Good example would be switching from stock ECU to AEM or going from 560s to 850s during the build and than trying to tune start up on the fresh motor.

More and more I am leaning toward the methods that call for generating a lot of heat initially.

It's worth the few minutes to read this webpage:

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Isn't this for bike only?:confused:

Drive it like you normally would.

I allow the car to warm up, and cool down. I drove it hard from day one. A buddy of mine followed the book.

After his break-in, I ran him numerous times, and pulled on him every single time, on the top of 3rd (about half car length. He said my butt was at his pass door). Both cars' stock: his a 9MR, mine a 05 8. On the dyno, his laid down 253/252 and mine 252/268.

Possible mine is a Frankenstein... or better break in.... or Im a better driver :D

can anyone tell me your compression(after) with easy break in? and those who broke in hard?

After the bold above compression has always been 180 - 190 with 8.8:1 - 9.5:1 compression and all cylinders being within 1 - 2 of each other at most. That's with the injectors turned off, wide open throttle and eight cranks