He summed it up for you. This is not normal. I launched a bunch of times and put over 52,000 on my stock clutch with over 344ft/lb of torque since 3500 miles.

Either you suck at driving or the installation is improper and the clutch is not adjusted properly at all. I would definitely remove the clutch restrictor for your new clutch and have a reputable shop do the install.

 

It feels maybe 10% or less heavier than the stock clutch. From what you wrote about the way you drive, I can guarantee you the twin disk will last longer than your car. Plus you can start launching the car once in a while and you will never have any clutch problems, specially with "only" 280whp - which is what I have right now.
Get the twin cerametalic the carbon twin is for track use only.

 

I've had my act clutch about 35k miles now and it still in good condition. I also did multiple launching, so I don't know if might be your car or the way you drive it.

 

Yeah just get an ACT and get it installed properly and youll be fine.

 

is no lift shifts the same as WOT shifts?

 

there is probably something wrong with the car that's causing that problem. I believe you are driving the car OK because I've had problems like that before. My EVO has had no problems with the stock clutch in 25K miles. My previous EVO needed a clutch in about 25K miles due to launching.

I've owned 2 cars in the past that had horrible clutch problems which were never solved One was a MG Midget and the other was a SAAB Sonnett. They were worked on by various mechanics without success......

Your EVO might have a problem that has not yet been identified and corrected. I don't blame you for wanting out. I'm getting tired of my EVO although it runs perfectly. It's just too harsh riding and a chore to drive. Performance is phenomenal, but as a daily driver it's not so good. I'm looking at various options. I'm considering trading for a Viggen and some cash.....

Oh yeah, stay away from the dual disk clutches, they suck for driveability. Don't believe what a bunch of racers tell you. If your car is modified very much, the off-on action of those competition clutches will get old in a hurry. Remember, a lot of guys here think that a car that barely idles and requires race car driver skills to drive around and stalls at every other red light, runs "better than stock"

 

i thought twin discs where bad for daily driving but they are not that bad a friend of mine has a cusco twin disc in his evo while my evo has the stock clutch and the only diff is that it grabs harder so you must give it more gas to go!
i have 15,000miles on my car and ive raced the hell out of it and my stock clutch is still holding fine i had some issues with my shifting but an engine damper and changing the tranny oil took care of that! also ive done multiple 7000rpm launches and my clutch is still holding!
my friend before using the twin disc cusco clutch had a twin disc carbon exedy that only lasted for 1000miles and 2launches the problem was that his clutch pedal wasnt adjusted properly it was to high!

 

I drove one overrated and loud in a not so good way. it is a 2007 S2000

 

I let the clutch engage before pressing the gas, sometimes even double clutching. clutch is usually engaged below 1500rpm

 

i'm thinking one of these.

1. if u dont replace ur flywheel it could be that. i thought my clutch was gone after 9k but i found out it was the flywheel that needed replacing.

2. you're not going through the correct break in period of the new clutches. clutches have break in periods too.

 

The clutches were all broken in correctly. As for the flywheel, the Exedy Hyper Single plates come with a flywheel. After the first exedy went I simply opted to put in a new disc and kept the existing flywheel, pressure plate and throwout bearing. Could be that one of those are going now. Also, my clutch always seems to end up engaging really high. It doesn't start out that way, but after a few months of having one installed, the pedal always comes up like 1/2 way before beginning to engage. Not sure if this could be the issue or why this always seems to happen, despite the fact that the pedal does not start out this way and I had it readusted a month after getting the second clutch installed.

 

I put 25k on my stocker and it still grabs just fine--I ****ed up pretty badly a few times and ended up burning clutch quite a bit. In other words, I think YOU need to learn how to drive stick.

 

Not that bad compared to what......


Well, that's exactly what I'm talking about . They are much harder to modulate and to drive than the stock clutch. I was trying to tell the guy not to go with those racing clutches because of the driveability issues

Well, you are a racer. For you the grabby clutch is probably a much better option. Congrats on your long lasting stock clutch


This is what I'm thinking. There must be some adjustment or installtion procedure that's not right. His clutches should last a lot longer than they are lasting. Specially since he takes good care of the car. I'm thinking that there was a problem with the car from the beginning and the techs who replaced the clutches never found and corrected the problem.......

 

Thank you for not automatically assuming that the clutch issues are due to driver error.

I suppose I can bring the car down to the dealer and ask them what they think about it. I don't have many other options at this point. Like I said before, it might have to do with the fact that the clutch pedal always seems to revert to catching really high (to the point that other people always comment on it.)

 

Automatic is the way to go. BMW 330, 335, 328 maybe.