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-   -   Hard to get into gear when cold... how to fix it? (https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-engine-turbo-drivetrain/728708-hard-get-into-gear-when-cold-how-fix.html)

Z_Lancer_Man May 11, 2016 10:16 PM

Hard to get into gear when cold... how to fix it?
 
So I need some help diagnosing this problem. After significant research on evom and the internet, I've tried all the "easy" stuff. Before I start trying more expensive options, I wanted to see what others would suggest given my symptoms.

My Setup
  • 2006 Evo 9 GSR
  • ~150,000 miles
  • Kept in garage every night
  • Clutchmasters FX100: 05106-HD00 Single Disk clutch installed 08/2011

Issue
  • When the car/tranny is cold, I can't get it into any gear. I push the shifter, but the tranny won't go into gear.
  • While trying to push it into gear, the car will start to move forward or backward, depending on the gear.
  • I can shift through all the gears when the car is off.
  • If I start the car with it in gear, it will lunge/lurch forward severely.
  • * If I let the car warmup for >5 minutes, it seems to be easier to get into gear.
  • * If I pump the clutch pedal 5-6 times, all the way, while trying to put into gear, most of the time it will go into gear (this is more effective if the car is warmed up).
  • Once I'm driving, the car shifts into the other gears ok.

What I've Tried
  • Looked at clutch through all 3 inspection ports in housing. Apart from dust from 5 years of use, it appeared fine. No damage was seen, no broken parts/pieces, etc.
  • Drained tranny oil and replaced with new, Amsoil 75W90
  • Adjusted clutch pedal (moved engagement much higher)
  • Replaced brake fluid with new DOT4 fluid
  • Replaced the upper, OEM, rubber section of clutch line with braided stainless section.
  • Removed restrictor from slave cylinder
  • Replaced OEM bleed valve with aftermarker one-way speed bleeder valve (so I can bleed the line by myself)
  • Bled clutch line for air
  • With someone pushing on clutch pedal, watched the fork motion from the slave cylinder. It appears to be moving fully.

What To Try Next?
  • Replace the slave cylinder? The clutch pedal is not spongy/soft, and its not leaking fluid...
  • Replace/rebuild master cylinder? The car is 10 years old and has some miles. Are some seals wearing out?
  • Crack open bell housing for fork and/or clutch replacement? Could the TOB be going bad? I know the fork is cast iron, so it can't bend/need replacement

Any other thoughts/ideas of what to try?

As always, thank you in advance for the help {thumbup}

Biggiesacks May 12, 2016 06:50 AM

have you tried double clutching? If that works you probably have worn out synchros. The moving while trying to get in gear with the clutch pressed, even after adjusting it, seems like a pretty big warning sign though, you might have to crack the thing open to see whats going on.

Z_Lancer_Man May 12, 2016 09:58 AM


Originally Posted by Biggiesacks (Post 11615363)
have you tried double clutching? If that works you probably have worn out synchros. The moving while trying to get in gear with the clutch pressed, even after adjusting it, seems like a pretty big warning sign though, you might have to crack the thing open to see whats going on.

I would have thought that if the synchros are failing, I would have more general shifting problems in all gears, not just when I'm starting... I am thinking though I may need to just open up the tranny. I read last night that it could be a broken spring on the clutch disc.

GTijoejoe May 13, 2016 05:40 AM

Do you have any strange feeling in the clutch pedal during stroking?

Curious if you may have a cracked clutch pedal?

I've seen some posts about this, could prevent your clutch from disengaging fully?

otherwise, no clue.
Usually, when you get into one gear you can get in all without the engine on and clutch depressed.

Last result is to rebuild the trans or look at the shift fork.

Z_Lancer_Man May 13, 2016 08:51 AM


Originally Posted by GTijoejoe (Post 11615820)
Do you have any strange feeling in the clutch pedal during stroking?

Curious if you may have a cracked clutch pedal?

I've seen some posts about this, could prevent your clutch from disengaging fully?

otherwise, no clue.
Usually, when you get into one gear you can get in all without the engine on and clutch depressed.

Last result is to rebuild the trans or look at the shift fork.

