Would i fit into a bride zeta III seat?
Yeah, the Zeta III should be just fine for you, honestly. I had a little extra space around the shoulders that may have been snugged up with the slightly smaller seat. But honestly, we're talking about incredibly slight differences between the Zeta III and the type-L, sometimes as small as 0.25". Unless you spent any real amount of time driving with both seats, I believe you may be hard pressed to find a real difference in feel.
The only thing I can really recommend is that you find a good set of harnesses. This seat was used in my old S13 auto-x/track car, and trying to use any sort of non-reclining racing seat with the stock restraint system seems pretty pointless. It can be a hassle (purchasing and installing a harness bar at the bare minimum, then fumbling with the harnesses every time you want to go anywhere), but it really is the only way to go.
Edit: Just wondering, are you buying these from another driver, or an internet company? Just be aware that there are A LOT of Bride knockoffs around these days, and if it seems too good to be true, it is.
The only thing I can really recommend is that you find a good set of harnesses. This seat was used in my old S13 auto-x/track car, and trying to use any sort of non-reclining racing seat with the stock restraint system seems pretty pointless. It can be a hassle (purchasing and installing a harness bar at the bare minimum, then fumbling with the harnesses every time you want to go anywhere), but it really is the only way to go.
Edit: Just wondering, are you buying these from another driver, or an internet company? Just be aware that there are A LOT of Bride knockoffs around these days, and if it seems too good to be true, it is.
i got a good source on them and they are the real thing, but just incase, how can you tell if they are the real thing for sure?
my next question is about using the oem seat belts, is that going to be ok? i dont want harnesses as i dont plan on running a full cage. ive seen countless threads on how its unsafe to run harnesses with just a harnessbar, so i am going to stay away from that.
Last edited by TwStDeVo; Sep 26, 2007 at 08:20 AM.
Yep, the standard size Zeta III is what I have in my Evo and we like them so much I just ordered another pair for my time attack 350Z. Plus, my Evo is my daily driver and I have a 60 mile round trip to work every day and have driven to California from Vegas in them a few times without any complaints.
Although I don't recommend running with the stock seat belts. I run an Autopower roll bar and some Prodrive harnesses.
Although I don't recommend running with the stock seat belts. I run an Autopower roll bar and some Prodrive harnesses.
Last edited by EgoKillerEVO; Sep 26, 2007 at 10:03 AM.
Just sat in one last night as I tuned a friends MR... The seat was pretty tight, but I'm 6', 36", 195 lbs. After about 5 min I got comfortable but It wouldnt be fun longer than a 2 hour drive. My butt wouldnt move if i wanted it too, but i wish it was more snug around my mid section. After sitting it a tight seat that holds you it made a new seat higher on the to-do mod list! lol. good luck!!!
i got a good source on them and they are the real thing, but just incase, how can you tell if they are the real thing for sure?
my next question is about using the oem seat belts, is that going to be ok? i dont want harnesses as i dont plan on running a full cage. ive seen countless threads on how its unsafe to run harnesses with just a harnessbar, so i am going to stay away from that.
my next question is about using the oem seat belts, is that going to be ok? i dont want harnesses as i dont plan on running a full cage. ive seen countless threads on how its unsafe to run harnesses with just a harnessbar, so i am going to stay away from that.
. http://www.tein.com/takata.htmlAnd as far as modifying the stock restraints to work with your new seat, all I can say is that I really don't recommend it. Quite a few engineering minds went into fine tuning it as it is, and your result may end up making your car more unsafe.
It's not always easy to spot fakes, since the seller may be using pictures of the real thing, but sending out fake seats. If you find a new Zeta III for less than $600/seat, it's most likely a fake. I've heard that the fakes can be decent, but I would seriously question their safety, especially since they aren't FIA approved. Keep this in mind if you shop for harnesses as well, since big names like Takata are being copied these days. I suppose that these parts are suitable for show cars, but if you plan on driving faster than, oh say, 45, I really can't recommend it.
If I can find the link, I'll post it, but I remember hearing about somebody's "Bride" seat snapping in two on a 90 MPH impact because of tension from the harness. That's exactly what it shouldn't be doing.
^^^i would definitely appreciate some help with the harness/seat belt situation, i definitely dont want to risk any safety at all, but at the same time i dont want a cage as i will probably have passengers at some point in the rear seats.
I received some advice a few years back that I probably some of the best I've heard since I started working on cars. "Never make your street car your race car."
However, like many people on here, I've violated this rule on quite a few occasions.
