No gaskets for Buschur turboback flanged areas?
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From: Addison, IL
No gaskets for Buschur turboback flanged areas?
Hey guys...First off, I want to say that Buschur Racing and Warr have helped me so much through my mod path, and they've all been awesome. Thanks guys. Im waiting for my turboback exhaust (Catless Bullet
) and am going to install it within the next day or two.
Buschur said that there are no gaskets needed at all for the exhaust. I know that there are two spots in the exhaust that are flanged and at least two spots that are slip fit. They said the two flanged spots (O2 housing to downpipe and downpipe to test pipe) dont need gaskets. In every other exhaust Ive installed Ive ALWAYS used gaskets where there are flanges.
Im curious to know what you guys have done in regards to this with your Buschur turbobacks. I know that if they say none are needed, Im sure I wont put any. Im just curious to know if you guys have had any exhaust leaks when you dont use them? Also, has anyone put gaskets on them and has it worked fine with them too?
Thanks!
) and am going to install it within the next day or two.Buschur said that there are no gaskets needed at all for the exhaust. I know that there are two spots in the exhaust that are flanged and at least two spots that are slip fit. They said the two flanged spots (O2 housing to downpipe and downpipe to test pipe) dont need gaskets. In every other exhaust Ive installed Ive ALWAYS used gaskets where there are flanges.
Im curious to know what you guys have done in regards to this with your Buschur turbobacks. I know that if they say none are needed, Im sure I wont put any. Im just curious to know if you guys have had any exhaust leaks when you dont use them? Also, has anyone put gaskets on them and has it worked fine with them too?
Thanks!
Won't need one for the o2 to DP as I've told you, because the o2 outlet fits down inside the 2.5" opening at the top of the DP. You'll see what I mean. On the DP-to-TP, I re-used my stock gasket.
Good God, the Bullet sounds mean as hell. I didn't expect much difference from my Megan, but it sounds so much meaner and nastier. You can hear a hint of lope from my cams (couldn't before), and it gurgles like a V8 most of the time. At WOT, it instills fear in all track foes.
I'll have my comparison thread vs the Megan in terms of fitment, weight, power, sound, and looks here after my tranny gets rebuilt, because I can't dyno again until then.
Good God, the Bullet sounds mean as hell. I didn't expect much difference from my Megan, but it sounds so much meaner and nastier. You can hear a hint of lope from my cams (couldn't before), and it gurgles like a V8 most of the time. At WOT, it instills fear in all track foes.
I'll have my comparison thread vs the Megan in terms of fitment, weight, power, sound, and looks here after my tranny gets rebuilt, because I can't dyno again until then.
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Good stuff Warr. Yeah I remember our talk of course. Just wanted to see what others have done and their outcomes too. Good luck with that. Anybody have leaks without gaskets?
I think most people who complain about leaks with the exhaust experience them in the slip fit regions. This is due to them not clamping the band clamps hard enough.
In the flanged areas with or without a gasket you should be fine, as long as you torque the flange bolts enough. Remember to remove the donut gasket from the DP flange when you install the Buschur exhaust as well.
In the flanged areas with or without a gasket you should be fine, as long as you torque the flange bolts enough. Remember to remove the donut gasket from the DP flange when you install the Buschur exhaust as well.
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Gasket: I went ahead and created one. I bought a Mr. Gasket 3" 4-bolt gasket and cut it down. It may not have been necessary, but I was coming from a WRX with a slightly warped DP flange and it leaked...sounded terrible. For $3 and a couple of minutes with an Xacto knife, it was worth the assurance.
For the clamps: I think the real trick is to get the exhaust completely installed before tightening down the clamps. Get the pipe straight and clear of the driveshaft so that there's no banging of the exhaust. Then work your way from the front of the car to the back. This is because the rear has more flexibility to move around than the front, which is locked in place at the DP. But if you tighten the rear first, then work forward, you've lost that flexibility and it's harder to get good seals. At each joint, clamp one end in place, then push the joint together and tighten the second clamp bolt. And you have to tighten the clamp first to the pipe that fits inside, then clamp down on the outside pipe to make the seal.
Expect to spend a little more time working with this exhaust to get it aligned and tight than you would a flanged one, but the HP gains are well worth it.
For the clamps: I think the real trick is to get the exhaust completely installed before tightening down the clamps. Get the pipe straight and clear of the driveshaft so that there's no banging of the exhaust. Then work your way from the front of the car to the back. This is because the rear has more flexibility to move around than the front, which is locked in place at the DP. But if you tighten the rear first, then work forward, you've lost that flexibility and it's harder to get good seals. At each joint, clamp one end in place, then push the joint together and tighten the second clamp bolt. And you have to tighten the clamp first to the pipe that fits inside, then clamp down on the outside pipe to make the seal.
Expect to spend a little more time working with this exhaust to get it aligned and tight than you would a flanged one, but the HP gains are well worth it.
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From: Addison, IL
Originally Posted by Grog
Gasket: I went ahead and created one. I bought a Mr. Gasket 3" 4-bolt gasket and cut it down. It may not have been necessary, but I was coming from a WRX with a slightly warped DP flange and it leaked...sounded terrible. For $3 and a couple of minutes with an Xacto knife, it was worth the assurance.
For the clamps: I think the real trick is to get the exhaust completely installed before tightening down the clamps. Get the pipe straight and clear of the driveshaft so that there's no banging of the exhaust. Then work your way from the front of the car to the back. This is because the rear has more flexibility to move around than the front, which is locked in place at the DP. But if you tighten the rear first, then work forward, you've lost that flexibility and it's harder to get good seals. At each joint, clamp one end in place, then push the joint together and tighten the second clamp bolt. And you have to tighten the clamp first to the pipe that fits inside, then clamp down on the outside pipe to make the seal.
Expect to spend a little more time working with this exhaust to get it aligned and tight than you would a flanged one, but the HP gains are well worth it.
For the clamps: I think the real trick is to get the exhaust completely installed before tightening down the clamps. Get the pipe straight and clear of the driveshaft so that there's no banging of the exhaust. Then work your way from the front of the car to the back. This is because the rear has more flexibility to move around than the front, which is locked in place at the DP. But if you tighten the rear first, then work forward, you've lost that flexibility and it's harder to get good seals. At each joint, clamp one end in place, then push the joint together and tighten the second clamp bolt. And you have to tighten the clamp first to the pipe that fits inside, then clamp down on the outside pipe to make the seal.
Expect to spend a little more time working with this exhaust to get it aligned and tight than you would a flanged one, but the HP gains are well worth it.
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From: Addison, IL
Originally Posted by LoCo4
I was the same way when I got my Buschur D/P. Once you get under the car to install....it will all make sense.
Originally Posted by _EVOled_
Does the stock gasket fit cause its 3" or did you get an aftermarket?


