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So I need some help diagnosing this problem. After significant research on evom and the internet, I've tried all the "easy" stuff. Before I start trying more expensive options, I wanted to see what others would suggest given my symptoms.
My Setup
2006 Evo 9 GSR
~150,000 miles
Kept in garage every night
Clutchmasters FX100: 05106-HD00 Single Disk clutch installed 08/2011
Issue
When the car/tranny is cold, I can't get it into any gear. I push the shifter, but the tranny won't go into gear.
While trying to push it into gear, the car will start to move forward or backward, depending on the gear.
I can shift through all the gears when the car is off.
If I start the car with it in gear, it will lunge/lurch forward severely.
* If I let the car warmup for >5 minutes, it seems to be easier to get into gear.
* If I pump the clutch pedal 5-6 times, all the way, while trying to put into gear, most of the time it will go into gear (this is more effective if the car is warmed up).
Once I'm driving, the car shifts into the other gears ok.
What I've Tried
Looked at clutch through all 3 inspection ports in housing. Apart from dust from 5 years of use, it appeared fine. No damage was seen, no broken parts/pieces, etc.
Drained tranny oil and replaced with new, Amsoil 75W90
Adjusted clutch pedal (moved engagement much higher)
Replaced brake fluid with new DOT4 fluid
Replaced the upper, OEM, rubber section of clutch line with braided stainless section.
Removed restrictor from slave cylinder
Replaced OEM bleed valve with aftermarker one-way speed bleeder valve (so I can bleed the line by myself)
Bled clutch line for air
With someone pushing on clutch pedal, watched the fork motion from the slave cylinder. It appears to be moving fully.
What To Try Next?
Replace the slave cylinder? The clutch pedal is not spongy/soft, and its not leaking fluid...
Replace/rebuild master cylinder? The car is 10 years old and has some miles. Are some seals wearing out?
Crack open bell housing for fork and/or clutch replacement? Could the TOB be going bad? I know the fork is cast iron, so it can't bend/need replacement
have you tried double clutching? If that works you probably have worn out synchros. The moving while trying to get in gear with the clutch pressed, even after adjusting it, seems like a pretty big warning sign though, you might have to crack the thing open to see whats going on.
have you tried double clutching? If that works you probably have worn out synchros. The moving while trying to get in gear with the clutch pressed, even after adjusting it, seems like a pretty big warning sign though, you might have to crack the thing open to see whats going on.
I would have thought that if the synchros are failing, I would have more general shifting problems in all gears, not just when I'm starting... I am thinking though I may need to just open up the tranny. I read last night that it could be a broken spring on the clutch disc.
Do you have any strange feeling in the clutch pedal during stroking?
Curious if you may have a cracked clutch pedal?
I've seen some posts about this, could prevent your clutch from disengaging fully?
otherwise, no clue.
Usually, when you get into one gear you can get in all without the engine on and clutch depressed.
Last result is to rebuild the trans or look at the shift fork.
Clutch pedal feels solid and good. Haven't noticed any change in feel recently or over the years since the clutch was first installed. As we have a cast clutch fork, all it can do it crack/snap - can't bend. It's possible it's cracked, but wouldn't be able to tell without taking the bell housing off....which is looking like this is more of a necessity now....
That's an excellent link - gives me some more (cheap/free) things I can try before I take more drastic steps. I'll try readjusting the pedal and then I'll get the car off the ground to check clutch engagement. Thanks for the link!
I was also about to suggest clutch pedal adjustment but you say you've already tried that.
How many miles are the clutch? It may just be time for a new one, or there may be something causing the disc to hang up and you can't see it through inspection ports.
My car had the exact problem you are having, still does but not nearly as bad as before I did the adjustment from Jack's transmission. My problem started with me getting my trans rebuilt and a CC stage 2 clutch put in. When I'd roll to a stop or start the car, put the car in neutral and let the clutch pedal up the problem would be apparent. Trying to put the car back into gear it would resist, the car would lurch forward. I replaced the clutch master and slave, bled the system, and still did it. Adjusting the clutch per the video made it much easier to get into gear. Sometimes it will still do it, but not nearly as often or as difficult to get into gear. Blipping the throttle before putting the car into gear sometimes helps too, maybe it can help you. I'd definitely recommend adjusting your clutch per the video though, should help out.
Got same symptoms when i got my first evo V last year. Next to impossible to get in gear when cold and standstill, once warm and moving no problems. Car shut off, all gears worked fine. When started cluth down, gear in car would jump little foward. Changed master clutch sylincer, no effect, bleeded, adjusted no effect.
Pulled tranny and found these.
Got new flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. No more problems.
Spring damage
Rounded bolts and heat marks
Last edited by Mobsters; May 17, 2016 at 09:02 PM.
My car had the exact problem you are having, still does but not nearly as bad as before I did the adjustment from Jack's transmission. My problem started with me getting my trans rebuilt and a CC stage 2 clutch put in. When I'd roll to a stop or start the car, put the car in neutral and let the clutch pedal up the problem would be apparent. Trying to put the car back into gear it would resist, the car would lurch forward. I replaced the clutch master and slave, bled the system, and still did it. Adjusting the clutch per the video made it much easier to get into gear. Sometimes it will still do it, but not nearly as often or as difficult to get into gear. Blipping the throttle before putting the car into gear sometimes helps too, maybe it can help you. I'd definitely recommend adjusting your clutch per the video though, should help out.
Great video and I'll definitely give this a try. Thanks for posting the video!
Got same symptoms when i got my first evo V last year. Next to impossible to get in gear when cold and standstill, once warm and moving no problems. Car shut off, all gears worked fine. When started cluth down, gear in car would jump little foward. Changed master clutch sylincer, no effect, bleeded, adjusted no effect.
Pulled tranny and found these.
Got new flywheel, clutch and pressure plate. No more problems.
Ouch! But glad you were able to root cause it. I'm going to give the above adjustment one last chance and see if that fixes my issue. Otherwise I'll just pull the transmission as well. The clutch is 5 years old and has > 72,000 miles on it... it could be that something also finally broke. I know I still have the stock flywheel in there.
Last edited by Z_Lancer_Man; May 19, 2016 at 07:45 PM.
So I followed Jack's video and adjusted my clutch last night. Unfortunately it didn't help - the car still has issues getting into gear when cold. Looks like I've exhausted all "easy" options and am only left with removing the transmission and checking out the clutch disc and pressure plate for any damage. Hopefully that helps put this to rest. I'll post back with a status update after I get into the housing...
