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Please help! Axle Shaft threading damage

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Old May 20, 2010 | 07:51 AM
  #16  
cabrone's Avatar
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From: Troy, MI
Originally Posted by monkey_187
he hit the **** out of that thing with a hammer, I would just get another one. Theres really no way of fixing it other than cutting it. If you do you will not be able to put the cotter pin that locks the nut in place.
as stated prior, there are ways to still use the cotter pin, and cutting it is a TERRIBLE idea


Originally Posted by NWM_Tech
I've been working on cars for 34 years. They make a thread chaser kit just for this repair. I've probably fixed a couple dozen axles exactly like I've described.

Throw away your money if you'd like.

If he was in my area I would say bring it by my shop and I'll fix it for free. It would take about 5 minutes. If you are friends with any local mechanics, which you should be if you own an Evo, then they would probably do the same.

I agree, at that price, it is worth fixing... It's not FUBAR by any means.
Do you think the chamfer idea is decent? i can't see the hurt in it, the cotter pin with still be able to serve and no real material will be lost. If there are tools for this, would it be something only a mechanic would have, or can you rent/buy them?

Last edited by cabrone; May 20, 2010 at 08:04 AM.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 12:57 PM
  #17  
Negative-1's Avatar
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From: Mobile, AL
I have had to help a few friends out the same way, but I was able to just grind the mushroom'ed tip down so the nut could thread on. I also suggest anti-seize on the splines for ease of removal next time.
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Old May 20, 2010 | 12:57 PM
  #18  
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From: Seattle
Originally Posted by cabrone
as stated prior, there are ways to still use the cotter pin, and cutting it is a TERRIBLE idea
I agree, at that price, it is worth fixing... It's not FUBAR by any means.
Do you think the chamfer idea is decent? i can't see the hurt in it, the cotter pin with still be able to serve and no real material will be lost. If there are tools for this, would it be something only a mechanic would have, or can you rent/buy them?
agree cutting is not the way to go. Chamfer would work, you don't really need the last couple of threads out at the end but you still need to clean the threads after you chamfer so the nut will start.

You can do this with a triangular file or a thread file. It's tedious but totally possible. A metric thread file is about $10.00 and is a more all-round useful tool. Craftsman/Sears, Tool-Town maybe.

a thread chaser die from Snap-on is about $20.00 and it makes the job easy. This thread size is 22mm dia x 1.5mm pitch
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Old May 20, 2010 | 01:04 PM
  #19  
cabrone's Avatar
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From: Troy, MI
Originally Posted by NWM_Tech
agree cutting is not the way to go. Chamfer would work, you don't really need the last couple of threads out at the end but you still need to clean the threads after you chamfer so the nut will start.

You can do this with a triangular file or a thread file. It's tedious but totally possible. A metric thread file is about $10.00 and is a more all-round useful tool. Craftsman/Sears, Tool-Town maybe.

a thread chaser die from Snap-on is about $20.00 and it makes the job easy. This thread size is 22mm dia x 1.5mm pitch

thanks! good info! I was thinking of just taking it to a metal sander and slowly rotating it around, ever so slightly, to make sure nothing else gets messed up. Then chasing the remaining threads to insure they nut will go on proper like. Any tips would be awesome!
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Old May 23, 2010 | 08:51 AM
  #20  
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From: was Georgia, now williamsport PA
I certainly hope that the CV is in good shape after such a beating...Not to mention, I hope he can remove the axle from the hub. Sure you can manipulate the mushroom to accept the nut. Im just saying that I wouldnt. And as a technician, I'd certainly replace it myself and recommend doing so to anyone.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 10:16 AM
  #21  
cabrone's Avatar
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From: Troy, MI
^^^ok.... why wouldn't you? Disregard the beating it MAY have received, the mushroomed end has NOTHING to do with necessary threads, at all. Filing, machining, sanding would do nothing to compromise functionality of the axle.
and it wont be hard to get the hub off... they have a press for such things.
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Old May 24, 2010 | 10:22 AM
  #22  
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From: Rapids Coon, MN
i would just get a new one with the amount of work itll take to get that fixed.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 06:11 AM
  #23  
cabrone's Avatar
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From: Troy, MI
Originally Posted by pennies_hatchie
i would just get a new one with the amount of work itll take to get that fixed.
Not to be a dick, but did you read how much work would even be required to fix it?
It appears it's something that could be done in an afternoon. Besides, the axle was cheap and all of the people i've talked to, sans the nay- sayers on here, have all said it'll work fine, and a few people who work @ shops said it's not a big deal.

A new axle is rather expensive, for those who are unfamiliar.

if one were to use the formula of
time = money, and work = time, one can deduct that
work = money.
the amount of work in no way would even be close to the amount of money unless you rate yourself @ damn near 100 dollars an hour labor.

some of you people are so quick to throw away money. throw it my way.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 08:43 PM
  #24  
Minion's Avatar
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From: Rochelle IL
i could have it fixed in a few minutes with a triangle file and just have a shop press the axle out. DON'T CUT IT please. i like what Cabrone said by the way.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 08:49 PM
  #25  
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From: Milwaukee, WI
Originally Posted by NWM_Tech
I've been working on cars for 34 years. They make a thread chaser kit just for this repair. I've probably fixed a couple dozen axles exactly like I've described.

Throw away your money if you'd like.

If he was in my area I would say bring it by my shop and I'll fix it for free. It would take about 5 minutes. If you are friends with any local mechanics, which you should be if you own an Evo, then they would probably do the same.
Where do you get this kit you speak of? My thread in the back is bad and once I can replace the rear hub, I want to fix the thread while I'm at it.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 08:37 PM
  #26  
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From: Michigan
thanks to everyone that chimed in!

i've decided, with the help of what most people have said, it's worth saving the part rather than spending a couple hundred dollars more just for the sake of having every thread be perfect. i believe it won't compromise the safe if done correctly.

once i get some progress done towards fixing it, i'll post some pictures for anyone who has future problems like this
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