Install a new oem alternator after market ones are crap. And I would replace two sensors the coolant temp sensor to the ecu and cam sensor. But I would start with the alternator also check the conector to the alternator make sure its not broken or corrosion on it

 

i would also recommend checking the connectiond that the shop spliced into when they installed the alarm. if they used those typical splice connectors to interface the module to the car wiring that could be ur problem there. those splice connectors are notorious for causing electrical nightmares. i cant even count all the times ive seen electrical problems linked to those things.

 

M8... this is a grounding issue for sure.

1. The reason it's heat based is likely because whatever ground is bad, means that ALL electrical systems that use that ground, will be funneled through the next path of least resistance. If that wire can't handle the amount of heat/current running through it, it will start melting. If there's a critical system (like the alternator's voltage regulator) on that loom, then the car will shut down.

2. The reason you can't rev past 2k could easily be because the electrical signal required to get your car over that, is being hijacked, and the systems affected (whatever they may be) are confused. OR the wiring can't handle the increased load of the faster spinning alternator.

Next.

1. This stereo shop is obviously not all it's cracked up to be, because this is a problem that (via the internet anyway) appears to be electrical, and appears to have been caused by their install. If they can't fix it, I'd probably start by asking them for a full refund, or for them to pay to have someone QUALIFIED to fix the problem, actually fix the problem.

or...

2. Have them put the car back the way they found it, and get a refund.

It's one of those things that seems really simple. Someone did electrical work, and now the car has an electrical problem. I think it'd be difficult for them to say it wasn't their fault?

3. Forget that shop, and go to ANOTHER shop telling them something to the effect that, you don't want to talk bad about another shop, but they did the work, and now there's a serious issue, and they haven't been able to find it, or fix it.

Typically, the other shop will (if they're good) use this opportunity to win a customers business for life.

Next.

1. I would suggest (if it were me anyway, I'm not sure what your tech level is) going in there yourself, and looking at the wiring. Look for melting in the housing (you may have to open up some of the loom wrapping). You should be able to FEEL if any of the wires are hot, especially if the problem had just occurred, and it's inside the car.

2. I would also go check the wiring on the alternator, and that actual loom. You may not see anything there though, because the wiring is robust, but if it senses too much voltage, it will obviously trip the over voltage relay. BUT... if you're good with a wiring diagram (which I'm not) you can follow that ground (for the alt) back, and see what other systems, if not grounded properly, could possibly start running current through that.

As daunting as all of this seems... if the shop won't/can't fix it for you, and you don't have another shop that would be willing to help, you're left with few options other than to pull it apart yourself, find the problem, and fix it.

You'll need a multimeter, and a significant amount of patience

But you should be able to find your problem... good luck.

 

Thanks ProPilot, I agree with your words as well.. it's still at a friend's shop right now, I'm going to have them replicate the problem so they can directly see what's going on and try to pinpoint the problem. The only thing that stood out to me like a sore thumb was Code P0622 which relates to the Generator FR Terminal Circuit and the ACD code may be popping up due to the ACD fuse on the positive terminal which also includes the 100Amp Alternator fuse.. so I'm definitely thinking its a bad ground or wiring issue going from ECU to alternator or alternator to battery. The stereo shop pretty much took their hands off the job after pulling the code saying it's an issue with the engine components and not their electrical work, so I don't even feel like dealing with them anymore.. if in fact I do find out through my friend that their electrical work is what's causing the issue, then I will definitely go back and make them pay for their incompetence. Either way, I ended up buying a new alternator with a lifetime warranty.. so I don't feel like I wasted too much money there I guess, and that rules out the possibility of a bad alternator.. the only other thing I'm slightly skeptical about is the aftermarket koyo radiator. Sometimes I feel that this fan is putting too much load on the alternator, and because it happens only in hot weather I was thinking the fan has to work harder which puts too much load on the mere 90 Amp alternator, but I'm gonna have to dig deeper into that.

