What would you do with 1800?
Definitly meth so that you can get the most out of the turbo that you have. I am a fan of the utec for the abilitly to run mutiple maps with different boost levels that you can change on the fly. They are dirt cheap used. For me it is great having a range of maps from 400-500 WHP. You set the meth up on a switch and have a seperate map for it and you can expect another 40HP out of that turbo. Even more with a c16 map. Spend the money on a good meth kit with a failsafe. Don't let meth scare you away. I have been running a 50/50 mix for years with no problems. When I tore down the engine to freshin it up, everything looked great.
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From: Port Arthur, TX
either faster or i might consider sending my tranny / xfer case to be staged and have my engine rebuilt
you can get the 67mm in a T3 and tell them to upgrade you to a s-cover. This will set you up with a future build...motor and such. but the 61mm is also a good choice.
If it aint broke don't fix it. A beefed up tranny or t case is really not very beefed up at all. It is slightly improved on and rebuilt, but in no way bullet proof. Seen plenty of shattered Shep tcases and trannies. Not saying he does not do an excellent job, but there is no way to put huge amounts of torque through our AWD systems without the potenital for failure. Why are you not considering meth? It seems like the next logical step. I am also surprised you put in that new motor without throwing some forged internals in it while it was out of the car. Would have been a lot easier to do it then.
If it aint broke don't fix it. A beefed up tranny or t case is really not very beefed up at all. It is slightly improved on and rebuilt, but in no way bullet proof. Seen plenty of shattered Shep tcases and trannies. Not saying he does not do an excellent job, but there is no way to put huge amounts of torque through our AWD systems without the potenital for failure. Why are you not considering meth? It seems like the next logical step. I am also surprised you put in that new motor without throwing some forged internals in it while it was out of the car. Would have been a lot easier to do it then.
But now it is falling out os his a$$ in $100 bills. 18 or them to be exact. Seriously though, pistons and rods are very cheap considering the insurance that you get with them. $700 will buy you some eagle rods and good pistons. To do it now though will cost probably $1,700 compared to $700 if he did it when the motor was out.



I would say that everyone focuses on going faster maybe take the $1800 and buy some stopping power