Buying a "clean" Evolution 9?
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Buying a "clean" Evolution 9?
Some guidelines in buying a "clean" evolution 9! Comments here in this thread
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...gsr-se-mr.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...gsr-se-mr.html
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
This thread is started in order for evolution enthusiasts to buy the perfect evolution 9 for their needs. Also, for potential buyers trying to find a low mileage, stock evolution 9.
1. Check for VIN numbers: make sure it matches all the body panels. areas to look for VIN: bumper-front and rear, front fenders, trunk lid, front and rear doors as well as the engine and tranny VIN are etched to these mechanical parts.
2. Low miles is the key. below 15K for an 06 would demand the highest bidder. 30-45k miles would be the usual mileage for a "low miles to year."
3. clean brembo's with no warped rotors. oem brembo pads means the owner wants oem materials.
4. clean interiors, if the vehicle as the original production stickers the better. the sunvisors have inspection stickers to it(!). The airbag sticker in the glovebox door if intact means the owners's intent in keeping the evo's value.
5. oem radio is actually a plus, since aftermarket install can mess up the wiring or can be mutiple taps on the wiring.
6. premium turbo timers and alarm combo means that the car was valued enough that a professional install of these was made. preferably: compustar and DEI products only.
7. oem wheels whether it was the BBS or the regular Enkeis in good to excellent condition is preferred coupled with Yokohama Advans A046 only. any other tire means that the owner took a cheaper route. Hankook, Bridgestone, Pirelli, etc. a no, no.
8. Regular maintenance schedule done by the dealer(only). A printout can be requested from the dealer by the owner or the buyer.
9. the usual carfax to determine if the vehicle was in an accident or not which can usually be determined if the VIN number sticker is missing. the usual loophole is using a CF hood, aftermarket bumper, CF trunk and aftermarket bumper to hide an accident. if the oem parts are available, then it is okay.
10. Preferably 1st owner vehicle. They can confirm the status of the clutch, repair work and maintenance, as well as the owner's manual, manufacturer/dealer sticker, etc.
1. Check for VIN numbers: make sure it matches all the body panels. areas to look for VIN: bumper-front and rear, front fenders, trunk lid, front and rear doors as well as the engine and tranny VIN are etched to these mechanical parts.
2. Low miles is the key. below 15K for an 06 would demand the highest bidder. 30-45k miles would be the usual mileage for a "low miles to year."
3. clean brembo's with no warped rotors. oem brembo pads means the owner wants oem materials.
4. clean interiors, if the vehicle as the original production stickers the better. the sunvisors have inspection stickers to it(!). The airbag sticker in the glovebox door if intact means the owners's intent in keeping the evo's value.
5. oem radio is actually a plus, since aftermarket install can mess up the wiring or can be mutiple taps on the wiring.
6. premium turbo timers and alarm combo means that the car was valued enough that a professional install of these was made. preferably: compustar and DEI products only.
7. oem wheels whether it was the BBS or the regular Enkeis in good to excellent condition is preferred coupled with Yokohama Advans A046 only. any other tire means that the owner took a cheaper route. Hankook, Bridgestone, Pirelli, etc. a no, no.
8. Regular maintenance schedule done by the dealer(only). A printout can be requested from the dealer by the owner or the buyer.
9. the usual carfax to determine if the vehicle was in an accident or not which can usually be determined if the VIN number sticker is missing. the usual loophole is using a CF hood, aftermarket bumper, CF trunk and aftermarket bumper to hide an accident. if the oem parts are available, then it is okay.
10. Preferably 1st owner vehicle. They can confirm the status of the clutch, repair work and maintenance, as well as the owner's manual, manufacturer/dealer sticker, etc.
A couple of points, if I may:
Re: #6 - a turbo timer tells me the car was owned by someone who did not understand its mechanics
Re: #7 - expecting folks to buy OEM tires isn't very logical when newer, better compounds exist and/or when the owner's usage parameters require an alternate approach
Re: #6 - a turbo timer tells me the car was owned by someone who did not understand its mechanics
Re: #7 - expecting folks to buy OEM tires isn't very logical when newer, better compounds exist and/or when the owner's usage parameters require an alternate approach
I agree with FJF's comments. A turbo timer is not necessary since the turbo is oil and water cooled and the use of modern synthetics pretty much eliminates the chance of coking.
