Dex-cool will eat your water pump and intake gaskets after your warranty is up.

 

my evo likes budlight... i need to put it on a diet LOL

 

if you mix the anti-freeze and dex cool it will make your car waaaay faster. Don't forget to add AMS peformance sand into your oil.


But seriously only use green or the universal one that works with both if you still question it.

 

Never use dexcool, I have seen the damage it does to gm cooling systems firsthand. Toyota's red wouldn't hurt anything but you should stick with plain green stuff you can get at any parts store. I would mix it 40/60 antifreez to water unless you live in alaska or something. Then add a bottle of water wetter from redline. This will help the car run slightly cooler so no retune is necessary (that statement earlier was hilarious). I wouldn't worry about raising the boiling point to 276* because if the car is running anymore then 200-210* you have a much bigger problem.

 

Prior to my evo i had a Chevy truck that was a dex-cool disaster. Over the course of one year i had 9 pressure flushes and the system was still contaminated. radiator all hoses replaced. water pump replaced 2x.... Thank god i was still under warranty. My flushes went hand-in-hand with oil changes.

 

Someone please help me out here, but I just don't see how lowering the coolant temps would affect how the car ran. Actually what I can imagina is that the temps are lowered a few degrees and the car will run stronger..... I must be wrong, but help me to understand why???

 

Wha? Can you explain this? Even by running regular 50/50 mix with WaterWetter too??

 

Fyi

 

Does anybody ever undo the plug on the block? I always just ran water through and drained through the radiator.

 

The block plug releases coolant trapped in the block by the thermostat. Otherwise your just draining the radiator and not the cooling system. As far as your engine running cooler, your engine will never run cooler no matter what you put in it. The thermostat is set to open at a certain temperature and when the engine starts to drop past that temperature it closes so the engine won't get damaged.Run your engine without a thermostat and you'll never see that coolant temp needle move. Water wetter helps keep the temperature down so that on hot days or days that you run hard your cooling system won't heat soak (your thermostat will open less and your fans won't kick on as frequently). You will not have any issues running water wetter, but it is not an anti corrosive like coolant. Coolant will help prevent rust buildup and water wetter will not. Your best best is a mix between the two. Honestly I do not drive my car hard enough when its hot to use water wetter, but I do use it in my bike and it makes a huge difference.

 

Did you even read the Water Wetter info?? It absolutely IS an anticorrosive.

I believe after the engine is up to operating temperature the thermostat pretty much stays open. Even though the average temp of the coolant may not drop below the thermostat temp, local improvements in heat management in the head around the cumbustion chambers will reduce likelihood of hot spots and predetonation. That is one reason the IX head seems to be less knock prone - better cooling. Using Water Wetter will add to this. I use it in my race car with distilled water during the summer. I swap in antifreeze when I store it in the winter. . .

 

If you think the thermostat stays open then you need to do more research about your cooling system. Most people don't realize factory cooling systems can cool your engine way below what is optimal under normal driving conditions. Race cores just help with heatsoak. And water wetter is an aweful anti corrosive. It helps as compared to water but it doesn't compare to standard coolants. If you believe every label you see, then you could get 100 hp out of a fan. I did research on SAE standard cooling systems for a thermodynamics course and if you break down the aditives in water wetter and compare it to std. coolant you will see why std. coolant is a MUCH better anti corrosive.

 

When the thermostat is closed isn't coolant flow restricted to only the engine (the coolant in the radiator is not circulated)? Once this coolant gets heat soaked and up to temp the thermostat opens and then the coolant begins to circulate through the radiator to cool it down. If the thermostat were to stay closed the coolant in the closed loop system would have no way to expel heat and it would keep getting hotter and hotter until it boiled.

On a freezing winter day just driving down the highway the t-stat may open and close more often (actually, stay partially open to restrict flow), but on a hot day when you are at an autocross or open track day the think will be mostly open.

And yes, I do believe Redline more than I believe some chinese company selling a "supercharger" fan on ebay for $69.95. . .

 

Yes, the thermostat stays closed until the predtermined temperature is reached (I'll call it temperature A). When the coolant reaches temperature A, the thermostat opens and allows coolant to flow through the radiator until the temperature drops below temperature A and the thermostat closes, then the coolant is once again only flowing through the engine. This process keeps going on over and over again. My point is that your engine will never operate with coolant "cooler" than temperature A after warmup. Water wetter just allows superior cooling of the heatsoaked fluid. Also if you take out the thermostat your engine will never get to its normal coolant temperature under Normal driving conditions. Since there is nothing controlling the flow between the radiator and the engine block, the coolant will flow through the radiator and never heat up. Your more than welcome to say I'm wrong, but if you try it, you will see I am right.

 

I have never worried about using distilled water, is this recommended?

Where the hell do you get it?



Is this in response to JUST distilled and Water Wetter? ... or do you even mean with distilled water, water wetter, and antifreeze?