bluepeartype-s

iTrader: (17)

Do I need to retune or recheck my work (still plan to do)?

Story:
So, in-between working and coming home at night I finally finishing up my install on my new IC pipes. I double checked all my t-clamps for tightness. I took the car for a quick spin around the block.
Issue: Well, when I got back to the driveway the car sounded like it was choking while sitting at idle and was about the stall out. I’m pretty sure had I not given it just a bit of gas it would have died in the street.
My question is, do I need are retune because of the new IC pipes or should I go back and check everything is tighten up beyond belief.

Since my last tune I’ve also added a new:

Fujitsubo RM-01A Exhaust system
Muse Intercooler Piping (Upper and Lower)

Current mods that may matter for this question:
HKS 272’s
Apexi’ Power Intake
Megan O2 Housing
Helix Downpipe
Test pipe
Aftermarket FMIC




Any helpful suggestions will be great.




Thanks

Jonno99

I know for the LICP upgrade, it makes no difference to the tune because I've done that one, the UICP probably no too but an exhaust def yes to a tune. Also when doing pipes you always do a leak test after, put a cap on the end of the turbo intake and get some comp air down there and listen for leaks, I found a leak after just doing the LICP in a broken vac hose I never knew was there,

bluepeartype-s

iTrader: (17)

Thank you for your input I appreciate it!


I saw something on IAC...could this be a cause of that? It would seem random but, would that need replacing?

Tekniq

iTrader: (11)

I think you have a vacuum leak.
Sounds like you either didn't plug back in a vacuum hose or knocked one off by accident.

bluepeartype-s

iTrader: (17)

I'll have to take a look around tonight. Thx kindly!

Rossi_24

I would absolutely 2nd doing a BLT( Boost Leak Test ) after any type of modification like that , I agree sounds like a boost or vac leak somewhere , process of elimination start with that

Ev0ikon

iTrader: (18)

The thing about the leak is that you can't SEE it until the system is pressurized. Sorry if that sounds obvious. Do the test! :}

bluepeartype-s

iTrader: (17)

So far checked this today and can't see anything I missed. I'm going through process of moving couplers closer and tightening the T-clamps. Really hoping for no leaks.

Stupid question, can you hit each pipe and coupler with hairspray so they stick together better after tightening up?
B

Ev0ikon

iTrader: (18)

Did you actually pressurized the system or just bumbling about? Tightening the clamps won't help and sometime would make it worse.
Hairspray is great to hold the coupler to the pipe.

gsrboi80

iTrader: (38)

Did you disconnect the battery when installing the pipes?

bluepeartype-s

iTrader: (17)

Ya I did remove the battery. Sorry for lack of info. I honestly haven't had a lot of time this weekend to look at car other than walk by it to run weekend errands. :-/

gsrboi80

iTrader: (38)

May just have to relearn trims and idle man. Evos are terrible with this. Anytime I disconnect the battery it will take a few days for the idle to react normally again

Rossi_24

This ^ , I was going to second what GSR said , sometimes the computer will cause the car to be jumpy or bucky while driving before the computer relearns itself and also if you had reconnected the battery and took it out for a spin and really hammered on it that will cause it to act funny also

bluepeartype-s

iTrader: (17)

My plan today is to finish with re-tightening everything I may have overlooked and turn it the car back on and see how idles..I wished could have gotten to it this past weekend.

Rossi_24

just fire it up and let it sit and idle for a little while then take it back out drive it normally around and do a few pulls as long as everything seems to be alright with the idle and driveability