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AFR dropped at WOT

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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 07:34 AM
  #16  
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So I didnt get a chance to try that because my new battery came in so i swapped it out...starts normal...but new issue came up...AFR has dropped even lower...to 9.9...bringing to to STM next weekend to have it checked.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 09:02 AM
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Originally Posted by Section518EVO
So I didnt get a chance to try that because my new battery came in so i swapped it out...starts normal...but new issue came up...AFR has dropped even lower...to 9.9...bringing to to STM next weekend to have it checked.
That does sound weird. If you are sure you dont have a boost leak, then i would start to suspect the Wideband sensor.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 10:46 AM
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It was my first time doing the test with a fellow X driver...we couldnt find one...but this way having STM do it will be easy to fix the problem cause I am just about clueless at this point.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 11:13 AM
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out of curiosity, how is your wideband sensor mounted in relationship to the exhaust? meaning is it at 3 o'colock, 9 o'clock or above/below? also, how many PSI did you run the leak test at?
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 01:18 PM
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To be completely honest...I have no idea how its positioned ill take a look and let you know and i did the nuetral and reved the motor from under the hood so it couldnt have been more than 5 psi at most.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 01:26 PM
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Its at 3
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 02:58 PM
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it's good to test up to what you run the car to. revving the engine won't do it. you need a pressure tester then test up to about 25psi or so. it will flush out any leaks you have. you would be surprised where you will find them. the engine can't be running either.

it's best to mount WB sensors anywhere above 9 or 3 o'clock. level or below risks the chance of condensation building up after shutdown and affecting the sensor. if you are at leat 3 o'clock, you may be okay.

you will need to do a proper pressure leak test, though. what you did wasn't a pressure test at all.

Last edited by kaj; Jun 11, 2014 at 03:18 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2014 | 03:14 PM
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You cant do a boost leak test that way. You need to use a compressor and block off the turbo inlet. You need to give it as much pressure as it sees at full boost to test for leaks. If you dont have access to a compressor then you will probably need to take it in to a shop.
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Old Jun 12, 2014 | 05:42 AM
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Thats what STM is going to do..they mentioned something about a 30 psi boost leak test
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 12:33 PM
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Turned out to be a boost leak at the injector seals...who wouldve guessed.
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Section518EVO
Turned out to be a boost leak at the injector seals...who wouldve guessed.
so are those easy to change out?
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Bhsj13
so are those easy to change out?
Yes they are very easy. Remove the fuel rail assembly and replace the seals. Shouldn't take more than an hour to swap them out. Just watch out for the injector clips because they like to fly.
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 05:02 PM
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Not too uncommon, actually. They often get torn during install, if not careful.
I usually spray carb cleaner on them after install.
Awesome that you found the issue. What a relief, I bet!
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 05:03 PM
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That's strange that you never smelled fuel in your car.but at least you know the problem.
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Old Jun 30, 2014 | 07:25 PM
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Originally Posted by egis
That's strange that you never smelled fuel in your car.but at least you know the problem.
hmm, this can cause the smell? i thought it was because of my gutted hfc.
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