My used Evo story (bringing it back to life)
progress update...
Just a quick update
I built a boost tester and hooked it up. Tried to regulate my compressor to below 20lbs. So right off the Throttle body and lower injector seals where making so much more you could not hear any other leaks.
I did the Throttle body with the Works seal kit, not terrible hard but a bit tricky getting those tiny shaft seals both out and back in.
I ordered the upper injector seals by mistake but after reading the forum it seemed that you should do both upper and lower. I wanted to get the car back together but the single Mitsubishi dealer in Sacramento area had none of course. I ran the Mitsu Part number by my Dodge dealer and 4 on the shelf.
Replaced the seals and the swapped my IAC out with a low mileage used unit (newer style) I got from a forum member. I did not touch the BISS since I do not have a ODBII cable yet.
I also cleaned the MAF sensor.
No more boost leak, all other pipes connections seem fine.
Car idles fine now, no more up and down or instability. Still a bit differant from a "normal" car but I attribute that to the cams. No sure what exactly was the major "fix". I did too many things at once.
So I am a ready to chance Cali smog test now.
Notes on driving the the car....
Throw-out bearing is toast, I guess when the PO put the ACT clutch in they could not spring for the T/O bearing. typical bad economy decision.
Which brings me to this ACT clutch/flywheel. It is WRONG for a street car. I adjusted the release point down which made it a little easier to shift smoothly but the thing is like a light switch, on or off. You factor in the cams, the lightened flywheel and relatively low torque at low rpm engine and its not a car I would like to spend a ton of time in traffic in. Also the ACT pedal effort is too high for a DD. My goal for the car is ~325hp. I suspect a stock cluch replacement would be a much better choice. I need to research this a bit.
I also hear a bit of drivetrain whine when off throttle, not sure if that is the T/O bearing, input shaft bearing or worse... Is it "normal"?
Other than that this car is very "fun" to drive. It has a really nice steering feel that so many other performance cars do not have. 5th gear is freeway only IMO and its great to load the wife and kids up in a fun car. My old Alfa and Porsche cars do not have 4 usable seats.
I am happy with my purchase. I got a very good deal price-wise on this car that looked great and was serviced well. However if you count up all my repairs and the upcoming clutch job/tune the price is going up. I would caution people buying modded Evo's with issues for too much money. This is a high-maintenance car and any deferred maintenance costs will add up to get it right....
thanks for all the help
Daron
I built a boost tester and hooked it up. Tried to regulate my compressor to below 20lbs. So right off the Throttle body and lower injector seals where making so much more you could not hear any other leaks.
I did the Throttle body with the Works seal kit, not terrible hard but a bit tricky getting those tiny shaft seals both out and back in.
I ordered the upper injector seals by mistake but after reading the forum it seemed that you should do both upper and lower. I wanted to get the car back together but the single Mitsubishi dealer in Sacramento area had none of course. I ran the Mitsu Part number by my Dodge dealer and 4 on the shelf.
Replaced the seals and the swapped my IAC out with a low mileage used unit (newer style) I got from a forum member. I did not touch the BISS since I do not have a ODBII cable yet.
I also cleaned the MAF sensor.
No more boost leak, all other pipes connections seem fine.
Car idles fine now, no more up and down or instability. Still a bit differant from a "normal" car but I attribute that to the cams. No sure what exactly was the major "fix". I did too many things at once.
So I am a ready to chance Cali smog test now.
Notes on driving the the car....
Throw-out bearing is toast, I guess when the PO put the ACT clutch in they could not spring for the T/O bearing. typical bad economy decision.
Which brings me to this ACT clutch/flywheel. It is WRONG for a street car. I adjusted the release point down which made it a little easier to shift smoothly but the thing is like a light switch, on or off. You factor in the cams, the lightened flywheel and relatively low torque at low rpm engine and its not a car I would like to spend a ton of time in traffic in. Also the ACT pedal effort is too high for a DD. My goal for the car is ~325hp. I suspect a stock cluch replacement would be a much better choice. I need to research this a bit.
I also hear a bit of drivetrain whine when off throttle, not sure if that is the T/O bearing, input shaft bearing or worse... Is it "normal"?
Other than that this car is very "fun" to drive. It has a really nice steering feel that so many other performance cars do not have. 5th gear is freeway only IMO and its great to load the wife and kids up in a fun car. My old Alfa and Porsche cars do not have 4 usable seats.
I am happy with my purchase. I got a very good deal price-wise on this car that looked great and was serviced well. However if you count up all my repairs and the upcoming clutch job/tune the price is going up. I would caution people buying modded Evo's with issues for too much money. This is a high-maintenance car and any deferred maintenance costs will add up to get it right....
thanks for all the help
Daron
Just a quick update
I built a boost tester and hooked it up. Tried to regulate my compressor to below 20lbs. So right off the Throttle body and lower injector seals where making so much more you could not hear any other leaks.
