p0117- need help
#17
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now, do you just unplug, put the new sensor on there?
I guess I have to go get one to see how they attach.
I hope it's just that sensor acting up funky....
I guess I have to go get one to see how they attach.
I hope it's just that sensor acting up funky....
#19
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They're $38 and suprisingly enough, they are in stock!
Thanks ttp.
Looks like they screw in.
i'm going to pick them up tomorrow and see how they work. i've already got the assembly pictures for it.
if this doesn't work, man, I don't know what to do. This isn't a very common problem....
Thanks ttp.
Looks like they screw in.
i'm going to pick them up tomorrow and see how they work. i've already got the assembly pictures for it.
if this doesn't work, man, I don't know what to do. This isn't a very common problem....
Last edited by forbidden color; Mar 6, 2006 at 02:37 PM.
#20
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Just want to get you a update on this for the future users.
Need to make a correction on the TTP's helping:
The one it's pictured above is a coolant sensor but not the right one.
That one with a single pin inside the plug is for your gauge inside the Tach assembly.
Now the one that you want is 2 pin plug, looks exactly the same as the smaller 1 pin plug sensor.
I'll try to put the part number up shortly.
Right behind that one, there is another sensor. You need to change that one. That's the second coolant sensor that works in conjunction with the controller unit (ECU).
It's a fairely easy job to perform. You need a deep socket, (i forgot the size), and you just have to pry it in through all the hoses and wires to get to it and turn.
It comes out pretty easy, but you need to let your car cooled down, so the radiator fluid could settle down a bit.
Some of it drained but I had a little cup underneath it to catch it.
After I put the sensor in, reset the ECU, and everything worked like a charm.
After so many hours of researching, basically the temp sensor will feed the ECU with an electric voltage that ECU determines to take action. When I tap that with ground, it sent too high of a voltage to the sensor, shorting it out.
The car ran like crap because the temp. sensor is one of the major self-check (15sec) diagnostic that ECU performs and if this is wrong, it'll turn the fan on (thinking your car is on fire) and dump a lot of fuel to save itself. Also, it'll try to stall the engine out, preventing it from melt down.
From few other researches, the OBDII ECU has many diagnostic performance it goes through within that 15 seconds or faster as soon as you turn your engine on.
I can't mention all of them, but it's pretty interesting some of the functions that can be determined in such a short time.
So if your car acts up in the first 5 seconds or so, just turn the car off. Pull the code (buy a code reader, it's only $70 or so and I'm very glad I got one).
This could save or break your car in a long run.
So the changing out the sensor worked. Good thing was that I could drive the car, because I had my wideband monitoring everything, make sure it wasn't running too rich or lean. That really saved me.
Need to make a correction on the TTP's helping:
The one it's pictured above is a coolant sensor but not the right one.
That one with a single pin inside the plug is for your gauge inside the Tach assembly.
Now the one that you want is 2 pin plug, looks exactly the same as the smaller 1 pin plug sensor.
I'll try to put the part number up shortly.
Right behind that one, there is another sensor. You need to change that one. That's the second coolant sensor that works in conjunction with the controller unit (ECU).
It's a fairely easy job to perform. You need a deep socket, (i forgot the size), and you just have to pry it in through all the hoses and wires to get to it and turn.
It comes out pretty easy, but you need to let your car cooled down, so the radiator fluid could settle down a bit.
Some of it drained but I had a little cup underneath it to catch it.
After I put the sensor in, reset the ECU, and everything worked like a charm.
After so many hours of researching, basically the temp sensor will feed the ECU with an electric voltage that ECU determines to take action. When I tap that with ground, it sent too high of a voltage to the sensor, shorting it out.
The car ran like crap because the temp. sensor is one of the major self-check (15sec) diagnostic that ECU performs and if this is wrong, it'll turn the fan on (thinking your car is on fire) and dump a lot of fuel to save itself. Also, it'll try to stall the engine out, preventing it from melt down.
From few other researches, the OBDII ECU has many diagnostic performance it goes through within that 15 seconds or faster as soon as you turn your engine on.
I can't mention all of them, but it's pretty interesting some of the functions that can be determined in such a short time.
So if your car acts up in the first 5 seconds or so, just turn the car off. Pull the code (buy a code reader, it's only $70 or so and I'm very glad I got one).
This could save or break your car in a long run.
So the changing out the sensor worked. Good thing was that I could drive the car, because I had my wideband monitoring everything, make sure it wasn't running too rich or lean. That really saved me.
#23
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Originally Posted by forbidden color
yeh, i've cleared it with my code clearer (orange thing) and then after that i've hard reset it by disconnecting the battery and leaving it for 30 minutes, then replug.
...
...
Orange thing, LOL sorry had to...
#24
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I don't remember the name for that thing. It's something funky.
It's funny, I research it before i bought it, but when I bought it, I just completely forgot the name of it.
I just call it the orange thing. It's a good name for it.
It's funny, I research it before i bought it, but when I bought it, I just completely forgot the name of it.
I just call it the orange thing. It's a good name for it.
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Originally Posted by TTP Engineering
It is likely the parts department order this one for you if you explained to them your issue. If your dash gauge is also ary, I would get the front sensor as well.
the first picture you posted are the one that goes to the dash to measure and display temperature.
The dealer actually corrected me on this, since I was going to order the front 1 pin sensor and the parts guy asked me which sensor I wanted. I described the problem, he gave me the rear 2 pin sensor.
Fix the problem.
thanks.
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