coolant pushing to overflow
 

coolant pushes to my overflow bottle ONLY after a WOT pull ..
doesnt smoke or
run bad or
have bubbles in coolant or
milky coolant or
milky oil

maybe the head lifting??

L19 studs cometic HG torqued to 100 lbs

coolant pressure test it holds pressure no leaks.. aany ideas?

just went to FF 6262 setup only at 33 psi now was at 40 on old setup w/o issues but w/ full size radiator.


any ideas? think the HG is just blown?

keep in mind he had it retuned by someone else that used my base maps but looks like he put to much timing in the car.. i pulled timing out alot of areas and tq shot up.. that tells me that the HG is taking a dump cause it was overtimed and spiked cylinder pressure..

now the HG is compromised and pushing coolant.. wouldn't you guys agree? the upper rad exploded on the dyno .. thats a good sign to much timing.. if it weren't for the L19 the head would of lifted up also im sure.

i dont want the other tuners named mention in here even if others know who it is.. keep it out please in respect for other tuner. all ill say is the state was beside oklahoma.

HG seems to be on its way out.
Do you have any leaks?


However, I have had a customer like this on a Nissan Sentra. We replaced both the radiator cap and thermostat and it seems fine after that. That was a year ago and his car is still fine. Just my 2cents (start small and work your way up)

I have noticed this too, after a hard pull the coolant in the overflow rised.

I was told the rise was normal, but to cruise around and then check the overflow again to see if the level went down.

I think a block test is in order.

How old is your rad cap btw?

tried 2 other caps to rule that out

so your saying to drive around some more giving the radiator time to SUCK the coolant back into the radiator?


also is the thermostat was bad wouldnt that result in the radiator NOT getting an flow?

This happened to me. I did all types of testing (compression, leak block, cooling system pressure test). It was the original radiator cap. It was bad. I ended up getting a 1.3 bar ralliart cap. Problem is fixed. I highly suggest do all the testing. Good luck.

i have swapped 2 diff caps... and one is 1.3 too

unless this half radiator is just ****

I've always known that higher psi rad caps can cause extra stress on cooling components, and can blow off rad hoses. Like in the OP's case. But Idk if he was on a stock cap or not.


Yeah a friend of mine that has some experience with this told me to try that out. Not sure if it's correct, but if it is I guess I passed. Lol.

A block test would be a good check, if performed right it will tell you if they're hydrocarbons getting into the coolant.


Ever have to top off the overflow?

no its always full and wonder if i keep doing pulls if it will overflow the overflow...

and i had the 1.3 cap on at the time of the dyno

How much does it rise past the fully warm level? Cause as coolant temp rises the overflow level can go up a tiny bit. And I notice mine goes up a little bit.

And that rad cap could of caused the rad hose to blow off, or like Tom said spiked cylinder pressure.

gauge doesnt move

and maybe i wouldnt notice it but i havent done more than one pull to see if it will overheat but i really dont want to lol

I didn't mean the temp gauge. I meant just cruising around until the car is fully warm, taking a look at the overflow level. Under boost the coolant temp rises, so the level in the overflow will rise. A tiny bit is normal.

mine will go from the LOW level all the way to the top of the bottle

going to try to re burp the system w/ the front end of the car in the air making sure there are no bubbles in the new coolant system... make a couple pulls watch coolant temps and then let it set to see if it SUCKS it back into the radiator the way it should..


any idea of what coolant temps are normal during a pull? in my logs i see around 212-220

to properly burp you need something like a lisle funnel. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24610-Sp.../dp/B001A4EAV0

i would stick with 1.1 bar rad cap also.