what power mod is next????
seems like everybody focuses on power only. that's the honda way to mod cars. here are my suggestions for you:
1) Clutch-weakest evo part. ATS twin disk. the last clutch you will ever have to buy
i would also get a short shifter, shifter bushing, stainless lines, & a HKS Kansai final drive kit for more speed in each gear. final drive ratio is 4.111:1
2) Brakes-if you haven't already, get rid of those weak stock pads & rotors. get a nice set of Project MU NS pads with SCR Pro rotors, stainless lines, & ATE super blue or Motul 600 brake fluid. pick up a master cylinder brace also. there will be less noise & dust.
3) Suspension-slap on a lower subframe brace, fender braces, stronger front strut tower brace (stock one flexes), rear strut tower brace, front & rear sway bars with rear endlinks, RS trunk bar with Garage HRS braces to connect trunk bar to rear strut tower. if you can afford coilovers, get a nice set of JIC's, Zeal's, K-One's, Aragosta's, or Rocket Dancers along with a set of Nagisa Auto adjustable rear control arms, light wheels & sticky tires (100 treadwear or lower). get your corner balanced & you will be able to pull a minimum of 1.05G's on the skidpad guaranteed.
4) Engine-cams are nice but i would just get the Works 269's. alot of torque & easy on the idle. just to be on the safe side, i would also do cam gears, valve springs, valve guides, lifters, Ti retainers, head gasket, pistons, rods, kevlar timing belt, & head bolts. some might say overkill, but you will have a fully built head to rev to 9K rpm all day long. do not get an O2 housing from ebay. get the largest inside diameter one u can find (Mines Japan). i would also get some motor/tranny mounts, engine damper, radiator, silicone radiator hoses, 1.5 bar radiator cap, Ralliart low temp thermostat, & change all your fluids to Royal Purple.
list may seem excessive, but it will keep your car as complete as a stock evo which VERY FEW people have done with their cars...
1) Clutch-weakest evo part. ATS twin disk. the last clutch you will ever have to buy
i would also get a short shifter, shifter bushing, stainless lines, & a HKS Kansai final drive kit for more speed in each gear. final drive ratio is 4.111:1
2) Brakes-if you haven't already, get rid of those weak stock pads & rotors. get a nice set of Project MU NS pads with SCR Pro rotors, stainless lines, & ATE super blue or Motul 600 brake fluid. pick up a master cylinder brace also. there will be less noise & dust.
3) Suspension-slap on a lower subframe brace, fender braces, stronger front strut tower brace (stock one flexes), rear strut tower brace, front & rear sway bars with rear endlinks, RS trunk bar with Garage HRS braces to connect trunk bar to rear strut tower. if you can afford coilovers, get a nice set of JIC's, Zeal's, K-One's, Aragosta's, or Rocket Dancers along with a set of Nagisa Auto adjustable rear control arms, light wheels & sticky tires (100 treadwear or lower). get your corner balanced & you will be able to pull a minimum of 1.05G's on the skidpad guaranteed.
4) Engine-cams are nice but i would just get the Works 269's. alot of torque & easy on the idle. just to be on the safe side, i would also do cam gears, valve springs, valve guides, lifters, Ti retainers, head gasket, pistons, rods, kevlar timing belt, & head bolts. some might say overkill, but you will have a fully built head to rev to 9K rpm all day long. do not get an O2 housing from ebay. get the largest inside diameter one u can find (Mines Japan). i would also get some motor/tranny mounts, engine damper, radiator, silicone radiator hoses, 1.5 bar radiator cap, Ralliart low temp thermostat, & change all your fluids to Royal Purple.
list may seem excessive, but it will keep your car as complete as a stock evo which VERY FEW people have done with their cars...
That's definitely excessive and too expensive for a regular daily driven car. I don't understand how you can give out so much info like that, yet your own cars are so weak and basic. None of that stuff you suggested is helpful to him.
just get cams...hks 264's. They have the least overlap/duration and give good low-mid range grunt. There are a few people with 264's in cali who passed the smog test with flying colors, as long as you have the stock cat on.
thanks for the replies, thinking about doing a o2 housing, with the stock exhaust manifold getting a extrude hone treatment for better flow, maybe cams and a nissei intercooler.. but first will get car on a dyno and go from there..
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