Clutch pedal feels solid and good. Haven't noticed any change in feel recently or over the years since the clutch was first installed. As we have a cast clutch fork, all it can do it crack/snap - can't bend. It's possible it's cracked, but wouldn't be able to tell without taking the bell housing off....which is looking like this is more of a necessity now.... :(

Biggiesacks May 13, 2016 09:04 AM

I would give the clutch pedal adjustment one more try before ripping off the trans. Do the "Clutch Reality Check" from this site

http://www.teamrip.com/clutch_pedal_...ment_info.html

Z_Lancer_Man May 13, 2016 09:33 AM


Originally Posted by Biggiesacks (Post 11615919)
I would give the clutch pedal adjustment one more try before ripping off the trans. Do the "Clutch Reality Check" from this site

http://www.teamrip.com/clutch_pedal_...ment_info.html

That's an excellent link - gives me some more (cheap/free) things I can try before I take more drastic steps. I'll try readjusting the pedal and then I'll get the car off the ground to check clutch engagement. Thanks for the link! {thumbup}

LetsGetThisDone May 13, 2016 09:54 AM

I was also about to suggest clutch pedal adjustment but you say you've already tried that.


How many miles are the clutch? It may just be time for a new one, or there may be something causing the disc to hang up and you can't see it through inspection ports.

barneyb May 13, 2016 02:04 PM

The only way the car can move when shifting from neutral to any gear is if the clutch is not disengaged.

SW20Mike May 14, 2016 09:21 AM


My car had the exact problem you are having, still does but not nearly as bad as before I did the adjustment from Jack's transmission. My problem started with me getting my trans rebuilt and a CC stage 2 clutch put in. When I'd roll to a stop or start the car, put the car in neutral and let the clutch pedal up the problem would be apparent. Trying to put the car back into gear it would resist, the car would lurch forward. I replaced the clutch master and slave, bled the system, and still did it. Adjusting the clutch per the video made it much easier to get into gear. Sometimes it will still do it, but not nearly as often or as difficult to get into gear. Blipping the throttle before putting the car into gear sometimes helps too, maybe it can help you. I'd definitely recommend adjusting your clutch per the video though, should help out.

Mobsters May 17, 2016 08:52 PM

Got same symptoms when i got my first evo V last year. Next to impossible to get in gear when cold and standstill, once warm and moving no problems. Car shut off, all gears worked fine. When started cluth down, gear in car would jump little foward. Changed master clutch sylincer, no effect, bleeded, adjusted no effect.

Pulled tranny and found these.

Got new flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. No more problems.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...7b27ca8519.jpg

Spring damage


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...34a40c4bab.jpg

Rounded bolts and heat marks


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...a5cae53402.jpg

Z_Lancer_Man May 18, 2016 01:20 AM


Originally Posted by SW20Mike (Post 11616281)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYJxQyjIhUw

My car had the exact problem you are having, still does but not nearly as bad as before I did the adjustment from Jack's transmission. My problem started with me getting my trans rebuilt and a CC stage 2 clutch put in. When I'd roll to a stop or start the car, put the car in neutral and let the clutch pedal up the problem would be apparent. Trying to put the car back into gear it would resist, the car would lurch forward. I replaced the clutch master and slave, bled the system, and still did it. Adjusting the clutch per the video made it much easier to get into gear. Sometimes it will still do it, but not nearly as often or as difficult to get into gear. Blipping the throttle before putting the car into gear sometimes helps too, maybe it can help you. I'd definitely recommend adjusting your clutch per the video though, should help out.

Great video and I'll definitely give this a try. Thanks for posting the video!

Z_Lancer_Man May 18, 2016 01:23 AM


Originally Posted by Mobsters (Post 11617672)
Got same symptoms when i got my first evo V last year. Next to impossible to get in gear when cold and standstill, once warm and moving no problems. Car shut off, all gears worked fine. When started cluth down, gear in car would jump little foward. Changed master clutch sylincer, no effect, bleeded, adjusted no effect.

Pulled tranny and found these.

Got new flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. No more problems.

Ouch! But glad you were able to root cause it. I'm going to give the above adjustment one last chance and see if that fixes my issue. Otherwise I'll just pull the transmission as well. The clutch is 5 years old and has > 72,000 miles on it... it could be that something also finally broke. I know I still have the stock flywheel in there.

Z_Lancer_Man May 20, 2016 03:39 PM

UPDATE:

So I followed Jack's video and adjusted my clutch last night. Unfortunately it didn't help - the car still has issues getting into gear when cold. Looks like I've exhausted all "easy" options and am only left with removing the transmission and checking out the clutch disc and pressure plate for any damage. Hopefully that helps put this to rest. I'll post back with a status update after I get into the housing...

Evo4_101 Jul 14, 2016 01:10 AM

seems to me that your pressure plate is bad, i had this issue, put in a new clutch and it was good


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