Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Hi all,

I have an 06 Evo IX w/ 26000miles on the clock. I had an Exedy Twin HD purchased at and installed by Strictly Modified in January 2010 after my stock unit failed at around 16000 miles (probably 8k of that saw the 371awhp/340awtq I have now). I was driving from Chicago to Champaign after the car sat for 7 days and noticed the clutch is slipping a lot, at first slightly in 2nd, more in 3rd, and even more in 4th. In the past 6 months especially I have noticed a decent amount of noise in the clutch when first engaging at slow speeds, usually a groaning noise. The noise was often alleviated by running the clutch hard which lead me to believe the groaning and slightly uneven engagement was caused by some oxidation/ corrosion on the clutch or flywheel. As a result, when I noticed the slipping today on the highway, I followed up with some 3-6kRPM pulls in 4th gear repeatedly to try and "clean" the surface. Initially this worked and the clutch pulled cleanly. I later tried some short pulls from 3-4k in 5th again noting initial slipping but then it would grab smoothly on subsequent pulls. This worked until I tried another 4th gear pull to make sure all was well and it began to slip heavily and did not right itself. Upon exiting the highway, I tried to hammer the car a bit with as much WOT as I could but saw no slippage (I did not have much opportunity given speed limits however).

This clutch has only seen one track day and I am very gentle with my car on the street and horse around very little.

My questions are: is the clutch toast or is it possible its "dirty" or the pedal is perhaps not adjusted to allow full engagement (the pedal position has never been altered since install)? Does this sound like a possible fluid leak on the clutch?

Is 10k miles even remotely normal for an Exedy Twin HD? I was initially told to expect 20-40k out of this clutch and given I have not beat the clutch hardly at all, 10k is appalling. Could there have been installation error or could the clutch be defective?

The car is drivable for now and I am not worried about that, I am worried about spending another 1k+ for another clutch that only lasts 10k miles and offers no foreseeable benefits over my stock unit. Any help would be appreciated though please refrain from any generic slurs aimed at the Exedy Twin (or SM for that matter). Thanks!

wizzo 8

iTrader: (35)

Do you have a clutch fork stopper? If so it needs to be adjusted as the clutch wears out. If you dont the stopper will prevent the clutch from fully releasing causing the clutch to slip.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

Yes I do have a stop! That would be amazing if that were the issue... I believe I have the MAPerformance one installed. If I remember correctly its a set screw with a jam nut on it. I assume I can reach it from the engine bay? I am not looking at the car now, just wondering what mental state I need to be in to get this fixed... Also, how many turns would you recommend so that it still works as a stop but allows my clutch to grab better? Thanks a ton!

Boltz.

iTrader: (42)

Thats a huge problem with the clutch fork stop. You have to constantly adjust it to keep it optimized.

Have you adjust the pedal?

What you are experiencing is not normal. Are you good at driving stick? Do you slip the clutch a lot?

wizzo 8

iTrader: (35)

Yea this happened to me the after about 3 launches at the strip. I thought the clutch was done which is why my sig says with slipping clutch. After getting home I looked into it and found my stopper was holding the fork back. I adjusted it and it was good after that. I recommend you check the fork stopper at least every oil change. You will have to remove your intake tube to access it. I dont know if there is a spec as to how the stopper should be adjusted. I personally put a playing card between the fork and stopper. Seems to work for me.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

This is my first issue with slippage since this was installed. I have not adjusted the pedal at all. I would like to think I am good at driving stick as I have been driving manual for about 5 years and have quite a few track days under my belt (doesnt necessarily mean I am great at it though!) I slip the clutch very little in general.

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

I am frankly surprised then that this is my first issue with the stop! I may wait until Monday to contact SM and see what they say about the stop spec. When you say a playing card I assume you mean with the clutch out the card fits in between the stop and the fork, meaning right now the stop is prematurely stopping the fork and there is likely pressure on it?

wizzo 8

iTrader: (35)

Correct. With the card out there will be a gap the size of the card. May not be correct but like I said it works for me.

EVO KNVL

iTrader: (1)

I believe the gap between the stopper and the fork is about 1/4".

wizzo 8

iTrader: (35)

Seems excessive. Im thinking next time I will use a credit card as a gapper tool. That would be about 1/16"

Protostar1

iTrader: (4)

I dont beat the car enough to warrant the paper thin gap so I will go credit card or whatever SM says monday. Not really looking forward to removing the intake pipe... I have a short route and mini batt, any hope I can work around it?? I am going to give it a look now...

wizzo 8

iTrader: (35)

You don't have to remove upper I/c pipe. Just the Air filter to turbo inlet pipe.

casper980

iTrader: (6)

Wow, glad I read this. So let me get this straight... I have to open the gap every so often on the clutch for stop? Otherwise my clutch will start slipping?

wizzo 8

iTrader: (35)

You got it.

binh

iTrader: (40)

Gap should not be credit card thin. 1/4" is a lot safer. That is too thin and you run the risk of the stopper riding on the fork and killing your thrust bearing (aka toasting your motor).