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Problems with Injectors

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Old Jun 4, 2010 | 10:44 PM
  #1  
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Problems with Injectors

Since a couple days ago i was having idle problems when i slow down to stop at stop lights, and i have taken it to a local shop to check it out, i have no vaccum leak, no valve problems, and today the shop told me my fuel injectors are cutting out on idle, i have gotten some suggestions by my tuner and he will look at my car once my appointment day since hes all booked, but before hand he should tell me i should either just get a whole new set of injectors or take the ones i currently have to get them flow tested and cleaned, any suggestions or recommendations??

Mod list
-720cc Injectors.
-NGK Spark Plugs.
-Perrin Fuel Rail.
-HKS Twin Power Ignition.
-Perrin Exhaust With HKS Muffler.
-Tubular Headers.
-Greddy EC01 Boost Controller.
-AEM Wideband, Prosport Boost and Oil Gage (all installed in dash.)
-Walbro fuel pump.
-Cosworth Stage 1 Cams.
-Injen Intercooler Piping/Intake.
-A/M Front Mount.
-Tein Lowering Springs.
-FP Green Turbo
- Mini Battery Kit.
-Greddy Oil Catch Can.
-ACT Xtreme Clutch installed not to long ago.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 07:24 AM
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I can not see all the injectors are bad. If the injectors are dirty, they will also effect cruising speed. I think there is something else, possible asc motor.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 11:06 AM
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what is the asc motor?
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 01:57 PM
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I think he meant iac

idle air control
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 02:34 PM
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Originally Posted by chaotichoax
I think he meant iac

idle air control
Thanks for straighten me out. Getting to old to work on these stuff.
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Old Jun 5, 2010 | 05:37 PM
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Interesting. What brand are you using? I believe mine are PTE.

I have the same damn issue. I recently had a BBK Full turbo w/ 1000cc injectors & a JM Fab header installed and tuned at CBRD. The car ran well pulling out of the shop, and I drove it from CBRD down to Baltimore, then back home to Albany NY that weekend. I installed an AMS small battery kit, and upon recommendation from Chad B, a Hallman Pro boost controller to replace my TurboXS. I took it to a small autocross and threw a P0300 and had a rough idle when I left the event. It stalled on me each time I tried coasting up to a light or stop sign. My mechanic buddy checked it over for boost/vac leaks, but didn't find anything other than a small amount of soot around the back side of the down pipe donut, which he sanded down to fit tighter. I had another friend who has tweaked my tunes from time to time take a look at the tune, and he played with some settings but couldn't get it any better than it is. We did notice in playing with it that it seems to not stumble as much if you take it out of gear when you coast, as opposed to just putting in the clutch. If you keep the revs above 1k rpm, then it's fine.

It's thrown a few more P0300 codes when I'm autocrossing, and usually only when I've touched the rev limiter during competition. The car pulls strong, so I'm chalking up the P0300 codes to the additional drivetrain noise produced by an AMS mustache bar delete kit and Perrin's PSRS solid bushings (added in the Spring) being picked up by the knock sensor. Plugs were new this Spring.

- BBK Full turbo
- HKS 272 I/E cams
- MIL.SPEC 65mm TB
- PTE 1000cc Injectors
- JM Fab Twin scroll tubular header
- AMS IC
- Walbro FP
- other parts that probably don't impact the situation

Last edited by EJEvo; Jun 7, 2010 at 09:30 PM. Reason: added parts list
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Old Jun 6, 2010 | 03:07 PM
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Originally Posted by EJEvo
Interesting. What brand are you using? I believe mine are PTE.

I have the same damn issue. I recently had a BBK Full turbo w/ 1000cc injectors & a JM Fab header installed and tuned at CBRD. The car ran well pulling out of the shop, and I drove it from CBRD down to Baltimore, then back home to Albany NY that weekend. I installed an AMS small battery kit, and upon recommendation from Chad B, a Hallman Pro boost controller to replace my TurboXS. I took it to a small autocross and threw a P0300 and had a rough idle when I left the event. It stalled on me each time I tried coasting up to a light or stop sign. My mechanic buddy checked it over for boost/vac leaks, but didn't find anything other than a small amount of soot around the back side of the down pipe donut, which he sanded down to fit tighter. I had another friend who has tweaked my tunes from time to time take a look at the tune, and he played with some settings but couldn't get it any better than it is. We did notice in playing with it that it seems to not stumble as much if you take it out of gear when you coast, as opposed to just putting in the clutch. If you keep the revs above 1k rpm, then it's fine.

It's thrown a few more P0300 codes when I'm autocrossing, and usually only when I've touched the rev limiter during competition. The car pulls strong, so I'm chalking up the P0300 codes to the additional drivetrain noise produced by an AMS moustache bar delete kit and Perrins PSRS solid bushings (added in the Spring) being picked up by the knock sensor. Plugs were new this Spring.

holy s*** im having the same problem with rough idle, stalling & sometimes hard to start, i just got PTE 880's installed and tuned and was going crazy trying to find out what was going on, now you got me thinking it might be the injectors?
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Old Jun 7, 2010 | 01:40 PM
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Could be the scaling of the injectors. I was told the spray pattern of Precision makes it very hard to get them dialed in perfectly. FIC is an easier spray pattern to dial in. Some tuners have Precision scaling on evo scan down to a science where as others do not yet.

Road vs. Dyno could play into this a bit as well.
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 07:50 AM
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From: york, pa 17402
you can also play with the idle stepper table values,

cb
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Old Jun 8, 2010 | 09:11 PM
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I just got my car fully checked and tuned at UMS Tuning, thank you Tony!
My car is running perfect now, turns out my injectors were perfectly fine, the tune was the problem, a fresh dyno tune and my car is running perfect, strong and healthy
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 07:31 PM
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From: Albany NY
Here's what my tuning tweaker said:

EJ -

I made several changes both ways to the idle stepper table but it made no difference. On top of the IST values I also tried adjusting the catch point for the idle (where it drops to), injector timing at idle, and cam timing. None of which remedied the problem unfortunately.
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