I would not consider Bridgestone a step down. They make excellent tires.
I would also like to add that one will be very lucky to find dealer only mantenance records. In fact I don't trust any dealer and would submit that my IX is better mantained by doing it myself.
I would not consider Bridgestone a step down. They make excellent tires.
I would also like to add that one will be very lucky to find dealer only mantenance records. In fact I don't trust any dealer and would submit that my IX is better mantained by doing it myself.
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A couple of points, if I may:
Re: #6 - a turbo timer tells me the car was owned by someone who did not understand its mechanics
Re: #7 - expecting folks to buy OEM tires isn't very logical when newer, better compounds exist and/or when the owner's usage parameters require an alternate approach
Re: #6 - a turbo timer tells me the car was owned by someone who did not understand its mechanics
Re: #7 - expecting folks to buy OEM tires isn't very logical when newer, better compounds exist and/or when the owner's usage parameters require an alternate approach
#7 better compounds for what? track days? autox? besides, if you have after market tires at 15k miles means it was driven hard. again, ^statement based on the wrong premise.
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RECEIPTS RECEIPTS RECEIPTS.
I keep all my receipts for all my purchases that go toward the vehicle. I suppose that would go towards documentation. Even if you did all the work yourself, I want to see what was purchased.
I keep all my receipts for all my purchases that go toward the vehicle. I suppose that would go towards documentation. Even if you did all the work yourself, I want to see what was purchased.
#7 better compounds for what? track days? autox?
besides, if you have after market tires at 15k miles means it was driven hard
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they(third party) should trust you more than the dealer? btw, bridgestone makes excellent tires but if you want to be a purist "stock" evo then the A046 is it.
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Why mention a turbo timer at all? Other features come with alarms, as well, but we're discussing a buyer's guide that should be relevant to the specific platform.
the premium-most expensive compustar platform comes with a turbotimer standard that is why it was mentioned. btw a lojack would also be a plus
My point, exactly. OEM tires aren't necessarily applicable to many user-driven scenarios.
true but that is what came with the vehicle oem advan A046. would you buy a used range rover with hankook tires. normally it comes with pirelli and the new ones come with michelin tires nowadays.
Or perhaps the owner living in, say, the NW wanted better wet-weather performance. Really, I think these two points should be modified.
a second set of wheel and tires combo is even better
the premium-most expensive compustar platform comes with a turbotimer standard that is why it was mentioned. btw a lojack would also be a plus
My point, exactly. OEM tires aren't necessarily applicable to many user-driven scenarios.
true but that is what came with the vehicle oem advan A046. would you buy a used range rover with hankook tires. normally it comes with pirelli and the new ones come with michelin tires nowadays.
Or perhaps the owner living in, say, the NW wanted better wet-weather performance. Really, I think these two points should be modified.
a second set of wheel and tires combo is even better
Last edited by sblvro; Sep 29, 2010 at 12:42 PM.
I run Hankooks on my own Evo and would not hesitate buying a car shod with an appropriate tire. I think it's clear that I'm not comfortable with some of the content and I will not be referring folks to the thread.
I'm gonna side with FJF on tires. I drive my car 6/10ths at best, and get no life out of the Advans.
The only pro-case I can think of for the Advans would be if the car was so low on mileage in four years that the stock tires would not have worn out.
That would be such an IX I'd love to own! Unfortunately, it would also probably cost $26k+ easily.
Variety of opinions make the world go around.
Let's all remember that.
The only pro-case I can think of for the Advans would be if the car was so low on mileage in four years that the stock tires would not have worn out.
That would be such an IX I'd love to own! Unfortunately, it would also probably cost $26k+ easily.
Variety of opinions make the world go around.
Let's all remember that.
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From: somewhere testing various tires, brakes, and suspensions.
How about we reword it a little. Something along the lines of which tire the car has tells a lot about its owner. Good tires Z1*, RE11, Hankook Evo, etc over Nexen, general (word not brand) all-seasons or other lower end brands.
The price of the A046s are absurdly expensive for a track/AX tire. Which is what they are. A sticky cheater tire to give the best handling at the expense of lower tread life. There are other, new tires and compounds that do that.
The price of the A046s are absurdly expensive for a track/AX tire. Which is what they are. A sticky cheater tire to give the best handling at the expense of lower tread life. There are other, new tires and compounds that do that.
