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If I were to re-mod my evo with TIPS from 7 years of experience

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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 06:41 PM
  #16  
mrowka's Avatar
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From: Driving ten under in the passing lane, right turn signal on at all times.
Correct me if I am wrong, but for most street driving (meaning not repeatedly using the brakes hard) all you need is enough braking force to be able to lock up the tires.

Anything more than that is overkill, not to mention additional unsprung rotating mass. Even dedicated road racing cars use only as little brake as they can get away with, depending on the track.

Or am I missing something?
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 06:56 PM
  #17  
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I don't like repeating knowledge. I rather show you the information about modding your evo one step at a time. Look at mods $100 at a time.

All in one gauge? Only one i've really seen were DIY carputer setups which display various parameters.

Clutch STM 1 SS line
Clutch delete pill
EBC
Walbro
Injectors
TBE
TBolt clamps
LICP
9 dv
Tune

bushings
Rear sway
rear diff bushing for thump
Rear diff plate mod

Simple changes that make the biggest differences!
Nose chop if your an 8
Exterior black out headlights
Depo JDM tails or real JDM whatever budget you have
JDM Rear
Bilsteins w/swift R

Oribital relocation kit
ARC TI shift knob
9SE everything else!

Last edited by NJ_evoIXgsr; Jun 13, 2013 at 07:00 PM.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 07:09 PM
  #18  
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From: Gatineau, Quebec, Canada
Originally Posted by mrowka
Correct me if I am wrong, but for most street driving (meaning not repeatedly using the brakes hard) all you need is enough braking force to be able to lock up the tires.

Anything more than that is overkill, not to mention additional unsprung rotating mass. Even dedicated road racing cars use only as little brake as they can get away with, depending on the track.

Or am I missing something?
Yep, that's exactly what I'm saying. 100% agree with you.

Originally Posted by NJ_evoIXgsr
All in one gauge? Only one i've really seen were DIY carputer setups which display various parameters.
The Zeitronix LCD is pretty much an all-in-one display. AFR, boost, EGT + 1 other of your choice.
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Old Jun 13, 2013 | 07:39 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by spiXel
Bigger rotors have a longer radius.
Longer radius means the braking surface is further from the hub.
Further from the hub means more leverage.

If you have money I would suggest a big brake kit, but just rotors is good if you don't have the money.
You can't just slap on bigger rotors without getting calipers to fit.
Bigger rotors are bigger, they don't fit the stock calipers.
The stock calipers are excellent for stopping the evo. 5100lb srt8 jeeps use the same brembos. You don't need a bigger brake kit, as said many times about a big break kit is way too big.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 10:19 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by SaulHudson
You can't just slap on bigger rotors without getting calipers to fit.
Bigger rotors are bigger, they don't fit the stock calipers.
The stock calipers are excellent for stopping the evo. 5100lb srt8 jeeps use the same brembos. You don't need a bigger brake kit, as said many times about a big break kit is way too big.
A big brake kit may be overkill for certain power levels I agree, but I would upgrade them sooner rather than later depending on the amount of power you're putting down. As I stated in the beginning these are my personal recommendations from my experience. And you're right bigger rotors don't fit the stock calipers, you'd need a BBK.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 10:43 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by spiXel
I have an oil pressure gauge and it does not tell you when your oil is low.
then it sounds like your gauge is faulty or the sensor is faulty, that's what it's for, if you know the correct oil psi your motor should be at at full operating temperature, then you'll know if your low or not, just as a temp gauge, you know its normal operating temperature when fully warmed up
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 10:54 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by NJ_evoIXgsr
I don't like repeating knowledge. I rather show you the information about modding your evo one step at a time. Look at mods $100 at a time.

All in one gauge? Only one i've really seen were DIY carputer setups which display various parameters.

Clutch STM 1 SS line
Clutch delete pill
EBC
Walbro
Injectors
TBE
TBolt clamps
LICP
9 dv
Tune

bushings
Rear sway
rear diff bushing for thump
Rear diff plate mod

Simple changes that make the biggest differences!
Nose chop if your an 8
Exterior black out headlights
Depo JDM tails or real JDM whatever budget you have
JDM Rear
Bilsteins w/swift R

Oribital relocation kit
ARC TI shift knob
9SE everything else!
Do a bit of research, there are a decent amount of all in one gauges out there. I recommend the gm-3port personally for boost but other than that it seems we are on the same page. LICP is nice sure, but the things I listed on the initial post I believe to be more important, it only adds a bit of HP which you probably won't even notice. Rear diff bushing is a good upgrade for getting rid of the thump, the rest are just cosmetic mods really other than the bilsteins which are great.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 10:58 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by 4bangn
then it sounds like your gauge is faulty or the sensor is faulty, that's what it's for, if you know the correct oil psi your motor should be at at full operating temperature, then you'll know if your low or not, just as a temp gauge, you know its normal operating temperature when fully warmed up
The oil pressure gauge is supposed to tell you your oil pressure, not how much oil you have in your car. Please do not use your oil pressure gauge to determine how much oil is in your car, that's not its purpose. Check your dipstick.

