I replaced the Idle Control solinoid/motor which is on the bottom throttle body and the part number is 1450A069. I just got it and installed it and it seems my issues went away but now the code is back. I don't know what else to look for. The boost leak test is clear I cleaned the inside of the throttle body open the butterfly flap and cleaned as much of the build up off as possiable without raising the tb off. If there is any other suggestions please help. I am also tuned on sd not useing the MAF.

 

Bump updated my post need some.more help/suggestions.

 

do you have the stock throttle body? i had serious idle issues when i cleaned up the "goop" around the throttle body. i thought it was real stubborn carbon build up. it was, in fact, a bead of material that is put on from the factory to take up clearences in the throttle plate. my idle would hit 2 grand and stay at 1500 until i drove. it would drive normal and then at a stop sign, or pushing the clutch in, it would act up. i drove the car like that for two weeks, and then, finally, the computer learned the parameters and readjusted itself to compensate for the added incoming air. all codes reset. by then, however, i had already bought a boomba throttle body. iac wasn't the problem at all, cause i used the old one off my old t-body. the new iac may need to be relearned. there was a thread in the evo x section about a quick idle relearn, that, actually worked on my car also. ( or maybe it was in my head). k.o.e.o. 3 times, on third time, start the car and let idle until operating temp. with the a/c on. or something like that. or just drive the car alot until the computer relearns it. or maybe its the tune or something with the map readings. or maybe even something in the iac wiring or circuit somewhere. good luck.

 

Yes stock TB. I have no real issues at leat the one I was experianceing was the car like to hold idle on its own when you would clutch in. I did not have that today and now its like when I give it gas it acts like there is a leak when there is not. I had two codes at first PO170 "fuel trim error" and PO505 the PO170 went away after I reset the codes and the other code went away until I started the car cold and let it idle to Operating temp then it came on I cleared it and drove to DC a 27 mile trip and now its back on again as I got into the garage I turned the car off and then back on and the code popped back up. Here are my mods in case it could help anyone.

HKS Hi-Power
Injen Super SES DP
3" Test Pipe
Modified JM Fab Intake for SD
Forge RS BOV VTA
ETS FMIC 3.5
ETS 3" UICP
ETS v2 LICP Modified
EPM v2 o2 Dump
Ported 84mm FP Red
FiD EL Tubular Manifoold
FIC 1050cc Inj
Walboro 255
COMP 272's
ARP Head Studs
HKS EVC VI EBC
Open Port/ECU Flash 2.0 Tune
Omni Power 4 bar MAP Sensor for SD
HKS Super Mega Flow Filter Kit
Spark Tech non-CDI
NGK BR8ES Gaped a 24

 

if you reset the codes and they come back, the issue is not fixed. sounds like you either have a vaccuum or boost leak, pre throttle body. i would check leaks again and have your tune rechecked. and yeah, my idle issue cleared up every now and then, but would randomly do it after boost, then coming to a stop. like i said though, my issue went away after 200 miles ( 2 weeks of driving). but i still changed the throttle body. not one issue after that. however, i am one tenth as modified as you are. good luck my man.

 

So you suggest me to drive it for maybe 200 miles and see? This happened right after my tune the codes at least. I had these issues before but never got the code. I am looking now at the Mil.Spec 65mm TB, I drive over 200 miles a week lol so I can test it and see but the other thing I notices is now with the code my idle a/f is 11.5 creeping up to high 13's so I am running rich so maybe it is something to do with the tune.

 

high 13s is LEAN. blowup time. yes, maybe the tune. more than likely, a leak.

 

Well thats only at idle and the lower the number the richer you are lol thats what I was meaning hahaha, at 13's at Idle I am not worried only if that were my Boost A/F. In boost I am in Low to Mid 11's creeping to 12.5-12.7 depending on the RPM band.

 

This definitely sounds like your SD tune needs tweaking. If right after the tune, you started having code issues then 99% chance it's the tune. The ECU wants to see the idle hit the target RPM after IAC adjustment and it also wants to see an AFR at idle of 14.7 (unless you are tuned to full time open loop, which is unlikely). If the tune is too far off, then you end up with an unhappy ECU claiming a mechanical problem. There is no P code for Needs a Retune

I'd take it back to your tuner and have them drive and datalog the car for a handful of drive cycles, from cold start through warm-up and cruising. SD can be tricky to dial in for all conditions.

 

Yeah,I spoke with the tuner today and we are going to finish some basic cheap trouble shooting. I already did a exspensive one which was replaceing the IAC Motor $330.00 for that and it was not the issue. I just ordered new TB shaft seals and a new OEM Intake mani to TB gasket and I will eliminate the possiability of a leak. They said they checked everything else but the shaft seal leak is hard to do only if you tear it apart lol so I will be doing that on monday as long as I get my stuff on friday. I might do it sunday so I can maybe see if that fixes the P0505 code.
The tuner asked me if I could leave the car there for 1-2 days so he can do as you suggested rich and that is to data log it both warm and cold to get the code and see what it is possiably. The next step is to replace the throttle body in which I will get the Mil.Spec 65mm TB. I was going to eventually contact you and see if you would help me on the SD setup with a log and see if there is anything off as I know you have had success and it took time I know. I was PM'ed by
05VIII as he had this code and said the Target idle was his issue and the BISS screw and Idle needed tweaked in EvoScan to make the ECU happy.

So my steps

1. Replace/ IAC Motor "did not fix it"
2. Replace the TB Seals & Gasket
3. Tweak the Target Idle from 1100 to 900rpms and adjust the BISS Screw as well
4.Buy Mil.Spec 65mm TB

 

I would say that adjusting the BISS properly is going to cure the code... stop throwing money at the car... load up evoscan, hit the SAS mode actuator and adjust the BISS to where the car idles at around 900 rpm, uncheck SAS mode and let the car idle and relearn the IAC routine...

 

Have no clue on how to use evoscan or ecu flash ill leave it to the tuner lol.

 

I got a email this morning after I got off work from the shop and they said it seems allot of 05 models have this code with Rom Map 96530006. They just need to do as Fast Freddie said the SAS/BISS need Adjusted as well as the idle to have the car relearn its idle and then I should be ok. I will still replace the Seals and Gasket to just do basic maintaince so it cant hurt. I did adjust the BISS Screw on my own but it helped for 20 extra miles thats all lol I made it like 59 miles before the code went back off.

 

You did nothing but make your idle worse by adjusting the BISS when not in SAS mode... congratulations...

 

lol, I just did some trobleshooting that fixed someone elses code but your right I had to put it back as I was idleing ok but under load it was acting real goofy. I already regapped my plugs as my tuner suggested to see if it would help the "possibale" misfire but it did not do much so I will wait until monday to see if they have the time to adjust the SAS/BISS setup with evo scan.