update::

had the car running for about 10 minutes idle and touched the cable going to the battery and it was still pretty cool, wasnt hot at all imo... but the side going to alternator was actually hot and looked like it almost melted the rubber wire coating

my 80a AGU fuse just blew.. put another one in and it blew INSTANTLY!! .. i noticed that when car is cold and it has a new fuse it last a couple of miles or so and as soon as it blows and is replaced with a new one it will pop right away almost as if there is a dead short.. we put a meter on each wire and they tested good for shorts (at least i hope the way we tested it was the right way)

tested the voltage on battery and alternator and both were at 13.8 with the car running

 

how do u guys check cables/ wires to see if theres a short anywhere in the wire without actually taking it all the way out to inspect. like what type of meter is used along with what settings it should be on

 

^ take a multi-meter (Fluke) and put it on the little speaker sign (?) that should be continuity. Put one wire on a ground and put the other one on the wire itself. It should not beep. You can use the Ohm's selection, but this way is easier.

I just put 100 miles on mine, wire at battery cold, and for now no problems.

 

Then there is a short to ground on the alternator cable, or it isn't nearly big enough. Test it like Pirana said. Make sure there isn't a ground there. If there is no ground, then upsize the cable.

 

i changed the alternator cable from what it was before to 4gauge..

WHAT I DID SO FAR to test for any shorts.....

i disconnected the alternator cable from the fuse block (other end still connected to the alternator) and tested it.. NO beep

disconnected the battery cable from the fuse block AND from the battery terminal itself just to make sure nothing shorted under the car and NO beep

disconnected the starter cable from the fuse block (other end still connected to the alternator) and tested it.. NO beep

then finally checked the two 8 gauge wires going to engine bay fuse box and IT BEEPED!!.. but its weird because that fuse didnt blow or get hot in any way..its on a 60a fuse

 

well i peeled back some of the loom and heat shrink on my wires and found this on the alternator 4 gauge and on the 2 8ga fuse box cables...

going to go back far enough to where the copper is fresh again and solder the ends so that the allen head connections make a better contact with every wire in the cable since now they will be all soldered and stuck together vs only catching 10 out of 20 wires lol (btw read to do this on another forums)

 

this is the AGU fuse block that im using now




the trunk setup with a inline 150a ANL fuse for the positive



i know i need to find another ground location instead of this sheet metal .. any suggestions??

 

update:

so i cleaned up the tips of each cable (fuse box, alt, starter and battery) and had them soldered "tinned" for a better stronger connection.. car has been driven around and idle for 30 min now with no fuse poping, battery/brake light action ..YET.. lets hope that fixed the issue on my drive home after work

 

here is my only fuse



here is all the stock wiring combined on the other side.



Its been like this for a year and a half with no issues.

 

hmm guess i could do that i just thought i needed to fuse every wire just incase one was grounded out.. easy to find.. kinda sorta

 

I'm going to get rid of the fuse eventually, and go with a circuit breaker.

 

what size circuit breaker.. i was thinking the same

 

100 amp, same as the stock fuse that's on the battery.

 

UPDATE::

well looks like the soldering the ends of the cables seemed to have fixed my issue.. FOR NOW

knock on wood!

 

Good work man...get a 120-100amp breaker an you should be good.