I did the Throttle body with the Works seal kit, not terrible hard but a bit tricky getting those tiny shaft seals both out and back in.
I ordered the upper injector seals by mistake but after reading the forum it seemed that you should do both upper and lower. I wanted to get the car back together but the single Mitsubishi dealer in Sacramento area had none of course. I ran the Mitsu Part number by my Dodge dealer and 4 on the shelf.
Replaced the seals and the swapped my IAC out with a low mileage used unit (newer style) I got from a forum member. I did not touch the BISS since I do not have a ODBII cable yet.
I also cleaned the MAF sensor.
No more boost leak, all other pipes connections seem fine.
Car idles fine now, no more up and down or instability. Still a bit differant from a "normal" car but I attribute that to the cams. No sure what exactly was the major "fix". I did too many things at once.
So I am a ready to chance Cali smog test now.
Notes on driving the the car....
Throw-out bearing is toast, I guess when the PO put the ACT clutch in they could not spring for the T/O bearing. typical bad economy decision.
Which brings me to this ACT clutch/flywheel. It is WRONG for a street car. I adjusted the release point down which made it a little easier to shift smoothly but the thing is like a light switch, on or off. You factor in the cams, the lightened flywheel and relatively low torque at low rpm engine and its not a car I would like to spend a ton of time in traffic in. Also the ACT pedal effort is too high for a DD. My goal for the car is ~325hp. I suspect a stock cluch replacement would be a much better choice. I need to research this a bit.
I also hear a bit of drivetrain whine when off throttle, not sure if that is the T/O bearing, input shaft bearing or worse... Is it "normal"?
Other than that this car is very "fun" to drive. It has a really nice steering feel that so many other performance cars do not have. 5th gear is freeway only IMO and its great to load the wife and kids up in a fun car. My old Alfa and Porsche cars do not have 4 usable seats.
I am happy with my purchase. I got a very good deal price-wise on this car that looked great and was serviced well. However if you count up all my repairs and the upcoming clutch job/tune the price is going up. I would caution people buying modded Evo's with issues for too much money. This is a high-maintenance car and any deferred maintenance costs will add up to get it right....
thanks for all the help
Daron
I built a boost tester and hooked it up. Tried to regulate my compressor to below 20lbs. So right off the Throttle body and lower injector seals where making so much more you could not hear any other leaks.
I did the Throttle body with the Works seal kit, not terrible hard but a bit tricky getting those tiny shaft seals both out and back in.
I ordered the upper injector seals by mistake but after reading the forum it seemed that you should do both upper and lower. I wanted to get the car back together but the single Mitsubishi dealer in Sacramento area had none of course. I ran the Mitsu Part number by my Dodge dealer and 4 on the shelf.
Replaced the seals and the swapped my IAC out with a low mileage used unit (newer style) I got from a forum member. I did not touch the BISS since I do not have a ODBII cable yet.
I also cleaned the MAF sensor.
No more boost leak, all other pipes connections seem fine.
Car idles fine now, no more up and down or instability. Still a bit differant from a "normal" car but I attribute that to the cams. No sure what exactly was the major "fix". I did too many things at once.
So I am a ready to chance Cali smog test now.
Notes on driving the the car....
Throw-out bearing is toast, I guess when the PO put the ACT clutch in they could not spring for the T/O bearing. typical bad economy decision.
Which brings me to this ACT clutch/flywheel. It is WRONG for a street car. I adjusted the release point down which made it a little easier to shift smoothly but the thing is like a light switch, on or off. You factor in the cams, the lightened flywheel and relatively low torque at low rpm engine and its not a car I would like to spend a ton of time in traffic in. Also the ACT pedal effort is too high for a DD. My goal for the car is ~325hp. I suspect a stock cluch replacement would be a much better choice. I need to research this a bit.
I also hear a bit of drivetrain whine when off throttle, not sure if that is the T/O bearing, input shaft bearing or worse... Is it "normal"?
Other than that this car is very "fun" to drive. It has a really nice steering feel that so many other performance cars do not have. 5th gear is freeway only IMO and its great to load the wife and kids up in a fun car. My old Alfa and Porsche cars do not have 4 usable seats.
I am happy with my purchase. I got a very good deal price-wise on this car that looked great and was serviced well. However if you count up all my repairs and the upcoming clutch job/tune the price is going up. I would caution people buying modded Evo's with issues for too much money. This is a high-maintenance car and any deferred maintenance costs will add up to get it right....
thanks for all the help
Daron
Nice to see you are taking care of all the details on the car. I have a guy in Sac that can do the clutch for a VERY reasonable price if needed. GL with it.
If the whine isnt getting louder as you drive then I wouldnt worry about it. Just go around and check all your fluids in your gearboxes for kicks.
So I failed California smog on 1st attempt. Idle hydrocarbons where 225 (100 allowed) All other numbers very clean.
I put the stock camshafts which came with the car back in and passed. Hydrocarbons down to 17.
