If I were to re-mod my evo with TIPS from 7 years of experience
Evolving Member
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Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 326
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From: Driving ten under in the passing lane, right turn signal on at all times.
Correct me if I am wrong, but for most street driving (meaning not repeatedly using the brakes hard) all you need is enough braking force to be able to lock up the tires.
Anything more than that is overkill, not to mention additional unsprung rotating mass. Even dedicated road racing cars use only as little brake as they can get away with, depending on the track.
Or am I missing something?
Anything more than that is overkill, not to mention additional unsprung rotating mass. Even dedicated road racing cars use only as little brake as they can get away with, depending on the track.
Or am I missing something?
I don't like repeating knowledge. I rather show you the information about modding your evo one step at a time. Look at mods $100 at a time.
All in one gauge? Only one i've really seen were DIY carputer setups which display various parameters.
Clutch STM 1 SS line
Clutch delete pill
EBC
Walbro
Injectors
TBE
TBolt clamps
LICP
9 dv
Tune
bushings
Rear sway
rear diff bushing for thump
Rear diff plate mod
Simple changes that make the biggest differences!
Nose chop if your an 8
Exterior black out headlights
Depo JDM tails or real JDM whatever budget you have
JDM Rear
Bilsteins w/swift R
Oribital relocation kit
ARC TI shift knob
9SE everything else!
All in one gauge? Only one i've really seen were DIY carputer setups which display various parameters.
Clutch STM 1 SS line
Clutch delete pill
EBC
Walbro
Injectors
TBE
TBolt clamps
LICP
9 dv
Tune
bushings
Rear sway
rear diff bushing for thump
Rear diff plate mod
Simple changes that make the biggest differences!
Nose chop if your an 8
Exterior black out headlights
Depo JDM tails or real JDM whatever budget you have
JDM Rear
Bilsteins w/swift R
Oribital relocation kit
ARC TI shift knob
9SE everything else!
Last edited by NJ_evoIXgsr; Jun 13, 2013 at 07:00 PM.
Correct me if I am wrong, but for most street driving (meaning not repeatedly using the brakes hard) all you need is enough braking force to be able to lock up the tires.
Anything more than that is overkill, not to mention additional unsprung rotating mass. Even dedicated road racing cars use only as little brake as they can get away with, depending on the track.
Or am I missing something?
Anything more than that is overkill, not to mention additional unsprung rotating mass. Even dedicated road racing cars use only as little brake as they can get away with, depending on the track.
Or am I missing something?
The Zeitronix LCD is pretty much an all-in-one display. AFR, boost, EGT + 1 other of your choice.
Bigger rotors are bigger, they don't fit the stock calipers.
The stock calipers are excellent for stopping the evo. 5100lb srt8 jeeps use the same brembos. You don't need a bigger brake kit, as said many times about a big break kit is way too big.
You can't just slap on bigger rotors without getting calipers to fit.
Bigger rotors are bigger, they don't fit the stock calipers.
The stock calipers are excellent for stopping the evo. 5100lb srt8 jeeps use the same brembos. You don't need a bigger brake kit, as said many times about a big break kit is way too big.
Bigger rotors are bigger, they don't fit the stock calipers.
The stock calipers are excellent for stopping the evo. 5100lb srt8 jeeps use the same brembos. You don't need a bigger brake kit, as said many times about a big break kit is way too big.
then it sounds like your gauge is faulty or the sensor is faulty, that's what it's for, if you know the correct oil psi your motor should be at at full operating temperature, then you'll know if your low or not, just as a temp gauge, you know its normal operating temperature when fully warmed up
I don't like repeating knowledge. I rather show you the information about modding your evo one step at a time. Look at mods $100 at a time.
All in one gauge? Only one i've really seen were DIY carputer setups which display various parameters.
Clutch STM 1 SS line
Clutch delete pill
EBC
Walbro
Injectors
TBE
TBolt clamps
LICP
9 dv
Tune
bushings
Rear sway
rear diff bushing for thump
Rear diff plate mod
Simple changes that make the biggest differences!
