Posted: 100k IX review
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From: San Jose, CA
Posted: 100k IX review
First let me start off by saying, this car wasn't really my choice at the time I got it. I had to get rid of my plagued, litigation-embroiled VIII (p0300 woes) due to California smog rules (I couldn't get it smogged, couldn't get it fixed, so the only solution was to "sell" it back to Mitsubishi). I ended up suing them through the Lemon Law at one point, and we settled for a trifle just to make it all go away. Suffice it to say I wasn't pleased with Mitsu's handling of that problem.
Fast forward from 03->06, I traded the '03 with 60k @ Stevens Creek Mitsu (now defunct, Hyundai or something) for this gorgeous GG IX with 6 miles on the odo. Got a great deal, well under MSRP with taxes and all (~32k OTD). Just paid 'er off last month actually, so very befitting timing given my 100k tick-over (it actually happened on my way home from the financing company). Yes, this and the prior car are/were DDs.
So, let's get into this, for all you who may be curious about how Evo ownership can be trying, and how it can be rewarding.
Maintenance
I do most of my own maintenance. I keep all my oil filter/oil receipts, and any other fluids I may need along the way. There was a point where I thought I'd trade this car in someday, but now I feel since it's paid off I should just roll with it as long as I can, maybe turn her into a track monster one day as she was always intended.
Some figures:
Oil changes: I don't skimp on this, every 3000-3500 miles without fail. So we're on something like oil change #33 at this point. I've always stuck with M1 synthetic despite the various findings on other oils, mostly because the stock oil cap is branded as such. It works, what can I say. Avg $40 per oil change, so ~$1200 in oil and filters alone. I'm now using their 5w30 "high mileage" full-synth.
Other fluids: As I said I've changed the diff and acd/tranny fluids every 50k or so, and I'm on my 2nd run now. I don't experience any of the ridiculous noise/whine or clunks that my '03 displayed. Sure once in a while a sharp shift to 2nd will net me a rear diff clunk, but it's no big deal. I've also done coolant and brake fluids, though only once (@55k). I usually have my local shop SpeedElement (www.speedelement.com) do this work, but it was also done at the dealer when I had the tranny rebuilt/clutch replaced. Total fluid replacement costs since I bought it: ~$400.
Brakes/tires: As you probably know, this is the most expensive maintenance group for the 'vo. Specifically, tires. I burn through them every year, sometimes in 10 months, at 10-12k miles. I used to hunt down Advan A046's on this very forum, but they've become impossible to find. I switched directly to Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec (currently running them as 245/40/17; yes you do notice the extra 10mm of rubber!). At appx $180/tire, it's a yearly cost of about $1000 installed including alignment.
Brakes, well, I've had my troubles. I seem to warp rotors like no one else, one stoptech slotted set (1-piece) only lasted 2000 miles before they warped. Since the Evo steering is so sensitive, you really notice any slight warping, and it just gets worse and worse. I've just bought a pair of Baer Eradispeed Plus front rotors and some PMu HP+C pads, so hopefully that will stave off warping for me. I probably average new brakes every 1-1.5yrs. Obviously this most recent setup is pretty expensive at about $850 installed, whereas before I was buying rotors for $300 and pads for $100. For me, I figure average yearly cost of ~$600 for brakes. This time around, I'll at least have something more stout to stand up to my heavy foot/late braking mentality. (edit: this is for front brakes; my rear brakes have only needed replacement once (rotors) and twice for pads).
Timing belt: Had it replaced @ 55k at San Rafael Mitsu because they already had everything apart. Easily cut the cost down by 80%; part was about $100 while the labor was about $150.
edit: they also replaced the associated parts (tensioner stuff? I can't remember...)
Other random items:
Bulbs, floor mats -- minor stuff. Really that's about it. Not too bad for a high-strung street "race" car.
My front windshield has been cracked (starting from a rock chip) at the bottom near the pass-side airbag. In 3 years, it hasn't expanded at all. I attribute this to the stiffness of the ct9a chassis, also confirmed by the fact that my rear inside wheel lifts off the ground everytime I go through the bank parking lot entrance.
