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Exedy Twin Failure? Need Diagnosis Assistance...

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Old May 8, 2011 | 01:44 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by binh
Gap should not be credit card thin. 1/4" is a lot safer. That is too thin and you run the risk of the stopper riding on the fork and killing your thrust bearing (aka toasting your motor).
Am I at any risk for this right now? I plan to fix this asap but all the same, because I have never adjusted the fork, have I done any damage to my car?
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Old May 8, 2011 | 02:27 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Protostar1
Am I at any risk for this right now? I plan to fix this asap but all the same, because I have never adjusted the fork, have I done any damage to my car?
no idea what hes going on about.. but the only thing at risk is your clutch and tob.. if its not going to fully disengage due to the stopper adjustment being to close its just going to burn up the clutch plates only.

mines adjusted very close, and i have zero issues.. adjust it to far out once and have fun dropping the trans and popping back on the wedge collar.
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Old May 8, 2011 | 04:18 PM
  #18  
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why oh why did mitsu have to be weird and toss a pull style clutch in! *facepalm*
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Old May 8, 2011 | 07:58 PM
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I refuse to run the clutch stopper for all of these reasons. If you consistently manage to pop the clutch off, switch to a push style. I've been running the Exedy twin for a long long time and have yet to have issues like this. Hundreds of drag launches too boot
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Old May 8, 2011 | 07:59 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by Boltz.
I refuse to run the clutch stopper for all of these reasons. If you consistently manage to pop the clutch off, switch to a push style. I've been running the Exedy twin for a long long time and have yet to have issues like this. Hundreds of drag launches too boot
ive seen this also.. it helps to know how to adjust your clutch pedal properly

but i still have the stopper just in case anyways. in 3000 miles mine hasnt changed its gap yet.
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Old May 17, 2011 | 04:17 PM
  #21  
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Hey all (again),

As a result of graduating from the college phase of my life I have still made no progress on this but have been easy on the car and it has been driving fine. I did snap a quick (craptastic iPhone) photo of the stop just to see if you guys thought anything else might be an issue. It is really hard to tell with the intake still in, but I am pretty sure the tip of the stop is holding the fork up. What concerns me is how the threaded shaft is riding on the fork boot. I occasionally have inconsistent starts in first gear and wonder if its possible the boot sometimes holds the fork up just a bit. All the same it seems like that boot will, or has, worn a hole. I will take the intake off hopefully soon and adjust to what seems to be a basic consensus of 1/4" gap. If you guys have any other recommendations of things to do to the stop while I have access to it, I am all ears. Here is a photo of the gap:



EDIT: Let me know if that is too big... I figure bigger is better in this situation!
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Old May 17, 2011 | 05:12 PM
  #22  
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Its hard to tell because you cant see the end of the adjustment rod. Maybe take a picture with a flashlight shining on the end of the rod. Also dont worry about the rubber getting rubbed on. It has no effect on clutch release or engagement of the clutch.
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Old May 17, 2011 | 10:49 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by wizzo 8
Its hard to tell because you cant see the end of the adjustment rod. Maybe take a picture with a flashlight shining on the end of the rod. Also dont worry about the rubber getting rubbed on. It has no effect on clutch release or engagement of the clutch.
What exactly does the boot protect? I assume the boot keeps debris out of the inner workings of the clutch including the mating surface.
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Old May 18, 2011 | 03:57 PM
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You are correct. It cant be that important though because that opening is a lot more if you convert to a push type clutch. The fork lever is taken out and 2 lines come out of that hole instead. Nothing to worry about.
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Old Jun 1, 2011 | 06:39 AM
  #25  
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Em from STM posted on a different thread that the gap between the stopper and fork should be 1/8". I hope that helps.
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 07:16 PM
  #26  
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Hi guys,

This is an update to my Exedy Twin HD clutch issues. I have adjusted my fork stop 2 times now, with the prior gap quickly being eaten up requiring readjustment. After both adjustments, the clutch action and feel dramatically improved. It was a night and day difference, no noise, quick and easy take up on the clutch. However, after every adjustment, groaning noise and inconsistent engagement slowly returned.

This is the case after the second adjustment, there is significant groaning during engagement and only about half of the time does the clutch engage smoothly. I thought that it simply need another adjustment and was being held up by the fork stop. Not the case this time... there still remains a ~1/8" gap. Though there may be some adjustment to be made in the pedal, in general, the shifts are smooth and the clutch appears to be fully disengaging. In addition, though I have not been beating on the car, there do not seem to be any slipping issues. So, any clue as to what the noise and engagement issues could be now that the fork stop gap has been fixed?
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Old Jul 31, 2011 | 07:33 PM
  #27  
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The gap for the fork stopper should be between 1/8 and 1/4 inch. Its only there to keep it from going into the release position.

Hope that helps

-Em
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 12:53 AM
  #28  
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What exactly are you guy's talking about? Where are you measuring this gap, and how do you adjust it?
Thanks.
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Old Aug 1, 2011 | 07:34 PM
  #29  
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I am at about 1/8". My issue is that I am still having some groaning/ poor engagement issues with the fork stop adjusted properly.

The adjustment is through an aftermarket fork stop device installed on the clutch actuator. It simply has a threaded rod with lock nut to adjust.
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Old Aug 3, 2011 | 04:31 PM
  #30  
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bump yo
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