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Exedy Twin Failure? Need Diagnosis Assistance...
Hi all,
I have an 06 Evo IX w/ 26000miles on the clock. I had an Exedy Twin HD purchased at and installed by Strictly Modified in January 2010 after my stock unit failed at around 16000 miles (probably 8k of that saw the 371awhp/340awtq I have now). I was driving from Chicago to Champaign after the car sat for 7 days and noticed the clutch is slipping a lot, at first slightly in 2nd, more in 3rd, and even more in 4th. In the past 6 months especially I have noticed a decent amount of noise in the clutch when first engaging at slow speeds, usually a groaning noise. The noise was often alleviated by running the clutch hard which lead me to believe the groaning and slightly uneven engagement was caused by some oxidation/ corrosion on the clutch or flywheel. As a result, when I noticed the slipping today on the highway, I followed up with some 3-6kRPM pulls in 4th gear repeatedly to try and "clean" the surface. Initially this worked and the clutch pulled cleanly. I later tried some short pulls from 3-4k in 5th again noting initial slipping but then it would grab smoothly on subsequent pulls. This worked until I tried another 4th gear pull to make sure all was well and it began to slip heavily and did not right itself. Upon exiting the highway, I tried to hammer the car a bit with as much WOT as I could but saw no slippage (I did not have much opportunity given speed limits however). This clutch has only seen one track day and I am very gentle with my car on the street and horse around very little. My questions are: is the clutch toast or is it possible its "dirty" or the pedal is perhaps not adjusted to allow full engagement (the pedal position has never been altered since install)? Does this sound like a possible fluid leak on the clutch? Is 10k miles even remotely normal for an Exedy Twin HD? I was initially told to expect 20-40k out of this clutch and given I have not beat the clutch hardly at all, 10k is appalling. Could there have been installation error or could the clutch be defective? The car is drivable for now and I am not worried about that, I am worried about spending another 1k+ for another clutch that only lasts 10k miles and offers no foreseeable benefits over my stock unit. Any help would be appreciated though please refrain from any generic slurs aimed at the Exedy Twin (or SM for that matter). Thanks! |
Do you have a clutch fork stopper? If so it needs to be adjusted as the clutch wears out. If you dont the stopper will prevent the clutch from fully releasing causing the clutch to slip.
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Originally Posted by wizzo 8
(Post 9301209)
Do you have a clutch fork stopper? If so it needs to be adjusted as the clutch wears out. If you dont the stopper will prevent the clutch from fully releasing causing the clutch to slip.
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Thats a huge problem with the clutch fork stop. You have to constantly adjust it to keep it optimized.
Have you adjust the pedal? What you are experiencing is not normal. Are you good at driving stick? Do you slip the clutch a lot? |
Originally Posted by Protostar1
(Post 9301316)
Yes I do have a stop! That would be amazing if that were the issue... I believe I have the MAPerformance one installed. If I remember correctly its a set screw with a jam nut on it. I assume I can reach it from the engine bay? I am not looking at the car now, just wondering what mental state I need to be in to get this fixed... Also, how many turns would you recommend so that it still works as a stop but allows my clutch to grab better? Thanks a ton!
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Originally Posted by Boltz.
(Post 9301322)
Thats a huge problem with the clutch fork stop. You have to constantly adjust it to keep it optimized.
Have you adjust the pedal? What you are experiencing is not normal. Are you good at driving stick? Do you slip the clutch a lot? |
Originally Posted by wizzo 8
(Post 9301355)
Yea this happened to me the after about 3 launches at the strip. I thought the clutch was done which is why my sig says with slipping clutch. After getting home I looked into it and found my stopper was holding the fork back. I adjusted it and it was good after that. I recommend you check the fork stopper at least every oil change. You will have to remove your intake tube to access it. I dont know if there is a spec as to how the stopper should be adjusted. I personally put a playing card between the fork and stopper. Seems to work for me.
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Originally Posted by Protostar1
(Post 9301428)
I am frankly surprised then that this is my first issue with the stop! I may wait until Monday to contact SM and see what they say about the stop spec. When you say a playing card I assume you mean with the clutch out the card fits in between the stop and the fork, meaning right now the stop is prematurely stopping the fork and there is likely pressure on it?
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I believe the gap between the stopper and the fork is about 1/4".
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Seems excessive. Im thinking next time I will use a credit card as a gapper tool:D. That would be about 1/16"
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Originally Posted by wizzo 8
(Post 9301476)
Seems excessive. Im thinking next time I will use a credit card as a gapper tool:D. That would be about 1/16"
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You don't have to remove upper I/c pipe. Just the Air filter to turbo inlet pipe.
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Wow, glad I read this. So let me get this straight... I have to open the gap every so often on the clutch for stop? Otherwise my clutch will start slipping?
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Originally Posted by casper980
(Post 9301626)
Wow, glad I read this. So let me get this straight... I have to open the gap every so often on the clutch for stop? Otherwise my clutch will start slipping?
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Gap should not be credit card thin. 1/4" is a lot safer. That is too thin and you run the risk of the stopper riding on the fork and killing your thrust bearing (aka toasting your motor).
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Originally Posted by binh
(Post 9302267)
Gap should not be credit card thin. 1/4" is a lot safer. That is too thin and you run the risk of the stopper riding on the fork and killing your thrust bearing (aka toasting your motor).
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Originally Posted by Protostar1
(Post 9303013)
Am I at any risk for this right now? I plan to fix this asap but all the same, because I have never adjusted the fork, have I done any damage to my car?
mines adjusted very close, and i have zero issues.. adjust it to far out once and have fun dropping the trans and popping back on the wedge collar. |
why oh why did mitsu have to be weird and toss a pull style clutch in! *facepalm*
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I refuse to run the clutch stopper for all of these reasons. If you consistently manage to pop the clutch off, switch to a push style. I've been running the Exedy twin for a long long time and have yet to have issues like this. Hundreds of drag launches too boot
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Originally Posted by Boltz.
(Post 9303669)
I refuse to run the clutch stopper for all of these reasons. If you consistently manage to pop the clutch off, switch to a push style. I've been running the Exedy twin for a long long time and have yet to have issues like this. Hundreds of drag launches too boot
but i still have the stopper just in case anyways. in 3000 miles mine hasnt changed its gap yet. |
Hey all (again),
As a result of graduating from the college phase of my life I have still made no progress on this but have been easy on the car and it has been driving fine. I did snap a quick (craptastic iPhone) photo of the stop just to see if you guys thought anything else might be an issue. It is really hard to tell with the intake still in, but I am pretty sure the tip of the stop is holding the fork up. What concerns me is how the threaded shaft is riding on the fork boot. I occasionally have inconsistent starts in first gear and wonder if its possible the boot sometimes holds the fork up just a bit. All the same it seems like that boot will, or has, worn a hole. I will take the intake off hopefully soon and adjust to what seems to be a basic consensus of 1/4" gap. If you guys have any other recommendations of things to do to the stop while I have access to it, I am all ears. Here is a photo of the gap: http://i339.photobucket.com/albums/n...chForkStop.jpg EDIT: Let me know if that is too big... I figure bigger is better in this situation! |
Its hard to tell because you cant see the end of the adjustment rod. Maybe take a picture with a flashlight shining on the end of the rod. Also dont worry about the rubber getting rubbed on. It has no effect on clutch release or engagement of the clutch.
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Originally Posted by wizzo 8
(Post 9327106)
Its hard to tell because you cant see the end of the adjustment rod. Maybe take a picture with a flashlight shining on the end of the rod. Also dont worry about the rubber getting rubbed on. It has no effect on clutch release or engagement of the clutch.
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You are correct. It cant be that important though because that opening is a lot more if you convert to a push type clutch. The fork lever is taken out and 2 lines come out of that hole instead. Nothing to worry about.
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Em from STM posted on a different thread that the gap between the stopper and fork should be 1/8". I hope that helps.
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Hi guys,
This is an update to my Exedy Twin HD clutch issues. I have adjusted my fork stop 2 times now, with the prior gap quickly being eaten up requiring readjustment. After both adjustments, the clutch action and feel dramatically improved. It was a night and day difference, no noise, quick and easy take up on the clutch. However, after every adjustment, groaning noise and inconsistent engagement slowly returned. This is the case after the second adjustment, there is significant groaning during engagement and only about half of the time does the clutch engage smoothly. I thought that it simply need another adjustment and was being held up by the fork stop. Not the case this time... there still remains a ~1/8" gap. Though there may be some adjustment to be made in the pedal, in general, the shifts are smooth and the clutch appears to be fully disengaging. In addition, though I have not been beating on the car, there do not seem to be any slipping issues. So, any clue as to what the noise and engagement issues could be now that the fork stop gap has been fixed? |
The gap for the fork stopper should be between 1/8 and 1/4 inch. Its only there to keep it from going into the release position.
Hope that helps -Em |
What exactly are you guy's talking about? Where are you measuring this gap, and how do you adjust it?
Thanks. |
I am at about 1/8". My issue is that I am still having some groaning/ poor engagement issues with the fork stop adjusted properly.
The adjustment is through an aftermarket fork stop device installed on the clutch actuator. It simply has a threaded rod with lock nut to adjust. |
bump yo
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