One thing I can say to help you out with this, is that it's possible to get anywhere from a 3-point to 7-point bolt-in cage from companies like Cusco. The nice thing about this is that you can add to the cage on track days, but leave out nearly all of the back half of the cage when you have passengers. Often times, you'll be able to install a cage without affecting the people sitting in the rear. In that case, I would highly recommend padding any bar that comes within proximity of your passengers, ESPECIALLY the one(s) running directly behind your seats. In all honesty, you'll probably have your Zeta on sliders, but there will very likely be only one good setting since the seat will not recline. This is basically going to fix the seating position of your passengers anyway, so an extra bar or two probably won't affect much.
And by the sound of it, you don't have many rear passengers, so this may not be a bad way to go. Referring back to the quote, if you choose to make your street car your race car, you'll have to make a lot of tradeoffs to make the vehicle suitable for both. I believe that this is the main reason that most people don't build street cars for driving more technical than autocross.
However, like many people on here, I've violated this rule on quite a few occasions.
One thing I can say to help you out with this, is that it's possible to get anywhere from a 3-point to 7-point bolt-in cage from companies like Cusco. The nice thing about this is that you can add to the cage on track days, but leave out nearly all of the back half of the cage when you have passengers. Often times, you'll be able to install a cage without affecting the people sitting in the rear. In that case, I would highly recommend padding any bar that comes within proximity of your passengers, ESPECIALLY the one(s) running directly behind your seats. In all honesty, you'll probably have your Zeta on sliders, but there will very likely be only one good setting since the seat will not recline. This is basically going to fix the seating position of your passengers anyway, so an extra bar or two probably won't affect much.
And by the sound of it, you don't have many rear passengers, so this may not be a bad way to go. Referring back to the quote, if you choose to make your street car your race car, you'll have to make a lot of tradeoffs to make the vehicle suitable for both. I believe that this is the main reason that most people don't build street cars for driving more technical than autocross.
does the oem belt go over your lap correctly? i want to make sure that i can run the oem belts safely.
I received some advice a few years back that I probably some of the best I've heard since I started working on cars. "Never make your street car your race car."
However, like many people on here, I've violated this rule on quite a few occasions.
One thing I can say to help you out with this, is that it's possible to get anywhere from a 3-point to 7-point bolt-in cage from companies like Cusco. The nice thing about this is that you can add to the cage on track days, but leave out nearly all of the back half of the cage when you have passengers. Often times, you'll be able to install a cage without affecting the people sitting in the rear. In that case, I would highly recommend padding any bar that comes within proximity of your passengers, ESPECIALLY the one(s) running directly behind your seats. In all honesty, you'll probably have your Zeta on sliders, but there will very likely be only one good setting since the seat will not recline. This is basically going to fix the seating position of your passengers anyway, so an extra bar or two probably won't affect much.
And by the sound of it, you don't have many rear passengers, so this may not be a bad way to go. Referring back to the quote, if you choose to make your street car your race car, you'll have to make a lot of tradeoffs to make the vehicle suitable for both. I believe that this is the main reason that most people don't build street cars for driving more technical than autocross.
However, like many people on here, I've violated this rule on quite a few occasions.
One thing I can say to help you out with this, is that it's possible to get anywhere from a 3-point to 7-point bolt-in cage from companies like Cusco. The nice thing about this is that you can add to the cage on track days, but leave out nearly all of the back half of the cage when you have passengers. Often times, you'll be able to install a cage without affecting the people sitting in the rear. In that case, I would highly recommend padding any bar that comes within proximity of your passengers, ESPECIALLY the one(s) running directly behind your seats. In all honesty, you'll probably have your Zeta on sliders, but there will very likely be only one good setting since the seat will not recline. This is basically going to fix the seating position of your passengers anyway, so an extra bar or two probably won't affect much.
And by the sound of it, you don't have many rear passengers, so this may not be a bad way to go. Referring back to the quote, if you choose to make your street car your race car, you'll have to make a lot of tradeoffs to make the vehicle suitable for both. I believe that this is the main reason that most people don't build street cars for driving more technical than autocross.
- Patrick
Heh, You'd have to be a pretty big guy for it to fit properly. I don't think you'll get the lap belt to fit through without modifying it so that the shoulder belt attaches separately. This is what I was talking about before.
Last edited by IB Chandak; Mar 11, 2013 at 02:06 PM.
^^so how exactly can i do this? run it through one hole and then would the metal part go through the other hole? tee's USA says that running it over the seat is still ok and functional, but just doesnt seem right.
It doesn't seem right to me, either. I had a friend who said he ran a Bride seat with the OEM belts in his AE86 for a few days. He told me that he couldn't see himself flying out of the seat, but it still didn't feel right to him. There's got to be a few vendors on the forums who distribute Bride seats and would probably have a better answer for you than I could ever give. Make sure to post up if you find one, so people searching in the future will know.
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