Nose chop if your an 8
Exterior black out headlights
Depo JDM tails or real JDM whatever budget you have
JDM Rear
Bilsteins w/swift R
Oribital relocation kit
ARC TI shift knob
9SE everything else!
All in one gauge? Only one i've really seen were DIY carputer setups which display various parameters.
Clutch STM 1 SS line
Clutch delete pill
EBC
Walbro
Injectors
TBE
TBolt clamps
LICP
9 dv
Tune
bushings
Rear sway
rear diff bushing for thump
Rear diff plate mod
Simple changes that make the biggest differences!
Nose chop if your an 8
Exterior black out headlights
Depo JDM tails or real JDM whatever budget you have
JDM Rear
Bilsteins w/swift R
Oribital relocation kit
ARC TI shift knob
9SE everything else!
then it sounds like your gauge is faulty or the sensor is faulty, that's what it's for, if you know the correct oil psi your motor should be at at full operating temperature, then you'll know if your low or not, just as a temp gauge, you know its normal operating temperature when fully warmed up
Last edited by spiXel; Jun 14, 2013 at 11:06 AM.
if your car has zero ounces of oil in it, rest assured your oil pressure gauge is going to read ZERO, if your oil is significantly low, your oil pressure gauge is going to reflect that, I'm not saying rely solely on your oil pressure gauge,(or any gauge for that matter) to know how much oil is in your engine, I'm saying you don't need to physically pull your dipstick out EVERYDAY before you drive the car to check the oil level(unless you have a known abundant leak and will require a top off daily), that's why there are gauges to monitor those pressures and fluids, i.e., temperature gauge, fuel pressure gauge, oil pressure gauge, etc...but I mean if it gives you more peace of mind physically checking the oil everyday with the dipstick, then to each his own
if your car has zero ounces of oil in it, rest assured your oil pressure gauge is going to read ZERO, if your oil is significantly low, your oil pressure gauge is going to reflect that, I'm not saying rely solely on your oil pressure gauge,(or any gauge for that matter) to know how much oil is in your engine, I'm saying you don't need to physically pull your dipstick out EVERYDAY before you drive the car to check the oil level(unless you have a known abundant leak and will require a top off daily), that's why there are gauges to monitor those pressures and fluids, i.e., temperature gauge, fuel pressure gauge, oil pressure gauge, etc...but I mean if it gives you more peace of mind physically checking the oil everyday with the dipstick, then to each his own
Its funny how everyone wants to dissect the thread when the OP CLEARLY STATED these are HIS OPINIONS, and to do research before any purchase. Its obvious he is stating what worked for him personally & decided of his own free will and time to share that experience with others who are considering modding & save them lots of headaches and wasted money....
OP thanks for trying to be a productive member of the forum. Unfortunately the people who contribute the least, tend to complain the most.
OP thanks for trying to be a productive member of the forum. Unfortunately the people who contribute the least, tend to complain the most.
Its funny how everyone wants to dissect the thread when the OP CLEARLY STATED these are HIS OPINIONS, and to do research before any purchase. Its obvious he is stating what worked for him personally & decided of his own free will and time to share that experience with others who are considering modding & save them lots of headaches and wasted money....
OP thanks for trying to be a productive member of the forum. Unfortunately the people who contribute the least, tend to complain the most.
OP thanks for trying to be a productive member of the forum. Unfortunately the people who contribute the least, tend to complain the most.

Definitely agree about those certain members, but it's unavoidable. I just hope some people can gain some knowledge from my experiences.
ID2000cc injectors... bigger injectors typically result in worse idle control, worse cold start and if the injectors are big enough the idle and cruising AFRs will be overly rich. I don't recommend anyone go to ID2000cc unless they are doing a full build with a large turbo. I don't think most people can recommend going to larger injectors from stock unless you are going to run E85 or are over 360awhp.
BBK. Well, I think a lot of people in this thread have already nailed on this. A lot of people who race their car don't go to bigger brakes. Braking really comes down to tire grip and if you are running a pad that can't trigger ABS then you need some better pads. Bigger rotors also means more rotating mass making the car slower and less mpg for no real gain.
But, you know... kudos to you for putting your opinion out there for all of us to rail on.








