Immediatly blowing 7.5 fuse in engine bay when i replace it. Help!
Just replace the fuse with a higher amp fuse. Don't worry, it'll only cause you're car to catch on fire.
Check what that fuse is for and then try to figure out how you could have affected those components in the past. It's usually always a faulty ground or incorrectly spliced wires.
Check what that fuse is for and then try to figure out how you could have affected those components in the past. It's usually always a faulty ground or incorrectly spliced wires.
what ever is blowing the fuse, is something recieving power at all times (if it blows soon as you install the fuse with the switch off and key off). what in your car has voltage available at all times???
with everything off, if it blows immediately..... your short is before any switches of loads. if it blows after turning on a switch it is in the wiring after the switch or the load component itself............. it is definately not a ground circuit..... ground circuit problems cause things not to work, work poorly, or work when they shouldn't
i have to bring this thread back.
i replace fuse 20. (7.5) And after a few days then a few hours today it blows out. but i can use it for a while then it blows. the first time it blew it blew my pass. tail lights/brake lights. i havent done anything to the car recently that would alter anything. where else is there for me to check?
i replace fuse 20. (7.5) And after a few days then a few hours today it blows out. but i can use it for a while then it blows. the first time it blew it blew my pass. tail lights/brake lights. i havent done anything to the car recently that would alter anything. where else is there for me to check?
Do not use a higher amp fuse, use a 7.5 circuit breaker across the terminals to isolate the short. You have a power feed wire shorting to ground without the key on. Where are you in the Bay Area.
I know it's been mentioned, but check the head unit. I replaced mine and it ran fine for over a year and a half and all of a sudden one of my 7.5 amp fuses blew. One of the wires snagged against metal and after time, I guess it took the rubber casing off and hit the metal, causing the short. Good luck with it.
DON'T PUT IN A LARGER AMPERAGE FUSE! You are only asking to blow an electrical component or start a fire. First disconnect all components tapped into that fuse. Then trace the wires that are associated with that fuse. You will find a wire exposed due to wetness that is grounding out or bare wire touching metal that is the issue.
Jesus... sometimes people's suggestions on EvoM scare me. Don't put stupid advice out there if you don't know what your talking about. Even putting a 10 amp fuse in isn't going to help at all. If the fuse blows as soon as he puts it in then it has nothing to do with the components that aren't powered up, it is a grounding fault or an issue of crossed wires somewhere in the stock wiring of the components listed above...
To johnnydn, it doesn't matter if it is only a few amps larger of a fuse. Mitsubishi designed that electrical system the way it is FOR A REASON. All components on that fuse can take up to a MAX of 7.5 amps current. Anything higher and you risk frying the actual electrical component itself, causing a short and possibly a fire from over heating due to the overloaded circuit. So it doesn't pop the fuse... it will pop the component itself, like the headlight, or anything else running off of it. Just because the fuse doesn't blow doesn't mean that everything hooked up to it wont... Food for thought...
Jesus... sometimes people's suggestions on EvoM scare me. Don't put stupid advice out there if you don't know what your talking about. Even putting a 10 amp fuse in isn't going to help at all. If the fuse blows as soon as he puts it in then it has nothing to do with the components that aren't powered up, it is a grounding fault or an issue of crossed wires somewhere in the stock wiring of the components listed above...
To johnnydn, it doesn't matter if it is only a few amps larger of a fuse. Mitsubishi designed that electrical system the way it is FOR A REASON. All components on that fuse can take up to a MAX of 7.5 amps current. Anything higher and you risk frying the actual electrical component itself, causing a short and possibly a fire from over heating due to the overloaded circuit. So it doesn't pop the fuse... it will pop the component itself, like the headlight, or anything else running off of it. Just because the fuse doesn't blow doesn't mean that everything hooked up to it wont... Food for thought...
Last edited by buchnerj; May 31, 2010 at 11:45 AM.
This tells you most likely it is an exposed wire that is moving around somewhere in the console. When you move the car drastically it moves the wire and it grounds out to the chassis.