When i researched this on many forums I read a bunch of posts about people passing with 272's as long as you had the stock cat on the car. After I failed i searched more and found a few california folks saying no way 272's will pass.
So anyway for me they are a pass. As soon as I have enough post points I am going to try to trade them to somebody in the classifieds for some milder cams. I need to research some more and see if there any that pass CA smog.
I suppose some combo of tune/cam timing might pass with the 272's. If the results where closer I might have been inclined to try. But stressing on smog every 2 years is no fun so it stock for now!
Now at least DMV will accept my paperwork for title change. It appears that DMV will take your $$ but will not take your paperwork/old title till you pass smog. Nice!
Daron
I put the stock camshafts which came with the car back in and passed. Hydrocarbons down to 17.
When i researched this on many forums I read a bunch of posts about people passing with 272's as long as you had the stock cat on the car. After I failed i searched more and found a few california folks saying no way 272's will pass.
So anyway for me they are a pass. As soon as I have enough post points I am going to try to trade them to somebody in the classifieds for some milder cams. I need to research some more and see if there any that pass CA smog.
I suppose some combo of tune/cam timing might pass with the 272's. If the results where closer I might have been inclined to try. But stressing on smog every 2 years is no fun so it stock for now!
Now at least DMV will accept my paperwork for title change. It appears that DMV will take your $$ but will not take your paperwork/old title till you pass smog. Nice!
Daron
Weird you did not pass smog!!
I have HKS 264/272 combo and PASSED with flying colors with just my stock cat put back on..... I have a buddy with 272s (not sure of brand but NOT HKS) and he also passed with just putting on the stock cat for smog purposes.
I have HKS 264/272 combo and PASSED with flying colors with just my stock cat put back on..... I have a buddy with 272s (not sure of brand but NOT HKS) and he also passed with just putting on the stock cat for smog purposes.
updates...
I was able to speak to the prev. owner of my car. So within the last year or so they put the Vishnu Tuning level 3 kit on the car. It was then taken to FFTEC and retuned and their boost controller added. Sometime after that the head was damaged (Exhaust valves burned) I am not laying any blame in any direction I am just reporting my experience buying a used Evo. Maybe the car was driven super hard in 100 degree cali weather with crap gas, who knows...
Since i passed smog I put the Perrins exhaust (full turbo back with high flow cat) on the car. This is the first time I have run this exhaust with the engine repaired. You know the exhaust is there but its nice and quite untill you get on it. Very little drone and seems like a pretty decent exhaust that wont attract too much attention. I definately have more mid/upper end power and the car seems happier.
Car is running well but I hear a pretty pronouced whine when you let off power, not sure if its transfer case or transmission. I checked all fluids and found transfer case about 3/4 inch low. Will do a full fluid chance soon but if a bearing is making noise its probably too late...
My plan is still to trade my Kelford 272 for a mild stage 1 cam set like HKS 264 or GSC S1's and get it retuned by Boosted Tuning in Chico.
Then put in my used Stance coil-overs (KYB are blown) and schedule a track day and see what its like to drive track in a car made in the last 10 years!
cheers Daron
Since i passed smog I put the Perrins exhaust (full turbo back with high flow cat) on the car. This is the first time I have run this exhaust with the engine repaired. You know the exhaust is there but its nice and quite untill you get on it. Very little drone and seems like a pretty decent exhaust that wont attract too much attention. I definately have more mid/upper end power and the car seems happier.
Car is running well but I hear a pretty pronouced whine when you let off power, not sure if its transfer case or transmission. I checked all fluids and found transfer case about 3/4 inch low. Will do a full fluid chance soon but if a bearing is making noise its probably too late...
My plan is still to trade my Kelford 272 for a mild stage 1 cam set like HKS 264 or GSC S1's and get it retuned by Boosted Tuning in Chico.
Then put in my used Stance coil-overs (KYB are blown) and schedule a track day and see what its like to drive track in a car made in the last 10 years!
cheers Daron
Beautiful work my friend. I just recently purchased my first Evo and have been doing "minor" fixes here and there. But this is full blown maintenance! Haha goodluck with everything my man. Sounds like you have a good head on your shoulders. And if you need HKS 264's I have them in the car as I was looking for some 272's. Just need to upgrade the valve train. Regardless, it's so awesome to see a new owner really tackling this thing on! Very uplifting
Thx for the feedback
Thanks for all the positive feedback. My success with this project is greatly due to the info on this thread!
Just ordered a full diff bushing set to try and get rid of the clunk when I shift under load.
Only one other Evo at work!
Daron
Just ordered a full diff bushing set to try and get rid of the clunk when I shift under load.
Only one other Evo at work!
Daron
Tools
I bought the STM tool. One thing to consider is that if you are doing a full service including tensioner you don't need the tool. You only really need the tool if you are swapping cams without doing idlers, belt,etc...
I really line Jay's tool that locks the cams together, what time saver, much easier too.
I really line Jay's tool that locks the cams together, what time saver, much easier too.
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