Atleast you car is starting up on warm starts. If I let my car sit for 15-30 minutes and try to start it it just cranks and cranks. It sometimes fires up, if it doesn't I remove the key and let it sit for 30 secs and put it in ignition for 6-7 secs and crank. Sometimes it fires up but sometimes it doesn't so I bring out the jumper pack and it starts every time. I have a ETS Mini bettery kit so I might end up buying a new replacement battery. The car is done for the season anyways so it will get some new parts and a retune next spring.

 

No, I haven't replaced them yet, but you're right I really need to. I'm wondering if I should stick with the 8's, or if I should go back to the 7's?

I'm confident I have exhaust leaks. Not big ones, but there are leaks. I didn't know this could contribute to the idle issue. But I'll be able to move the car in the garage soon for some work. I've wanted to take the exhaust out and get it coated anyway. It's starting to rust and I don't want to spend the money on a new system. This way when it's back I'll get all new gaskets and make sure it seals nice.

Are you saying it's because of a low voltage or low CCA issue? The negative terminal ring in the car cracked and may not be grounding very well. I wonder if that could cause the issue?

 

I have checked the terminals but not any ground wires to the body. I check it out now.

But I have cleaned up both the terminals and battery terminal, swapped it out with a brand new 35R Yellow top and it still does it. But the odd thing is when I connect my jumper it fires right up O_o.

 

Subbed for same problems!

Started out of the blue. Can't figure it out. 2 years since last tune with no changes.

 

an exhaust leak is only going to affect your AFRs if the leak is before the O2 sensor. so, if you have a leak before the sensor, that could make a difference.

i had the same issue you do. i never got it resolved before tearing the car apart. but same thing: it really hated starting when warm. if i remember right, mine would idle REALLY lean for a bit before finally settling down to idle normal.

 

Well in the very near future it's going in the garage for some maintenance. I'll seal up the exhaust leak and do a good boost leak and vacuum leak test and go from there.

 

subd same issues. i have to give it gas to start and feather it at lights. sometimes itl idle but super rich. ive tried TPS, map, plugs, even checked timing. sending some logs to aaron at english today in hope of some answers.

 

Definitely replace that cracked ground terminal, mine did the same thing and it will cause issues.

 

Thanks man. The evo will get into the garage this weekend. I'll add that to the list of repair / maintenance items.

 

did you check the O2 sensor? usually a really rich condition during closed loop is due to that. assuming it runs fine at WOT?

 

It runs fine when cruising and pretty much fine during WOT. I get some knock under certain WOT conditions, but I think that may be due to my tune.

 

Is the BISS screw set? If in too far, the car will struggle to idle.
Just tossing out ideas in case you haven't tried them yet.

 

Yea I set the BISS screw, but I will adjust it again once the car is back on the road.

 

okay. just shooting in the dark LOL. i know i set mine.. but i didn't give it long enough to cycle on EvoScan.. ended up being .784 off which probably isn't too bad. but i give it a couple cycles with the cool down fan. then wait to see what it is the first time it refreshes after the fan goes off. it take me a long time LOL

 

Right now I'm doing a few things that may help this issue. I put in new spark plugs, I'm going to run a new ground cable to the negative terminal on the battery. I am replacing all the exhaust gaskets to get rid of any leaks I have. Hopefully this should clear things up.