Could def be the 100 oct you got, but hard to tell. Also might be the sensor if its been acting weird on you...?

 

I'm pretty sure the sensor is fine since it's only been on the car about 2 months or so and it registers accurate readings at cruise and WOT. I've been noticing a lot of people with the Cosworth cams specifically experiencing these issues but I'm not sure if its coincidence or if the HKSs have the same symptoms.

 

i have one and it goes 3 dash lean at WOT, i think its the sensor, they say they go bad for no reason and if it was that lean for 3 gear pulls it would have blown.

i don't understand what changing the battery will do.

 

WOW 14.7 at WOT. That's scary

It's Normal. Mine also bounces around at idle, and jumps around slightly when crusing (14.5-15.1), which is also normal. As long as you don't see it go higher than say 11.5 or so at WOT, you're fine.

 

So i read through the thread and kinda concluded that uego is not very good...

All your guys' problems stem from lack of adequate tuning. And aftermarket intakes. And big injectors. And other things. If you don't have a custom tune your idle will fluctuate more than it should. Also it usually only happens at cold idle. Once the 02 sensor is warm you should be back around 14.7 I can't understand why uego wouldn't show the number at idle though , its range is what 10 to 16 or something? Not very good.

Also when you coast in gear your injectors shut off, that's the only time you should be seeing "---". It's just air flowing.

Battery thing, it's kinda funny you replaced the battery in hopes of curing idle problem, sorry Unhooking the battery resets fuel trims in ecu therefore changing fueling properties for just a little while. But then the trims go back where they were.

 

All good points. I also forgot to mention and cant remember if anyone else has metioned it, but if you have a wideband, let the car warm up a little first before mashing on it, if you have a wideband, the sensor will thank you for this and last longer. That is all.

 

Is there any way to test out the sensor to tell if it has gone bad, or do I just have to replace it to see? I have not had it for very long, maybe 3-4 months, but it used to work fine and now it doesn't.

 

The UEGO manual has a section on hooking up to hyperterminal on your laptop. It registers a list of voltages. And there should be a way to check for accuracy that way.

 

So do I possibly need to calibrate the gauge? or does it sound like a bad sensor?

 

Problem solved!!!!!, as it turns out it was the front o2 sensor that was throwing off the tune and causing it to knock. Could have also been an exhaust leak, idk. I installed a new manifold and o2 housing and made sure to tighten up everything. The o2 sensor finally threw a code so i changed that bad boy out and presto chango it is like a whole new car. The car is smoother and faster, and my UEGO gauge reads true and what its supposed to. I logged it and saw no more than 2 counts of knock (kinda cold out). Now the only problem is that my clutch is about to go...

 

Glad you figured it out. Mine just started a few days ago but it was my WB Sensor that went bad good thing i got an extra one when i got my AEM EMS

 

How many miles on that sensor?

 

it was the stock sensor (front sensor), and i'm at 43k

 

Bringing it back from the dead. so the car was in fact running too lean ha? Im currently having the same problem, three dashes across the gauge on idle. I'll look at my main o2 sensor tomorrow, guess im running lean too.

 

im too having the same problem. heres my story. ever since i can remember i thought the wb was suppose to read --- at idle. i have a honda that i turboed and put one on brand new 2 years ago out of the box and it read --- at idle. i bought my evo 2 years ago and it had one already installed and it too at idle reads ---. at cruise both cars read normal and under full boost. that is until now. i recently installed a vta o2 dump o2 housing on my evo 8 and replaced the cracked manifold. the afrs went leaner on wot to around 12.5. i do know there is an exhaust leak since the gasket i used is not divided and exhaust gas leaks out the dump constantly. but heres the kicker now my wideband seems to want to read a little better at idle it will read in the 17s sometimes dipping to 16s then back to full lean ---. if i cant figure this out or no one can help im going to assume aem gauges are just junk pieces of **** and get a new one. oh and my friends aem gauge is also reading --- at idle with no exhaust leaks and reads fine at wot on a talon tsi first gen. i have also tried upping the fuel to get it to read on idle with no luck. anyone know what the deal is?