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Bolts/Fasteners you've had issues with on the car. Breaking/stripping.

Old Aug 16, 2015 | 10:59 AM
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Bolts/Fasteners you've had issues with on the car. Breaking/stripping.

I've spent a bit of time in the past removing certain bolts off of my car that gave me issues.

Turbo to Exhaust Manifold bolts always sizing up and getting all corroded, making it a pita to remove, and they just look awful.

Bolts holding the rotor brake shield snapping.

Exhaust bolts were always a bit of a paint in the ***.

What's everyone's ways of battling this, especially where there is extreme heat?
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Old Aug 16, 2015 | 09:48 PM
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Keep soaking them up w/ some homemade penetrating fluid for about 3 days straight. Take a propane torch and torch the object that the bolt is seized onto and start trying to loosen the bolt. Try not to torch the bolt as it will expand and basically make your life that much harder. Also while you're trying to break the bolts loose, use some type of impact tool rather than a breaker bar because it saves the bolt from snapping. I broke a few bolts attached to the hotside of my turbo also, I had to bring it to the machine shop and re-tap or use heli-coil.

Goodluck w/ the PITA job!
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 09:12 PM
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I use 12.9 studs on my mani to turbo, no helicoils! Self threading inserts that are grade 12.9 that will hold up perfectly. Helicoils stand no chance, I hate them things for anything over 25 ftlbs
As for The stock studs Only luck I've had drilling them out is on a drill press with cobalt bits, if I had the ***** I'd use a cutting torch to make it days faster.

Last edited by blowngasket; Aug 17, 2015 at 09:15 PM.
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Old Aug 17, 2015 | 09:38 PM
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Biggest problem bolt I had was the one that seized to the bushing in the front lower control arm. It also broke the nut off it's spot in the subframe. Ended up just replacing the entire subframe and control arm.

Another major issue was 3 out of the 6 bolts broke inside the rear subframe that holds the sway bar in. I literally removed the sway bar because I couldn't bolt it back up and couldn't mount the new 27mm sway bar I got for my car. Twas a pretty sad day...
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Old Aug 18, 2015 | 02:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Piro Fyre
Biggest problem bolt I had was the one that seized to the bushing in the front lower control arm. It also broke the nut off it's spot in the subframe. Ended up just replacing the entire subframe and control arm.

Another major issue was 3 out of the 6 bolts broke inside the rear subframe that holds the sway bar in. I literally removed the sway bar because I couldn't bolt it back up and couldn't mount the new 27mm sway bar I got for my car. Twas a pretty sad day...
o, the horizontal bolt that goes through the control arm, that has a bushing on each side of it? that sucks.
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 09:51 AM
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I'm so paranoid about this, i stopped using an impact gun on anything. Obviously you gotta have some extra time on your hands though. The one time i let the guys impact my wheels on when getting tires, thinking i would just loosen and re-torque at home, they spun a wheel stud. I had to get a little creative to fix that one.
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Old Aug 19, 2015 | 07:01 PM
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My car is an 05 that has maybe 4/5 upstate NY winters on it.
I spent hours going through the engine bay and removing and replacing rusted fasteners. I think honestly half of the bolts snapped and I had to drill them out. This was with pb blaster, patience, and every level of pressure and impact imagineable. Sometimes it just comes down to luck.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 04:11 AM
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I just did a 02 housing on my 06 MR. The only thing that snapped was an 02 housing heat shield bolt. That didnt bother me at all since i wasn't reinstalling it.
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 06:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Piro Fyre
Biggest problem bolt I had was the one that seized to the bushing in the front lower control arm. It also broke the nut off it's spot in the subframe. Ended up just replacing the entire subframe and control arm.
Just had the exact same issue on both my front arms. Bought new arms, and the shop I brought it to had to cut the arms out and cut a hole into the subframe to re-weld the nut, then close the hole back up.
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