Carmax will usually offer adjusted (diminished) wholesale value only for anything found by the carfox. You'll get about 2x as much selling it yourself.

I'd say $7k sounds about right from a dealership if it has a major collision repair history. Now consider the fact that there seems to be a salvage Evo selling for $10k-$15k every month in the marketplace, and you can see why people just sell them on their own.

Just do us all a favor, and have it repaired correctly, and honestly disclose all issues with the car and/or repair.

 

Just curiously did you purchase this vehicle new or used?
If you did purchase it used did you have it inspected?
I have seen many times over the years "prior damage" to a vehicle no one knew anything about till it was in the shop for other repairs.

Now on to the warranty discussion,
Any reputable shop will offer a warranty and this a general breakdown,
Lifetime warranty, read the fine print as this usually only covers "workmanship"
After that the warranty covers "parts / materials", what this means is each one of the parts used to repair your vehicle carries it's own warranty.

So each part will have a warranty that varies in length anywhere from 30 days to lifetime.
Paint manufacturers warranty varies from 5 years to lifetime excluding obvious things like large stone chips and rust and this warranty usually only extends to "new panels" because the existing finish on a used panel can have an effect on how long your new paint "could last".

Standard shop warranty VS Insurance "DRP" backed:
Insurance companies do not warranty repairs, but what they can do is enforce satisfaction via the threat of being kicked off the "DRP" program, another advantage is if the repairs via "DRP" shop are from one of the big nationwide Ins. companies your good across the nation.

There's allot of good information on this site if you want to check it out http://autobodyscoop.com/

 

I realized I went on a limb with this. There must've been some confusion with regard to the damage/inspection report and the lawyer's letter. The report simply mentions diminished value in the car's current state. I had a choice of two roads: get the car repaired AGAIN, and THEN get an appraisal and collect d-value OR get out of the car. Almost anyone I talked to said, try to get the hell out of the car. That was the intention of the first letter and damage report copy. I wasn't asking the body shop for d-value but demanding compensation for the value of the car, pre-accident. This failed. I'm beginning to think the only way I could plead my case and collect $ is to begin litigation proceedings, which I do not have the disposable income for. A suit could cost up $10k from what I have been told by my lawyer. The lawyer first suggested a "threat" letter along with the post accident appraisal/inspection report to help things along as the first plan. This was cost effective, yet futile. The thing is I have so much in my favor: documentation of EVERYTHING, pictures, email conversations, a written log of dates, times, whom I spoke to, what was discussed, etc etc.The current appraised value of the car at just under $7,000 is in it's CURRENT state, still not repaired correctly. The car will not pass state inspection and that'll be my next piece of leverage, an official state "flunk" report for the car. The car as it sits is unsafe to be driven, thanks to the shoddy workmanship of the body shop. Of course IF and when the car would be repaired thoroughly and correctly, the value will increase. I would not ask anything over $11 or $12k for the car. There are wrecked sh*t boxes selling on autotrader for almost 10K...completely unrepaired!The insurance company of the at fault party has completely abstained themselves of the situation by saying, sorry it's between you and the body shop. This is understandable. The shop was not one of their DRP's. I'm not sure my own insurance company is willing to or capable of doing a thing. Insurance industry, the claims process and DRP's has SICKENED me and I wish I didn't have to pay them a dime. They have no problem taking your cash but god forbid you file a claim.

Thanks again, anyone that took the time to read this and respond. I really do appreciate it. I am just looking for some fresh insight, or 3rd party ideas on other ways to approach this, cost effectively.


"Regarding the statement I bolded above... to be straight with you, this is not going to happen. Again, insurance companies will come into play here, not the shop, in regards to diminished value, total loss, and money paid out for repairs.
As we only have part of the story... What did the letter from the lawyer state? Did the lawyer tell the body shop manager that you expected them to pay you $18k, and take your car? If so, then I can see why the foreman said that your request for was ridiculous. Most lawyers would know that this is not likely to happen and you'd need to pursue the insurance company for a diminished value claim.

Have you spoken to the Insurance Commissioner in your state?"

I have not tried this yet. I'd be interested in hearing more about this suggestion though. Oh, I filed a claim with the BBB and they closed the complaint because it involved compensation. B.S.

 

"I wasn't asking the body shop for d-value but demanding compensation for the value of the car, pre-accident."

Just a question... How could the shop in any way shape or form be liable for the value of the car "pre-accident"? you were not insured by them nor did they crash the car.

I understand your frustrated but they would not be liable for the pre-loss value any more than the kid bagging your groceries.

