Hit the drags today
I believe I had about 1.5 gallons of 91 and 2.0 of 103. Not sure what that ends up around. I had about a 1/4 tank of gas in the car.
I think my trap times are a little higher than the other guys mostly because I'm really close to sea level. Either that or maybe I shift a little better dunno.
I think my trap times are a little higher than the other guys mostly because I'm really close to sea level. Either that or maybe I shift a little better dunno.
I don't know what the 0-60 would be. I'll have to test that seperate somehow. I've never actually done a 0-60 test before but maybe I'll get one of those new G-Force Pro's I think they're called. Or G-Tech. I'm guessing based on Sport Compact Cars 0-60 I did it in 5.0 flat or 5.1. They did it in 5.0 with similar times. That's on the 1.8 60' launches and not the 2.0 sec launch. I'm estimating for myself since I actually missed 2nd gear. I think the car is pretty much on par with what mags are getting. Slight differences with drivers of course.
Originally posted by drmosh
Hmm... maybe you should drop to 2nd sooner.
You should try some double clutching, even with Synchros, makes the Synchros more tolerant.
Here's an article to help you out:
http://www.g-speed.com/pbh/double-clutch.html
Hmm... maybe you should drop to 2nd sooner.
You should try some double clutching, even with Synchros, makes the Synchros more tolerant.
Here's an article to help you out:
http://www.g-speed.com/pbh/double-clutch.html
Double clutching should only be used when your gearbox is damaged or the synchros aren't working to help get the stick in gear. It should never be used as a method to gain speed or improve time in any form of racing. Simply because it won't. After you read the description of double clutching you will see why it's a waste of time.
Double clutching basically is that. You depress the clutch to put it in neutral then release. Depress the clutch again then shift into gear. The reason it came up is because someone thought that with my having troubles shifting into 2nd under load I should try to double clutch to help get it in gear. In reality it would be faster and easier to just keep the clutch down until the damn stick went in. Unless of course it just simply won't let it in in which case you can try a double clutch to see if it helps. Even Sport Compact Car talks about it. They basically say it's only necessary when the synchros are worn out or if you're trying to engage into 1st gear at speed.
Double clutching basically is that. You depress the clutch to put it in neutral then release. Depress the clutch again then shift into gear. The reason it came up is because someone thought that with my having troubles shifting into 2nd under load I should try to double clutch to help get it in gear. In reality it would be faster and easier to just keep the clutch down until the damn stick went in. Unless of course it just simply won't let it in in which case you can try a double clutch to see if it helps. Even Sport Compact Car talks about it. They basically say it's only necessary when the synchros are worn out or if you're trying to engage into 1st gear at speed.
Re: Hit the drags today
Originally posted by Evilution
My big gripe with the car is the damn gearbox.
My big gripe with the car is the damn gearbox.
If you want to learn how to shift then get an old car and beat the hell outta that, cause you don't want to find out the hard way how much it's going to cost to rebuild your trans and get a new flywheel.
FYI - to properly launch an AWD car with a turbo is to get the rpms steady @ your launch then slip the clutch instead of dumping it. Once it starts to roll then release the clutch. Don't worry about boost. It will come on instantly. If you want boost at launch then inject CO2 into the system and that will spool the turbo with boost. WARNING: your clutch won't like you much and the gear box will eventually get very sloppy. Especially if you're very hard on the gear changes.
Thanks for that description of double clutching! Ya, I can't see why anyone would want to do that if their synchros are working properly.
Someone also mentioned keeping the gas pedal to the floor the whole way down the strip even when shifting, how can you do that and not bump off of the rev limiter? I know you'd have to shift real fast, but I wouldn't think you could shift fast enough before the engine would bounce off the limiter--I tried it once bascially on accident and couldn't get it into gear before the rpms were to high and hit the rev limiter. When I'm doing a full throttle run, I just take my foot most of the way off the gas and shift like normal, but of course doing it as fast as possible
Someone also mentioned keeping the gas pedal to the floor the whole way down the strip even when shifting, how can you do that and not bump off of the rev limiter? I know you'd have to shift real fast, but I wouldn't think you could shift fast enough before the engine would bounce off the limiter--I tried it once bascially on accident and couldn't get it into gear before the rpms were to high and hit the rev limiter. When I'm doing a full throttle run, I just take my foot most of the way off the gas and shift like normal, but of course doing it as fast as possible
Originally posted by VOLSBimmer
Thanks for that description of double clutching! Ya, I can't see why anyone would want to do that if their synchros are working properly.
Someone also mentioned keeping the gas pedal to the floor the whole way down the strip even when shifting, how can you do that and not bump off of the rev limiter? I know you'd have to shift real fast, but I wouldn't think you could shift fast enough before the engine would bounce off the limiter--I tried it once bascially on accident and couldn't get it into gear before the rpms were to high and hit the rev limiter. When I'm doing a full throttle run, I just take my foot most of the way off the gas and shift like normal, but of course doing it as fast as possible
Thanks for that description of double clutching! Ya, I can't see why anyone would want to do that if their synchros are working properly.
Someone also mentioned keeping the gas pedal to the floor the whole way down the strip even when shifting, how can you do that and not bump off of the rev limiter? I know you'd have to shift real fast, but I wouldn't think you could shift fast enough before the engine would bounce off the limiter--I tried it once bascially on accident and couldn't get it into gear before the rpms were to high and hit the rev limiter. When I'm doing a full throttle run, I just take my foot most of the way off the gas and shift like normal, but of course doing it as fast as possible
I'm really not sure when it's activating in auto but I left it in auto the whole time. I'm positive it's working though cuz I checked my reservoir today and it's close to empty
BTW just so everyone knows the reservoir in the trunk is NOT for the IC spray. Don't look at that thinking you're full. There's a fluid res. in the engine bay in front of the battery that's for your IC spray. I checked it today and it's almost empty after some hard road driving and a day at the track. I guess it's working.
BTW just so everyone knows the reservoir in the trunk is NOT for the IC spray. Don't look at that thinking you're full. There's a fluid res. in the engine bay in front of the battery that's for your IC spray. I checked it today and it's almost empty after some hard road driving and a day at the track. I guess it's working.
Originally posted by drmosh
Yeah, I would say shift sooner, don't take it to redline, you are not optimizing boost then, shift at the top of the boost curve should net you better times. Not to mention close to redline the synchros may not be as efficient.
Yeah, I would say shift sooner, don't take it to redline, you are not optimizing boost then, shift at the top of the boost curve should net you better times. Not to mention close to redline the synchros may not be as efficient.




