basic tools
thank you! I am serious, when i want to learn something i'll always find my way of getting to learn it if its watching it through youtube, or doing it myself. thank you! still young and got 1 more year of high school after this! I'm trying to experience all the things i can that can put me out there!
ok 1/2" torque wrench it is, need the leverage for the tires anyways! can i also use it on the oil drain plug? i believe the torque is somewhere between 15 and 20 !
is this a good tool set? it's perfect for my budget and leaves me a good amount of money for a good quality torque wrench!
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-evolv...&blockType=G15
thank you! will do! it's great meeting people like you who are willing to help me out!
ok 1/2" torque wrench it is, need the leverage for the tires anyways! can i also use it on the oil drain plug? i believe the torque is somewhere between 15 and 20 !
is this a good tool set? it's perfect for my budget and leaves me a good amount of money for a good quality torque wrench!
http://www.sears.com/craftsman-evolv...&blockType=G15
thank you! will do! it's great meeting people like you who are willing to help me out!
You dont really need to torque down the oil drain plug, but if you want to, I beleive it should be around 20-30Nm, not sure what the ft. lbs. conversion is off the top of my head. 1/2" drive torque wrenches arent designed to be really accurate at the lower torque ratings, anything under 50 ft lbs its best to use a 3/8" drive, and anything over you can start using the 1/2" torque wrench.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: california
You dont really need to torque down the oil drain plug, but if you want to, I beleive it should be around 20-30Nm, not sure what the ft. lbs. conversion is off the top of my head. 1/2" drive torque wrenches arent designed to be really accurate at the lower torque ratings, anything under 50 ft lbs its best to use a 3/8" drive, and anything over you can start using the 1/2" torque wrench.
ok ill keep that in mind thanks!
you just want it nice and snug. You dont need to crank it down until the crush washer is flat. I have seen guys crank it down so tight it has cracked the oil pan. Maybe torque it down the first few times to get a feel for it if that makes it easier to learn.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: california
Ill just get a feel for how it felt web it was first tightened then try and get somewere close the check for leaks . If any ill tighten more , if not I'll leave as is
crush washer is weird. you will hit the point where the bolt feels tight, but you'll want another quarter-turn or so to actually "crush" the crushwasher (assuming you're using crushwashers and not copper washers)
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: california
and how do i tell the difference? well i know colors but any other signs of difference instead of not being the copper color?
http://m.sears.com/keyword.do?vName=...&value1=search
Any of these will work for the ratcheting wrenches.
And for the ratchets I would go with these
http://www.stanleytools.com/default....CHET+PEAR+HEAD
Any of these will work for the ratcheting wrenches.
And for the ratchets I would go with these
http://www.stanleytools.com/default....CHET+PEAR+HEAD
they look like this:
http://www.jnztuning.com/images/MD05...850e8e6a6a4547
you can see how it has that raised section around the whole thing, that's what actually crushes
when tightening you'll be able to tell when it's bottomed out, and it's still a fairly easy 1-hand turn after that you just don't want to force it. it'll be constant pressure, and then hit the point where you would actually have to apply more pressure and that's when you dont want to and are done
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: california
http://m.sears.com/keyword.do?vName=...&value1=search
Any of these will work for the ratcheting wrenches.
And for the ratchets I would go with these
http://www.stanleytools.com/default....CHET+PEAR+HEAD
Any of these will work for the ratcheting wrenches.