Last edited by spiXel; Jun 14, 2013 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 03:51 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by spiXel
The oil pressure gauge is supposed to tell you your oil pressure, not how much oil you have in your car. Please do not use your oil pressure gauge to determine how much oil is in your car, that's not its purpose. Check your dipstick.
if your car has zero ounces of oil in it, rest assured your oil pressure gauge is going to read ZERO, if your oil is significantly low, your oil pressure gauge is going to reflect that, I'm not saying rely solely on your oil pressure gauge,(or any gauge for that matter) to know how much oil is in your engine, I'm saying you don't need to physically pull your dipstick out EVERYDAY before you drive the car to check the oil level(unless you have a known abundant leak and will require a top off daily), that's why there are gauges to monitor those pressures and fluids, i.e., temperature gauge, fuel pressure gauge, oil pressure gauge, etc...but I mean if it gives you more peace of mind physically checking the oil everyday with the dipstick, then to each his own
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 05:28 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by 4bangn
if your car has zero ounces of oil in it, rest assured your oil pressure gauge is going to read ZERO, if your oil is significantly low, your oil pressure gauge is going to reflect that, I'm not saying rely solely on your oil pressure gauge,(or any gauge for that matter) to know how much oil is in your engine, I'm saying you don't need to physically pull your dipstick out EVERYDAY before you drive the car to check the oil level(unless you have a known abundant leak and will require a top off daily), that's why there are gauges to monitor those pressures and fluids, i.e., temperature gauge, fuel pressure gauge, oil pressure gauge, etc...but I mean if it gives you more peace of mind physically checking the oil everyday with the dipstick, then to each his own
You are right. You are free to do as you please and you can make the argument that checking your dipstick everyday is ludacris, but I won't have any oil leaks and that makes me sleep well at night. If your oil is significantly low and your gauge is reflecting that, it's likely you're already screwed. Rely on the dipstick not your pressure gauge. The oil pressure gauge is there to gauge the pressure, not to tell you how much oil is in your motor. But yes, you will probably have low oil pressure if you're very low on oil.
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Old Jun 14, 2013 | 05:36 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by spiXel
you can make the argument that checking your dipstick everyday is ludacris


vs.

Ludicrous
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Old Jun 15, 2013 | 09:45 AM
  #27  
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2000CC for a low boost tune? on a diesel sized turbo maybe you would need those.

Last edited by Andrewkbmx; Jun 15, 2013 at 09:48 AM.
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 08:37 AM
  #28  
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Its funny how everyone wants to dissect the thread when the OP CLEARLY STATED these are HIS OPINIONS, and to do research before any purchase. Its obvious he is stating what worked for him personally & decided of his own free will and time to share that experience with others who are considering modding & save them lots of headaches and wasted money....


OP thanks for trying to be a productive member of the forum. Unfortunately the people who contribute the least, tend to complain the most.
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 09:18 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by GhostAWD
Its funny how everyone wants to dissect the thread when the OP CLEARLY STATED these are HIS OPINIONS, and to do research before any purchase. Its obvious he is stating what worked for him personally & decided of his own free will and time to share that experience with others who are considering modding & save them lots of headaches and wasted money....


OP thanks for trying to be a productive member of the forum. Unfortunately the people who contribute the least, tend to complain the most.
I appreciate the feedback. At least one person gets it

Definitely agree about those certain members, but it's unavoidable. I just hope some people can gain some knowledge from my experiences.
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Old Jun 18, 2013 | 11:16 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by spiXel
Walbro 450 e85 specific fuel pump
Injector Dynamics 2000cc Injectors
BBK with slotted rotors (depending on how much power you're putting down - use your own discretion)
It's the Walbro 416lph fuel pump. I would recommend a re-wire and upgraded fuel relays when going to this pump. The walbro will be in the 15-18A range regularly and fuel pump fuse is 20A. Safety and reliability does not mean significantly decreasing the lifespan of your relays by running them on up to their thermal ability regularly. "Do it right, do it once" and all that.

ID2000cc injectors... bigger injectors typically result in worse idle control, worse cold start and if the injectors are big enough the idle and cruising AFRs will be overly rich. I don't recommend anyone go to ID2000cc unless they are doing a full build with a large turbo. I don't think most people can recommend going to larger injectors from stock unless you are going to run E85 or are over 360awhp.

BBK. Well, I think a lot of people in this thread have already nailed on this. A lot of people who race their car don't go to bigger brakes. Braking really comes down to tire grip and if you are running a pad that can't trigger ABS then you need some better pads. Bigger rotors also means more rotating mass making the car slower and less mpg for no real gain.

But, you know... kudos to you for putting your opinion out there for all of us to rail on.
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