 

I mean, it could very well be your fan, but I'd think it'd be more your wiring than the fan itself. How much current could it possibly draw? Compare that to however much current a headunit would draw... I'd have to think the stereo running would be way more just because of the speakers, and the headunit together... you know?

 

Definitely get yourself a service manual for your year model that includes the electrical trouble shooting section. It is worth its weight in gold and you will get use out of it in the future for sure. Reading a circuit and breaking it down isn't terribly difficult, just requires some patience and determination. Most manuals will instruct you how to follow the wiring diagrams at the beginning of the section.

This is definitely a ground related issue. The ACD and ABS codes are tied together given their similarities having to do with traction and braking. The Alternator is being taxed hard if its output is dropping to 9 volts. That is barely enough to run the ignition system. There is a common circuit that these components are tied into, and that circuit is being invaded by unwanted resistance and current draw from some other component. Most likely the aftermarket items you had installed. It's not to say that this stuff cant be installed on the car, it just sounds like they chose the wrong circuit to splice into. That's where the manual comes in very handy. A 12v power source and a ground being available doesn't mean just hook up and it works. Circuits are designed to handle specific currents and load ratings. Go over it and fuses either blow or the smoke is let out. I think your issue can be resolved fairly easily with a service manual from Mitsubishi, a multi meter, and a little time.

I suggest get the car to act up, then unhook your newly installed components grounds one at a time and see if the issue stops. You should have instant results if they are the culprit. Then you can use your manual to find an appropriate circuit to re-route the wires to. If they aren't responsible for the electrical demon plaguing your car, use that manual to track the beast down.

 

Hm.. we discovered that with the key in the on position, the battery light doesn't light up as it should in hot conditions, so we took the cluster out and noticed that one of the pins on the harnesses wasn't touching so we fixed that up and the voltage seems fine now, but we'll have to see what happens tomorrow after parking it in the sun again.. it'd be weird if that simple of a problem was tripping out the whole electrical system. Thanks everyone for the advice and I'll continue to look into the problem if it persists

 

You'd be surprised at how much one electrical issue can affect the whole driveability of your car. I had a 2008 Civic SI in the shop one day that had a damaged output shaft speed sensor in the transmission that was shorting out, backfeeding through the multiplex into the instrument cluster. Causing the cluster to be dim/faded and all the lcds were illuminated on the left half of the cluster only. Plus the engine wouldn't rev past 2 grand and the abs would kick in for no reason at about 15 mph. Abs issue i can see because of the sensor, but the cluster issue was weird. New sensor fixed it though. Found it with the manual. They all shared a common path through the multiplex. Keep us posted on what you got going on, we'll get it fixed.

 

Well.. solution found.. indeed it was the wiring behind the cluster for the battery light.. crazy how that made everything run like ****, future advice to other members, it's the small things that can cause the craziest issues and make you spend hundreds of dollars when its as simple of a fix as fixing a pin on a connector

 

Awesome! Glad to see this got fixed!

 

Way to go!!!! A little hard work and determination paid off. Glad to see you got this issue fixed. Electrical problems suck a** and can cause a lot of headache. Score one for the good guys. Nice work man.

 

Thanks guys ! Feels good to be running good again

 

The EXACT same problem just happened to me a few weeks back and is still happening when i leave my 2006 Evo 9 outside (in temps reaching 43C). i'll be taking my car to an electrician to check all electrical connections.

Any tips on where to look?

 

try reading

 

and what makes you think i didn't?? I checked all lights, electrical equipment, indicators and visible grounds, but couldn't find anything wrong. I am trying to narrow my search for the loose/faulty connection.

UPDATE - I took my car to an electrician and found that the car is throwing a P0622 code (this code does not illuminate the check engine light).

From the tech manual the "P0622 - Alternator FR terminal system" means "Open circuit or short-circuit in system-related circuits"