Hardships
Indeed there have been dark times in my IX's lifetime. It started with notchy 1-2 shifting @20k, then ended up as near-100% 1st-gear lockout by 50k. Under warranty, San Rafael diagnosed it as bad synchros and gutted my transmission. They actually ended up replacing all the syncs and gears, and some other ancillary parts in there. At the same time, my original clutch @ 55k had an estimated 30-35% left on it, so we replaced that along with the pressure plate. I never launch or spin the clutch, and I try very hard to keep it below 1200rpm when leaving the line, so it's safe to say I'm pretty easy on it. My '03 had the orig clutch all the way through 65k when I traded it in, as a point of reference. I chalked this issue up to standard manufacturing deviations/issues for Evo trannys, no big deal under warranty. Smooth as butter when I finally got 'er back.
Another issue was a rattling downpipe @ ~40k. Diagnosis was to replace it, also under warranty, and the issue went away.
In 2009, I hit an insane pothole (totally Caltrans' fault, to which of course they would not admit nor would they help me, asshats). If you're familiar with the 880/92 interchange here in the bay area, and its recent construction nightmare, you know where I got into trubbs. Ended up bending two wheels, front d-side LCA, front d-side drive axle, and possibly more. Amazingly the Dunlops did not bubble, and I imagine they could have still been used though I had them replaced anyhow. I am still replacing parts to this day, DO NOT HIT POTHOLES. DO NOT TRUST STANDING WATER IN A CONSTRUCTION ZONE! About $5k of insurance money and $500 of my own later, and thankfully, we're closing in on it at SpeedElement though it's now on my dime completely. I have a used front sub-frame coming in this week so we can start replacing more parts, as we believe the issue is now isolated to something within the steering rack. Incidentally, it's just a noise that's happening, nothing functionally wrong (yet), but I want things back to 100%. So we'll replace the rack, the hubs, the bearings, end links, knuckles, and anything else we can salvage from this sub-frame (which has 55k on it). I have great confidence in Tril & Devin figuring this out @ SpeedElement.
During this trouble-shooting, we discovered both my front shocks were leaking oil (~100k miles). Sweet, I've been waiting for this since day 1 -- an excuse for an aftermarket suspension! I've dreamt of Ohlins since I first laid eyes on their golden engineering perfection, so that was the natural choice. All I can say is, dad-gummit these things are amazing. It transformed the car from a slightly-sloppy-tipsy-turvy ride to one which just soaks up the small stuff, reacts fast to the big stuff, and sits STRONG through the corners. Amazing flatness, amazing turn-in and mid-turn response. It's just, amazing. And it looks legit as hell now that it's not sitting all 4x4 on me. Mostly, I just can't believe that you can lower a car AND get better ride comfort and response out of it. Ohlins does it right.
Then there was one random code thrown, p0204, @ ~90k. I chalked this up to my intake / hard cornering / low tank of fuel. I've since removed the intake (HKS RS) so I could get back some of that initial/mid-range torque.
I also blew a tire once, and was able to successfully use the donut to get home / to the shop, and the stock jack. I still carry these everyday, I will not remove them simply for weight savings, they are too valuable. Ask yourself, do you want to wait 2-3 hours for a tow truck? I don't.
The Good Times
Man, they are just too many to list. You know what I'm talking about... that very ego-inflating feeling of passing highway-doddlers on off-ramps too scared to go more than 40mph; the exhilaration of making a mountain road seemingly 'uncurve' before your eyes as you push the car through its paces; the feeling of a cold night's air spooling up like mad as you're bombing down an on-ramp WOT... what a stark difference from those hot afternoons sitting in traffic.
Of course the ct9a design is getting a little dated, but most people still marvel at the way this car looks. I'm now 30, going on 31 this month, and I still feel like a little kid when I get in the driver's seat. It's really an uplifting daily experience to drive.
Let us not forget that the Evo topped resale values in what, 2007-2008? Resale value is huge if you're buying a car, though now I'm not so sure I care since I plan to keep it indefinitely. Point is, 6.5years later, the car is still worth ~$14k (~45%) trade-in and nearly impossible to find (demand is high!). If you've got a good/excellent-condition Evo, you're in good shape!
The Future
So right now the car is nearly stock, save the coil-overs and muffler delete. I intend to put my HKS RS intake back on (LOVE the sound!
), but not until I get a tune for this thing. I found that the intake, whilst robbing you of precious low-end/mid-range torque, does highly improve the top-end power production (almost negating boost taper). In theory, I think this is related to the fuel mixture leaning out a bit, but I have no proof of this.