 

They did $10,000 worth of work and also had the car two separate times to fix major structural damage. Both times they returned the car to me, still unfixed with issues present that rendered the car basically unfit and unsafe to drive on public roads. There are stripped bolts for the rear cross member. The new floor pan is also stripped. There are incorrectly installed diff carrier bushings. It seems half the welds on the floor barely meet both mating surfaces. The list goes on. This is how the car STILL sits. So, on top of the $10,000 already into the car, there will need to be at LEAST another 2-3k to be invested to make the car correct. This would have to be done at another shop because the first is incapable of a competent repair. Most other shops charge up to twice their normal labor rate to do a re-repair of another shop's botch. If the car were to get fixed at another shop I would then pursue a d-value claim which is MORE money paid out.

The point here is, because the body shop completely dropped the ball and of the necessary costs STILL required to fix the car, it is not worth the continued investment based on the car's pre accident value. Yes, the real reason I'm in this boat is because some ignorant *** hat on a cell phone rear ended me. However, I would not be in the position I'm at this very moment had the body shop performed a correct, thorough and safe repair from the get go. I don't think you understand the scope of the situation as whole. How would you feel taking a car back to a shop that already TWICE did such a negligent repair. And even if the car were to be repair by another shop, there is no way in hell I would be even remotely responsible for the costs. Just my $.2

 

Alas, you DO own or at least work for what looks to be a reputable shop. Ok, this is good because I get to hear your side of the story and a (hopefully) unbiased opinion. Would you like to see some pictures of how the car was allowed to leave their shop on two occasions? I'd like to see what you think of the quality (or lack thereof) the work.

 

Here's a sampling of the issues with the car. Some of these were from the first time the car left the shop, others are existing. Notice the dent in the door and belt molding (was on BOTH sides of the car), broken and missing drip molding clips (these popped up on me while driving down the highway), all three tabs on the rear underside of the rear bumper bent/broken to different degrees (was a new bumper), completely missing exhaust gasket (come on guys, who the hell are you kidding), bare, exposed, unprepped welds on the floor pan. Notice in the one shot that two of 5 welds even meet the mating surfaces. Pretty random welds there. The best ones are the completely missing rear crossmember bolts. They couldn't have been reinstalled anyway because the reinforced piece that contains the threads was welded crooked to the floorpan.

The picture of the stripped bolt came OUT of the crossmember after the car left the shop for the 2nd time. They stacked 3 washers under the head so it looked bottomed out I guess. The bolt was just kind of hanging out in there. This is flat rate, I don't give a sh*t, negligent bullsh*t work. Whoever performed this work and thought the car was ok to leave the shop like that should be out on his *** man. Especially on a car as fast as an Evo. There's a .pdf attachment for everyone's enjoyment.

 

Well...anyone following or those who have chimed in on this thread read the last post or take a gander at the pdf containing the repair havoc?

 

Dont spend one single dime and just sell the car,its not worth it.Its already a loss due to the now marked tittle,even if you get 12K for it take it and try starting fresh.This is from someone who gone through worst situations than this trust me sell it. Cut your loss and start fresh

 

Thanks for the input. I plan on trying to sell it at some point. Problem right now is, that it's basically unsellable because of the issues still present on the car. It won't pass a PA state inspection the way it sits, so I cannot sell the car as is. Sure, I COULD, but I don't know how much I'd get for it. Probably enough to break even on the lien. Then I'd not have much of anything for a down payment on another. I have to FIX it first. And I think that is my next plan of attack. Just get it fixed RIGHT at another shop and seek compensation from the insurance co or the body shop that messed things up from the beginning. We'll see who'll cooperate.

 

Wish ya lived closer -- I could refer you to a good shop.

 

Checked it all out so get ready. Is the trunk latched???? Jeez if it's not that is bad fitment.

Before I start... Shrink those pics a little but keep the original copies. The offices you are dealing with probably have 19" monitors.

It's a shoddy repair, to be sure. It needs to be fixed correctly, this is the main focus. I'm going to nutshell it for you.

1. Be sure to be professional and polite at all times, all forms of communication. No more threats. No more telling them what you are going to do. Ask them what THEY are going to do. (fix your car!)
2. Call the insurance company, get your adjusters email address.
3. Email the adjuster, outlining the shoddy repairs professionally.
4. Insist that ANOTHER SHOP complete the repairs, at their expense.

1. If they refuse, get the response, in writing (email), and once you have it, quietly:
2. Contact the insurance commissioner. https://www.insurance.state.pa.us/ds...laintform.html and ask about your rights. (no need to tell the ins. co. about this, can cause more resistance once you threaten action.)
3. Be sure to be professional and polite at all times, all forms of communication.
4. If you see that there is no option other than take it back to the shop, it's time to bite the bullet and speak to the manager. Speak with the tech if you need to. If the tech is cool, then you may be willing to let him fix it. If he flies off the handle, leave quietly, and contact the insurance adjuster the next day and tell them they are giving you a hard time about the repairs. Be polite, but document everything. (email, to the adjuster)

1. If they accept, then take it to the most reputable shop in town and have it fixed right. Explain to them politely what is going on with the REPAIR side (not the other body shop sucking, not the insurance company sucking).
2. Get the car fixed correctly.
3. Be sure to be professional and polite at all times, all forms of communication.

