Diagnose me - auto-body/frame guys
I also sustained rear bumper damage (fixable), minor door damage, front fender damage, front bumper damage (fixable) and lost head light, side skirt and front wheel...I can deal with everything myself except frame damage and door damage and paint.
I have recent experience with an Evo that was hit in the right rear quarter by a drunk driver going ~35-40 MPH. The end result was frame sway in the rear, damaged suspension, scuffed bumper, destroyed door, side skirt damage, and a ruined quarter panel. The total repair cost was just under $15k.
Evolving Member
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From: Glastonbury, CT / Boston, MA
Well the $3300 I got was by me saying I would like to fix it myself and my insurance company came out assessed the damage and wrote me a check. It was the same quote that the body shop gave me, the insurance companies (or atleast mine, State Farm) uses some crash repair estimator and uses set rates for everything
I like State Farm. They will let you fix your car yourself. 
Which is great for me, because then I get to argue that this or that needs to be replaced.
I love my job. I hate insurance companies though

Which is great for me, because then I get to argue that this or that needs to be replaced.
I love my job. I hate insurance companies though
I agree...Ive been in an accident where we hydroplained and the back wheel...just like yours...caught the curb in a spin...there was a some good suspension damage, but there is no way your MR is total because of that.
Like others said -- get it looked at again by someone else.
Like others said -- get it looked at again by someone else.
That upper control arm pic looks just awful. It pained me to see the resulting uni-body damage.
Please let me know if you plan on parting the car out.
The right-rear sustained the brunt of the damage, right?
Please let me know if you plan on parting the car out.
The right-rear sustained the brunt of the damage, right?
Ya bro. It seems the only place I see where frame damage is possible is from the right rear, smashing the wheel inward, tweaking most of the control arms. The only observable damage I see to the frame is where the upper control arm pulled outward with massive force (force being from the curb to the lower part of the rim). The control arm mounting points were tweaked bad by the pulling force. The effect was a buckling of the C-pillar (from page-1), and a pulling of the rear quarter panel several mm away from the trunk lid.
[Pics all on page-1 of this thread]
1. Have you seen this damage before?
2. Should I bother fixing it?
3. What should I expect to spend?
4. What do I look for in a frame specialist?
thanks!
Go to a Frame shop
I've had a similar accident where I ran up on a curb backwards at about a 45 degree angle. My right rear tire got forced up into the body which caused it to buckle and pull out the upper control arm. I had to replace the hub, upper and lower control arms and had to have a frame shop weld a new plate to the frame to mount the upper control arm. I took it to a frame shop and had them make make multiple mearsurements on the frame to verify it was not damaged. I had the shop repair the control arm mount on the frame and the body work. The rest I fixed myself. Cost me about $2500 total.
Basically, you need to take it to a frame shop and have them measure the frame using lasers. Tell them you will pay to have this done. This way you will know what needs to be repaired, if they can pull it out and weld plates to it to re-strenghten it. There are multiple ways to fix this. If you don't have a service manual, get one. It shows all the frame measurements and where to make the measurements. Don't go cheap on verifying whether or not there is frame damage.
Still, 6100 is a steal if everything from the front doors up is untouched. You can easily get this repaired and possibly make some money off of it. If you have the documentation from the frame shop showing it's fine and you make the other repairs yourself, you can get teh DOT to change the title classification.
Basically, you need to take it to a frame shop and have them measure the frame using lasers. Tell them you will pay to have this done. This way you will know what needs to be repaired, if they can pull it out and weld plates to it to re-strenghten it. There are multiple ways to fix this. If you don't have a service manual, get one. It shows all the frame measurements and where to make the measurements. Don't go cheap on verifying whether or not there is frame damage.
Still, 6100 is a steal if everything from the front doors up is untouched. You can easily get this repaired and possibly make some money off of it. If you have the documentation from the frame shop showing it's fine and you make the other repairs yourself, you can get teh DOT to change the title classification.
Last edited by mithrandir7533; Oct 10, 2007 at 10:21 AM. Reason: addition
Is there any deformation of the interior trunk panels? The C pillar damage makes me think the forces might have traveled through the suspension to/through the interior trunk and on up towards the C. Or I could be completely off base but I just wanted to see if you've checked out this area.
Good luck & don't let yourself get screwed over by the system.
Good luck & don't let yourself get screwed over by the system.