Tuning aside, a full TBE is in order as well as some cams and perhaps, just maybe, a turbo upgrade. My target is to get to 400whp as a DD on the stock turbo, but I'm not sure if that's realistic. We'll see as time goes on... oh and more suspension upgrades (whiteline front 26mm) and new two-piece brakes coming this week.
Summary (aka tl;dr)
To sum it up, it's been a hell of a car to own for the past 6+ years. Plenty of looks, plenty of power, more than enough handling, minimal troubles. It's a great package as we all know. Just be forewarned: maintenance is important and costly, way more so than "mods", so do your maintenance and keep your car up to par, and it will reward you in time. Keep a maintenance budget/fund, you'll be glad you did.
Here she is, along with her predecessor:
Fast forward from 03->06, I traded the '03 with 60k @ Stevens Creek Mitsu (now defunct, Hyundai or something) for this gorgeous GG IX with 6 miles on the odo. Got a great deal, well under MSRP with taxes and all (~32k OTD). Just paid 'er off last month actually, so very befitting timing given my 100k tick-over (it actually happened on my way home from the financing company). Yes, this and the prior car are/were DDs.
So, let's get into this, for all you who may be curious about how Evo ownership can be trying, and how it can be rewarding.
Maintenance
I do most of my own maintenance. I keep all my oil filter/oil receipts, and any other fluids I may need along the way. There was a point where I thought I'd trade this car in someday, but now I feel since it's paid off I should just roll with it as long as I can, maybe turn her into a track monster one day as she was always intended.
Some figures:
Oil changes: I don't skimp on this, every 3000-3500 miles without fail. So we're on something like oil change #33 at this point. I've always stuck with M1 synthetic despite the various findings on other oils, mostly because the stock oil cap is branded as such. It works, what can I say. Avg $40 per oil change, so ~$1200 in oil and filters alone. I'm now using their 5w30 "high mileage" full-synth.
Other fluids: As I said I've changed the diff and acd/tranny fluids every 50k or so, and I'm on my 2nd run now. I don't experience any of the ridiculous noise/whine or clunks that my '03 displayed. Sure once in a while a sharp shift to 2nd will net me a rear diff clunk, but it's no big deal. I've also done coolant and brake fluids, though only once (@55k). I usually have my local shop SpeedElement (www.speedelement.com) do this work, but it was also done at the dealer when I had the tranny rebuilt/clutch replaced. Total fluid replacement costs since I bought it: ~$400.
Brakes/tires: As you probably know, this is the most expensive maintenance group for the 'vo. Specifically, tires. I burn through them every year, sometimes in 10 months, at 10-12k miles. I used to hunt down Advan A046's on this very forum, but they've become impossible to find. I switched directly to Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec (currently running them as 245/40/17; yes you do notice the extra 10mm of rubber!). At appx $180/tire, it's a yearly cost of about $1000 installed including alignment.
Brakes, well, I've had my troubles. I seem to warp rotors like no one else, one stoptech slotted set (1-piece) only lasted 2000 miles before they warped. Since the Evo steering is so sensitive, you really notice any slight warping, and it just gets worse and worse. I've just bought a pair of Baer Eradispeed Plus front rotors and some PMu HP+C pads, so hopefully that will stave off warping for me. I probably average new brakes every 1-1.5yrs. Obviously this most recent setup is pretty expensive at about $850 installed, whereas before I was buying rotors for $300 and pads for $100. For me, I figure average yearly cost of ~$600 for brakes. This time around, I'll at least have something more stout to stand up to my heavy foot/late braking mentality. (edit: this is for front brakes; my rear brakes have only needed replacement once (rotors) and twice for pads).
Timing belt: Had it replaced @ 55k at San Rafael Mitsu because they already had everything apart. Easily cut the cost down by 80%; part was about $100 while the labor was about $150.
edit: they also replaced the associated parts (tensioner stuff? I can't remember...)
Other random items:
Bulbs, floor mats -- minor stuff. Really that's about it. Not too bad for a high-strung street "race" car.
My front windshield has been cracked (starting from a rock chip) at the bottom near the pass-side airbag. In 3 years, it hasn't expanded at all. I attribute this to the stiffness of the ct9a chassis, also confirmed by the fact that my rear inside wheel lifts off the ground everytime I go through the bank parking lot entrance.
Hardships
Indeed there have been dark times in my IX's lifetime. It started with notchy 1-2 shifting @20k, then ended up as near-100% 1st-gear lockout by 50k. Under warranty, San Rafael diagnosed it as bad synchros and gutted my transmission. They actually ended up replacing all the syncs and gears, and some other ancillary parts in there. At the same time, my original clutch @ 55k had an estimated 30-35% left on it, so we replaced that along with the pressure plate. I never launch or spin the clutch, and I try very hard to keep it below 1200rpm when leaving the line, so it's safe to say I'm pretty easy on it. My '03 had the orig clutch all the way through 65k when I traded it in, as a point of reference. I chalked this issue up to standard manufacturing deviations/issues for Evo trannys, no big deal under warranty. Smooth as butter when I finally got 'er back.
Another issue was a rattling downpipe @ ~40k. Diagnosis was to replace it, also under warranty, and the issue went away.
In 2009, I hit an insane pothole (totally Caltrans' fault, to which of course they would not admit nor would they help me, asshats). If you're familiar with the 880/92 interchange here in the bay area, and its recent construction nightmare, you know where I got into trubbs. Ended up bending two wheels, front d-side LCA, front d-side drive axle, and possibly more. Amazingly the Dunlops did not bubble, and I imagine they could have still been used though I had them replaced anyhow. I am still replacing parts to this day, DO NOT HIT POTHOLES. DO NOT TRUST STANDING WATER IN A CONSTRUCTION ZONE! About $5k of insurance money and $500 of my own later, and thankfully, we're closing in on it at SpeedElement though it's now on my dime completely. I have a used front sub-frame coming in this week so we can start replacing more parts, as we believe the issue is now isolated to something within the steering rack. Incidentally, it's just a noise that's happening, nothing functionally wrong (yet), but I want things back to 100%. So we'll replace the rack, the hubs, the bearings, end links, knuckles, and anything else we can salvage from this sub-frame (which has 55k on it). I have great confidence in Tril & Devin figuring this out @ SpeedElement.
During this trouble-shooting, we discovered both my front shocks were leaking oil (~100k miles). Sweet, I've been waiting for this since day 1 -- an excuse for an aftermarket suspension! I've dreamt of Ohlins since I first laid eyes on their golden engineering perfection, so that was the natural choice. All I can say is, dad-gummit these things are amazing. It transformed the car from a slightly-sloppy-tipsy-turvy ride to one which just soaks up the small stuff, reacts fast to the big stuff, and sits STRONG through the corners. Amazing flatness, amazing turn-in and mid-turn response. It's just, amazing. And it looks legit as hell now that it's not sitting all 4x4 on me. Mostly, I just can't believe that you can lower a car AND get better ride comfort and response out of it. Ohlins does it right.
Then there was one random code thrown, p0204, @ ~90k. I chalked this up to my intake / hard cornering / low tank of fuel. I've since removed the intake (HKS RS) so I could get back some of that initial/mid-range torque.
I also blew a tire once, and was able to successfully use the donut to get home / to the shop, and the stock jack. I still carry these everyday, I will not remove them simply for weight savings, they are too valuable. Ask yourself, do you want to wait 2-3 hours for a tow truck? I don't.
The Good Times
Man, they are just too many to list. You know what I'm talking about... that very ego-inflating feeling of passing highway-doddlers on off-ramps too scared to go more than 40mph; the exhilaration of making a mountain road seemingly 'uncurve' before your eyes as you push the car through its paces; the feeling of a cold night's air spooling up like mad as you're bombing down an on-ramp WOT... what a stark difference from those hot afternoons sitting in traffic.
Of course the ct9a design is getting a little dated, but most people still marvel at the way this car looks. I'm now 30, going on 31 this month, and I still feel like a little kid when I get in the driver's seat. It's really an uplifting daily experience to drive.
Let us not forget that the Evo topped resale values in what, 2007-2008? Resale value is huge if you're buying a car, though now I'm not so sure I care since I plan to keep it indefinitely. Point is, 6.5years later, the car is still worth ~$14k (~45%) trade-in and nearly impossible to find (demand is high!). If you've got a good/excellent-condition Evo, you're in good shape!
The Future
So right now the car is nearly stock, save the coil-overs and muffler delete. I intend to put my HKS RS intake back on (LOVE the sound!
), but not until I get a tune for this thing. I found that the intake, whilst robbing you of precious low-end/mid-range torque, does highly improve the top-end power production (almost negating boost taper). In theory, I think this is related to the fuel mixture leaning out a bit, but I have no proof of this.Tuning aside, a full TBE is in order as well as some cams and perhaps, just maybe, a turbo upgrade. My target is to get to 400whp as a DD on the stock turbo, but I'm not sure if that's realistic. We'll see as time goes on... oh and more suspension upgrades (whiteline front 26mm) and new two-piece brakes coming this week.
Summary (aka tl;dr)
To sum it up, it's been a hell of a car to own for the past 6+ years. Plenty of looks, plenty of power, more than enough handling, minimal troubles. It's a great package as we all know. Just be forewarned: maintenance is important and costly, way more so than "mods", so do your maintenance and keep your car up to par, and it will reward you in time. Keep a maintenance budget/fund, you'll be glad you did.
Here she is, along with her predecessor:
Originally Posted by Original feeler post before I wrote this review...
Anyone interested in a 100k mileage review of my 06 IX?
I have quite a long story and many details stored up in my head, which I'd be willing to put down in a lengthy post here if there's any interest. Some topics I'd like to cover:
- maintenance items / costs, depreciation, market availability
- odb codes thrown
- issues with stock parts
- interior and mechanical "refreshing"
- any q&a ya'll may have
If not, suffice it to say I'm one happy 100k+ owner and this is my 2nd evo (previous was an '03 p0300 nightmare). I've daily-driven these cars for the last 9 years.
Mods: if this feeler thread is in violation of any new forum rules, hit me up I'm happy to move/delete it.
I have quite a long story and many details stored up in my head, which I'd be willing to put down in a lengthy post here if there's any interest. Some topics I'd like to cover:
- maintenance items / costs, depreciation, market availability
- odb codes thrown
- issues with stock parts
- interior and mechanical "refreshing"
- any q&a ya'll may have
If not, suffice it to say I'm one happy 100k+ owner and this is my 2nd evo (previous was an '03 p0300 nightmare). I've daily-driven these cars for the last 9 years.
Mods: if this feeler thread is in violation of any new forum rules, hit me up I'm happy to move/delete it.
Last edited by webguy330i; Oct 24, 2012 at 06:11 PM.
Thread Starter
Evolved Member
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,797
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From: San Jose, CA
Curious, what was the final solution? I used the vishnu solution of plugging in my code reader and allowing it to reset automatically all the time. Not good for smog obviously.
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A review would be good. I know there is one from someone in the 250k mile range, don't know if it is as in depth as yours.
A little review of Transmission/transfercase issues if any is always interesting to here. I want to know if this is a DD? how many miles on your clutch, if stock? how many clutches have you installed at this 100K mark? And most importantly to me transfercase hiccups you've experienced with both your 03' and 06.'
A little review of Transmission/transfercase issues if any is always interesting to here. I want to know if this is a DD? how many miles on your clutch, if stock? how many clutches have you installed at this 100K mark? And most importantly to me transfercase hiccups you've experienced with both your 03' and 06.'
Honestly I liked my 03 better :/ I miss it!
Thread Starter
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From: San Jose, CA
Alright all, great feedback. I will be compiling my review and addressing all these questions as much as I can. Some spoilers:
- 2nd clutch
- transmission rebuilt by San Rafael Mitsu @ 55k
- all stock except for: Buschur muffler delete, Ohlins DFV (oh yes, they are worth it)
- no transfer case issues, been changing fluids every 50k on all diffs as well as tranny
- in 100k miles, only one code (P0204 iirc) which never recurred after clearing
More to come!
- 2nd clutch
- transmission rebuilt by San Rafael Mitsu @ 55k
- all stock except for: Buschur muffler delete, Ohlins DFV (oh yes, they are worth it)
- no transfer case issues, been changing fluids every 50k on all diffs as well as tranny
- in 100k miles, only one code (P0204 iirc) which never recurred after clearing
More to come!
Last edited by webguy330i; Aug 10, 2012 at 11:30 AM.