And for the ratchets I would go with these
http://www.stanleytools.com/default....CHET+PEAR+HEAD
i buy all the crush washers from mitsubishi. i bought like 20 of them last time i was there so i have a lifetime supply for now
they look like this:
http://www.jnztuning.com/images/MD05...850e8e6a6a4547
you can see how it has that raised section around the whole thing, that's what actually crushes
when tightening you'll be able to tell when it's bottomed out, and it's still a fairly easy 1-hand turn after that you just don't want to force it. it'll be constant pressure, and then hit the point where you would actually have to apply more pressure and that's when you dont want to and are done
they look like this:
http://www.jnztuning.com/images/MD05...850e8e6a6a4547
you can see how it has that raised section around the whole thing, that's what actually crushes
when tightening you'll be able to tell when it's bottomed out, and it's still a fairly easy 1-hand turn after that you just don't want to force it. it'll be constant pressure, and then hit the point where you would actually have to apply more pressure and that's when you dont want to and are done
i buy all the crush washers from mitsubishi. i bought like 20 of them last time i was there so i have a lifetime supply for now
they look like this:
http://www.jnztuning.com/images/MD05...850e8e6a6a4547
you can see how it has that raised section around the whole thing, that's what actually crushes
when tightening you'll be able to tell when it's bottomed out, and it's still a fairly easy 1-hand turn after that you just don't want to force it. it'll be constant pressure, and then hit the point where you would actually have to apply more pressure and that's when you dont want to and are done
they look like this:
http://www.jnztuning.com/images/MD05...850e8e6a6a4547
you can see how it has that raised section around the whole thing, that's what actually crushes
when tightening you'll be able to tell when it's bottomed out, and it's still a fairly easy 1-hand turn after that you just don't want to force it. it'll be constant pressure, and then hit the point where you would actually have to apply more pressure and that's when you dont want to and are done
I dont know if it really matters, but on crush washers I like to have the flat side (the side that doesnt crush down) against the oil pan. Anyone else do it like that or do most folks just stick that sucker on there whichever way?
Evolved Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,902
Likes: 151
From: Grand Island, NE
Since you will be working outside and in carry mode you are going to need a couple of tool boxes or maybe five gallon buckets with those apron things you can buy at Home Depot. Also, buy a cheap drop light and then replace the cord with enough that you have light where ever you are working. I used to have a 100' cord on mine.
I see too many people using 35 dollar Kmart jacks to raise cars and then they crawl under. No good. You need at least one good roll-around service jack and maybe a cheap bottle jack. Once the car is up you need jack stands. Safety is a must when working vehicles.
I see too many people using 35 dollar Kmart jacks to raise cars and then they crawl under. No good. You need at least one good roll-around service jack and maybe a cheap bottle jack. Once the car is up you need jack stands. Safety is a must when working vehicles.
Don't forget craigslist as an option for finding a deeply discounted set of tools. Don't chince on jacks and stands, can't drive dead.
Not sure of the exact name of the plier-like tool to get the clips out.
Not sure of the exact name of the plier-like tool to get the clips out.
Thread Starter
Newbie
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
From: california
Since you will be working outside and in carry mode you are going to need a couple of tool boxes or maybe five gallon buckets with those apron things you can buy at Home Depot. Also, buy a cheap drop light and then replace the cord with enough that you have light where ever you are working. I used to have a 100' cord on mine.
I see too many people using 35 dollar Kmart jacks to raise cars and then they crawl under. No good. You need at least one good roll-around service jack and maybe a cheap bottle jack. Once the car is up you need jack stands. Safety is a must when working vehicles.
I see too many people using 35 dollar Kmart jacks to raise cars and then they crawl under. No good. You need at least one good roll-around service jack and maybe a cheap bottle jack. Once the car is up you need jack stands. Safety is a must when working vehicles.
ohh! thats a no,no! the term "you get what you payed for" really matters here!... get a cheap jack, pay more fixing your car or paying the hospital bill because it crushed your foot or something (hopefully not worst than it can get). I already talked to a family member and i have access to his ramps, jacks, and roll around service jack at the ready.
Happy Holidays guys!
Most jobs on the evo can be conquered using a set of tools like Crafstman's 2XX piece portable plastic tool chest. Then go to Home Depot and buy one of their large Husky tool totes and equip it with a good set of metric wobble sockets (8-19mm) a breaker bar, pry bars, multimeter, and miscellaneous screwdrivers/pliers.