You have it together, man. You have a few issues that must be handled separately.

1. Repair done correctly.
2. Repair properly paid for.
3. Compensation for diminished value.

Remember it's you against the world. Keeping the issues separate will allow you to take everything one step at a time. Micro manage the details if you must.

Now if you don't care about #1 above, then sell the car and get what you can or lawyer up.

If you don't care about #2 above, then pay the best shop in town to fix the car, and drive it until the wheels fall off, and worry about getting reimbursed in small claims court, exposing the ins. co. to insurance commissioner, and bad mouthing them to anyone who will listen.

If you don't care about #3 above, then get the car fixed and get the repair paid for, and pester the **** outta the insurance company until EVERYTHING is fixed properly. If you have to, discuss it with your insurance company to see if there is anything they can do (like you file a claim with them, get it fixed right, and let them chase the other insured, but talk to them first, as they may have some recommendations).

Any way you slice it, those three issues have to be handled separately because people tend to go on the defensive when threats are made and demands are given. However, you are entitled to get your car fixed, period-end-of-sentence.

It sucks to crash.
It sucks to have it be some idiots fault.
It sucks to have it repaired improperly.
It sucks to have to deal with insurance companies.
It sucks for no one wanting to take the responsibility.

It's a huge pain in the ***, but you shouldn't have to go it alone. I've found that if you play the sad, but easy to work with role, you can usually find someone who will help you.

I always call or show up and say: "Erin Insurance, your insured hit my car and I am having a difficult time getting this car repaired. I really need your help."

If they can't help, visit their office and speak in person with their manager. I've witnessed myself a manager signing off on payment for something that the adjuster has refused for weeks, that is outlined that it is to be refused in the policy.

"Bodyshop Bob, I know that I freaked out earlier, but you don't know the runaround I've gotten since day one with the insurance company and this car is my pride and joy. Do you have anyone beside Whacker ***** that can actually get this car fixed correctly? All that I care about is that it is fixed RIGHT. I really need your help, man. What can we do?"

"Commissioner's office Connie, I was hit by someone talking on their cellphone, I cannot get this car fixed properly, and the insurance company is just not taking me seriously. All I want is for my car to get fixed properly. I've heard great things about your office, is there anything you can do to help? Can you explain to me what rights I have in our beautiful state? Go Steelers/Eagles. The insurance company seems like they are trying to hold it against me that I didn't use a DRP shop."

etc.

You can also ignore all the demands you've made up to this point, and pretend you never freaked out on them. If they're easy going, they'll take this as a win, and just fix your damn car.

It's a long row to hoe... But the best way to view it as an exercise in persuasion.

That is the best advice I can give from someone who has had close relationships with body shop estimators and managers, insurance company adjusters, managers and underwriters, the insurance commissioner's office and thousands of car owners. However, none of this experience gives me insight into your state laws, so you have to do the leg work. You have rights man, it's time to get to know them if you're gonna get it done.

tl;dr - Good luck and god speed.

 

Wow this is above and beyond what I expected to hear from anyone on my problem(s). I sincerely appreciate your advice and will be taking this one step at a time. First things first. I'd like to contact the insurance commissioner and have a chat with them. Again, thanks a bunch. This is great.

 

quick note. Do not mention the letter from the lawyer. There is something on the site that says they don't get in the middle until all litigation is done. If you even mention a lawyer, they might use it as an out and start trying to back completely out of helping you.

If you call them and they brush you off, make an appointment to speak with someone from the office in person. I've had this happen before. No one likes to be "put to work" over the phone. Take your documentation and find out if you will be speaking with an agent of the commissioner's office or whom. No need to meet with the person answering the phone unless they are an agent and not an admin assistant.

 

Yeah...that's WITH the trunk closed. I adjusted the latch and turned the bump stops in ALL the way and it's baaarely flush, even a bit high yet if anything. You shouldn't have to turn the stops all the way in. It should be possible to adjust the trunk too low or too high, but I cannot. I'll try contacting the at fault party's ins. co. again.

I still have a feeling they're gonna come back with, sorry, it's not our DRP, can't help you. What I didn't mention was that I had already contacted the insurance company PRIOR to the lawyer's letter. Not once was I ever ignorant to anybody. I just wanted my damn car fixed. The first time around they said the same thing: "Sorry, nothing we can do." Again, nobody knew I was going to talk to a lawyer at that point. After the lawyer's letter, I got the same exact response before. I really don't wanna bite the bullet and go back to the shop for anything. I'm up for your suggestions, but what I'm not feeling is dealing with the same shop. I really don't trust them as far as I could push 'em. I don't want anyone's hands from that shop on my car. The manager even told me after the first round of problems that he sat a couple of his best techs down before the repair began and basically said, this guy's very particular, this really needs to be done RIGHT. And look what I got anyway. Haha.