Yup that's the head studs I am using. Maps dog point head studs.
As for my tuner, I am using a very reputable tuner. I will ask him how much timing I have on my race gas map? Thanks guys for all your help. I guess only time will tell. I am so tired of fixing all my little issues at this point. I guess that's what I get when trying to build a race car by myself. Lol |
start off with the small easy fix's.... why assume you have a lifted head when you said so yourself that you have a cap that has over 80K miles of abuse?
also you told me that you were told a while back that your cap wasnt holding pressure this should have been replaced a while ago with a stock or aftermarket one. I put my money on this simple over looked part. btw he does more roll racing then drag racing (no track here) |
Originally Posted by tscompusa
(Post 10168598)
theres absolutely no need to run bigger then 1.1 bar (stock pressure) coolant cap.. unless the cars a time attack car or used heavily in endurance racing where it sees high RPM long periods of time.. then you can benefit from it since it will actually help cooling with the higher pressure ran in the system.
i think your tuners the problem.. to much timing maybe in the car or the boost control is not up to what it should be.. i dont know. 2.4's are very sensitive so you have to know what you're doing to keep them together at high boost / power levels. |
Originally Posted by shaggadelic
(Post 10170173)
start off with the small easy fix's.... why assume you have a lifted head when you said so yourself that you have a cap that has over 80K miles of abuse?
also you told me that you were told a while back that your cap wasnt holding pressure this should have been replaced a while ago with a stock or aftermarket one. I put my money on this simple over looked part. btw he does more roll racing then drag racing (no track here) now if it sticks closed then thats another story.. that can cause a lot of issues. now the question is this.. why is it pushing coolant past the cap? head lifting is caused by tune ussually whether its to much boost or what.. but somethings causing the head to lift and pressurize the coolant system and push the coolant. |
Originally Posted by Adam Brunson
(Post 10170999)
He is running a long rod 2.0. It's either a tuning issue, or a gasket/surface problem. H11 and L19 are both the same style of head stud, bulkier and made out of tool steel.
|
That is correct.
|
I have the same coolant loss problem. Losing it from overflow jug, did a compression test and had about 160 on all cylinders. Still havent solved the problem
|
I bought a new radiator cap, and it seemed to fix the problem for now.
|
the overflow bottle, or expansion tank, is designed to compensate for expansion of coolant when it heats up. Therefore, you should not necessarily be alarmed if the coolant level rises in the expansion tank. Mine typically rises ~3/4" when warm and when it cools down it returns to normal.
|
Mine didn't rise 3/4. Mine filled up to the top after 2 pulls. I put a new radiator cap and now it works fine
Originally Posted by 240Z TwinTurbo
(Post 10295716)
the overflow bottle, or expansion tank, is designed to compensate for expansion of coolant when it heats up. Therefore, you should not necessarily be alarmed if the coolant level rises in the expansion tank. Mine typically rises ~3/4" when warm and when it cools down it returns to normal.
|
I have a similar issue, just ordered a cap. Hope that fixes it, as it did for you. :(
Although it is not as much after pulls, mostly just after long trips... |
Let us know if it fixes your problem?
Originally Posted by TeachersEvo
(Post 10327668)
I have a similar issue, just ordered a cap. Hope that fixes it, as it did for you. :(
Although it is not as much after pulls, mostly just after long trips... |
If it is a closed loop system, how could atmospheric pressure air be introduced into a pressurized liquid loop. I'm a process operator and this kind of stuff is what I see day to day. Think about it. You have a liquid in a closed loop being overpressured by another source of energy......
1) the glycol expansion theory could hold up only if you were to do the same test vs. distilled water and see if the level of distilled water doesn't rise. 2)radiator fluid is a ethylyne glycol/water mixture. it expands to some degree but not as much people think when its under pressure. |
I don't know what to tell you. I am not a process operator, but it worked for me. I am not an expert on this subject but wouldn't the water pump have anything to do with the movement of the coolant? I mean the harder and faster I push the car, doesn't the water pump increase in speed also? Wouldn't that create some pressure?
Originally Posted by jpVIII
(Post 10387650)
If it is a closed loop system, how could atmospheric pressure air be introduced into a pressurized liquid loop. I'm a process operator and this kind of stuff is what I see day to day. Think about it. You have a liquid in a closed loop being overpressured by another source of energy......
1) the glycol expansion theory could hold up only if you were to do the same test vs. distilled water and see if the level of distilled water doesn't rise. 2)radiator fluid is a ethylyne glycol/water mixture. it expands to some degree but not as much people think when its under pressure. |
Originally Posted by ta ace
(Post 10007130)
coolant pushes to my overflow bottle ONLY after a WOT pull ..
doesnt smoke or run bad or have bubbles in coolant or milky coolant or milky oil maybe the head lifting?? L19 studs cometic HG torqued to 100 lbs coolant pressure test it holds pressure no leaks.. aany ideas? just went to FF 6262 setup only at 33 psi now was at 40 on old setup w/o issues but w/ full size radiator. any ideas? think the HG is just blown? |
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 10:11 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands