RPM sound different in 4th gear and misc ?'s
RPM sound different in 4th gear and misc ?'s
Hey guys,
Well I'm still new to the forums here, not new to mitsubishi's. I've had a handfull of DSM's and just sold my lasdt 2g and bought this Evo8 not too long ago. This is a long winded post of me wondering how this evo differs from what I'm used to, and I might as well try to put some posts since I'll be a "newbie" on this board forever unless I actually start posting.
I was pondering my latest installs and how the car is acting. First of all, please try to keep the flaming down, I'm certainly not going to get into a pissing war which I always see. Yes I've done some reading and searching, and I have 7 years of building/tuning with DSM's under my belt.
After having a drop in K&N for a few weeks I decided to throw in an open K&N cone with MAS adapter I had extra of (as I have a slew of 1g/2g eclipse/talon parts in my garage) Yes it made the intake sound louder. I put in a metal "injen" style pipe in place of the snorkel. (Surprisingly the 2g intakes are very very similar to the evo intakes.. go figure, same 4G63 flipped). Turbo screams even louder on spoolup which I expected. What I didn't expect is this: I can hear the RPM's pretty loud in 1-2-3-4 gear straight accel on the highway, but in 5th the tone drops really really low, as if I'm only shifting it at 3K or something. I've already noticed that the Evo seems to have a little more torque and a slightly different gear ratio. Ie in 5th gear travelling at 80mph cruise on the highway it is at 3300rpm instead of around 35/3600 on my 2g AWD Talon. I'm wondering if there is any truth to this, which may explain the big exhaust tone drop, or maybe just more notcieable in the evo compared to all the other DSM's I've driven. (I have a 3" megan cat-back until the dp is back in stock)
I also threw in a Greddy Type-S recirculated BOV (another leftover part) and tried the single spring right away since I've read so much about it. Boy I do not like that mod at all! The BOV spring was way too weak, even with the screw all the way in. After any lift of the throttle I got a squeak (annoying), and I found that the BOV woud pop open at full boost (still at 18.5psi with a Hallman Evo Boost controller) I pressure tested the system and it does indeed start to leak at 14psi and pop open at 17ish psi. I put back the double spring and re-adjusted. It sounds like it is operating exactly the same as on other 2g's and performs well. I get a little flutter at partial throttle, but I think again, just more noticeable with the open intake etc. One thing that I saw before I put the BOV is the partial drop in RPM with quick accel/let-off throttle situations. Example: Traffic starts moving fast and then suddenly stops. (I accel quick then depress the clutch again quick to stop) To me on DSMs it would be most likely because of lack of airflow and too rich of a condition ie BOV too tight and even with that slight bump it should leak enough to get air recirculated or of course a non-recirc BOV. Or a bad ISC/dirty throttle plate. I put on the stock BOV and it still does this a little bit. Is it just the intake, or the metal piping in combo?
Other related things: I have the tactrix cable and dropped (raised the a/f number) the fuel curve on the higher throttle 1/2 percent/unit to make the car run a little less rich (and to save from the soot on the bumper cover). So what do people do when they get a dynoflash tune etc with the intake? Does it only affect WOT airflow? I'm probably just going to get a map from Al as soon as I drop in my 255lph and get that darned DP.
Another question about the standing rev limit. I figured out with some help how to operate the studderbox settings. (on all my other DSM's the car did not have to have the clutch depressed). So funny thing is the first time I could free rev it without the clutch depressed, and thereafter I have to have it in. Anyways, I noticed that if I keep the pedal down and studderbox for maybe 15 secs or so it will all of a sudden disengage and free rev back up to rev limit. Why does the ECU do this? The car isn't rolling any bit.
Again, these are my little rants and raves. Please try to be constructive and not destructive about my comments. I do appreciate any/all responses.
Well I'm still new to the forums here, not new to mitsubishi's. I've had a handfull of DSM's and just sold my lasdt 2g and bought this Evo8 not too long ago. This is a long winded post of me wondering how this evo differs from what I'm used to, and I might as well try to put some posts since I'll be a "newbie" on this board forever unless I actually start posting.
I was pondering my latest installs and how the car is acting. First of all, please try to keep the flaming down, I'm certainly not going to get into a pissing war which I always see. Yes I've done some reading and searching, and I have 7 years of building/tuning with DSM's under my belt.
After having a drop in K&N for a few weeks I decided to throw in an open K&N cone with MAS adapter I had extra of (as I have a slew of 1g/2g eclipse/talon parts in my garage) Yes it made the intake sound louder. I put in a metal "injen" style pipe in place of the snorkel. (Surprisingly the 2g intakes are very very similar to the evo intakes.. go figure, same 4G63 flipped). Turbo screams even louder on spoolup which I expected. What I didn't expect is this: I can hear the RPM's pretty loud in 1-2-3-4 gear straight accel on the highway, but in 5th the tone drops really really low, as if I'm only shifting it at 3K or something. I've already noticed that the Evo seems to have a little more torque and a slightly different gear ratio. Ie in 5th gear travelling at 80mph cruise on the highway it is at 3300rpm instead of around 35/3600 on my 2g AWD Talon. I'm wondering if there is any truth to this, which may explain the big exhaust tone drop, or maybe just more notcieable in the evo compared to all the other DSM's I've driven. (I have a 3" megan cat-back until the dp is back in stock)
I also threw in a Greddy Type-S recirculated BOV (another leftover part) and tried the single spring right away since I've read so much about it. Boy I do not like that mod at all! The BOV spring was way too weak, even with the screw all the way in. After any lift of the throttle I got a squeak (annoying), and I found that the BOV woud pop open at full boost (still at 18.5psi with a Hallman Evo Boost controller) I pressure tested the system and it does indeed start to leak at 14psi and pop open at 17ish psi. I put back the double spring and re-adjusted. It sounds like it is operating exactly the same as on other 2g's and performs well. I get a little flutter at partial throttle, but I think again, just more noticeable with the open intake etc. One thing that I saw before I put the BOV is the partial drop in RPM with quick accel/let-off throttle situations. Example: Traffic starts moving fast and then suddenly stops. (I accel quick then depress the clutch again quick to stop) To me on DSMs it would be most likely because of lack of airflow and too rich of a condition ie BOV too tight and even with that slight bump it should leak enough to get air recirculated or of course a non-recirc BOV. Or a bad ISC/dirty throttle plate. I put on the stock BOV and it still does this a little bit. Is it just the intake, or the metal piping in combo?
Other related things: I have the tactrix cable and dropped (raised the a/f number) the fuel curve on the higher throttle 1/2 percent/unit to make the car run a little less rich (and to save from the soot on the bumper cover). So what do people do when they get a dynoflash tune etc with the intake? Does it only affect WOT airflow? I'm probably just going to get a map from Al as soon as I drop in my 255lph and get that darned DP.
Another question about the standing rev limit. I figured out with some help how to operate the studderbox settings. (on all my other DSM's the car did not have to have the clutch depressed). So funny thing is the first time I could free rev it without the clutch depressed, and thereafter I have to have it in. Anyways, I noticed that if I keep the pedal down and studderbox for maybe 15 secs or so it will all of a sudden disengage and free rev back up to rev limit. Why does the ECU do this? The car isn't rolling any bit.
Again, these are my little rants and raves. Please try to be constructive and not destructive about my comments. I do appreciate any/all responses.
