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Valve cover install fail! so pissed! HELP

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Old Oct 8, 2010 | 12:55 PM
  #16  
sirsol's Avatar
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From: Michigan
I've had this happen on my old DSM, and made the same mistake you did.

I was able to seal up the crack with JB, and it held for about a month until I got a new cover and had it coated. So, if you're in a pinch, take off the cover, wash it VERY well (concentrated simple green or similar), lightly sand the area, and glob on the JB weld or similar. I also put a "V" cut into my cover with a die grinder to give the JB a greater contact area to seal up. It should tide you over until you can get a new cover. Good luck
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 11:48 AM
  #17  
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I would just repair what you have. idle the car and watch for any leaks. If there are no leaks, then drive the car for 15 mins or so and recheck.
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 12:07 PM
  #18  
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Been there with my DSM. Sorry to hear about it. Best bet buy a used one
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 12:26 PM
  #19  
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Google conversion ftw
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 12:45 PM
  #20  
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From: Wheeling, WV
Originally Posted by Mr1mike2001
Sorry to hear that man......just outta curiosity though when you pulled the bolt back out howd the threads look. Both on the bolt and in the bolt hole. It should be fine being a steel block but just something else to look at.
It bolts to the head. The head is aluminum.

I use a nut driver and tighten them in a circular sequence. Outside, inside, repeat.

If you're using a ft/lb torque wrench, it won't adjust low enough. They typically go as low as 10 lb/ft. (120in/lb) You need an in/lb torque wrench. They typically go up to 250 lb/in. (20.83 ft/lb)
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 12:55 PM
  #21  
Jeffs2006EVOIX's Avatar
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From: SoCal
Wow bummer, I bet that is going to cost a little bit of change, especially if you buy a NEW one.

I know you should use a torque wrench, but I always just went with a good snug with a small ratchet. You feel the gasket compress and thats it. Tightening from the center out, kinda like head studs.

Torque wrench would be better though, I will have to look for one in inches here soon. Just to have on hand.
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 01:00 PM
  #22  
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i would totally try jb weld first, dam valve covers are not cheap.

do you have a pic of the crack?
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 03:05 PM
  #23  
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From: Ahead of YOU
jb weld is a short term solution to a potentially long term problem. he time attacks the car. the last thing he needs is for the patch to fail.
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 08:11 PM
  #24  
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From: seattle
Exactly what I did! I hate math, I bookmarked this
http://www.onlineconversion.com/torque.htm and use it whenever I need to convert inch lb/ft lb

Originally Posted by Enjoi
Google conversion ftw
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Old Oct 9, 2010 | 08:28 PM
  #25  
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From: Western Slope
Originally Posted by Enjoi
Google conversion ftw
Having both a ft/lb and in/lb torque wrench ftw
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 11:47 AM
  #26  
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From: CT
yea I have a 1/2 in drive ft. lbs tourqe wrench and a 3/8 drive in. lbs tourque wrench.......learned the hard way myself when I over tourqued the bolts on my integra's water pump
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 01:27 PM
  #27  
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
1 ft/lb = 12 in/lbs
10 ft/lb = 120 in/lbs
12 ft/lb = 144 in/lbs.



follow a pattern? =)
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 01:36 PM
  #28  
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From: Ahead of YOU
so to your logic rogue 150ft lbs is 1800 in/lbs?
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 01:54 PM
  #29  
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From: Western Slope
Originally Posted by *constant_boost
so to your logic rogue 150ft lbs is 1800 in/lbs?
More like 149.99 haha but yeah that's right!
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Old Oct 10, 2010 | 02:20 PM
  #30  
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From: Pittsburgh, PA
Originally Posted by *constant_boost
so to your logic rogue 150ft lbs is 1800 in/lbs?
right on!!
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