does it help that much with weight balance? how much does it weigh?

 

Corner balance an align is on Monday next week I will post up the full specs after that. Last time I scaled it, it was 2870, so I am hoping I cut another 100lbs off during all these changes.


Removed
All HVAC
Wipers
Installed CF Drive shaft, that was like 30lbs there
Removed another 10lbs of wire


Added
Optima Yellow Top
TC105N's, 3lbs less each over BBS
EVO X LCA, will all the robispec goodies

 

Here are the pics of the ACD pump in the trunk. I am still in the process of cleaning up the wiring back there and I need to make a small bracket for the pump to make it nice and stable.


You can see the solid state relays and the breaker. The ACD line is -6 and uses a bulkhead fitting to pass through the trunk to under the car. The next time I have the gas tank out I am going to switch from soft line to hard line for the fuel lines and the ACD line, but that will be a next year project.


Also next up for the evo is Drive By Wire , and yes that is a pedal and throttle body from an STi.

 

For your fuel tank, have you thought of doing something like this?
http://fcsrace.highwire.com/product/mitsubishi-evo-7-9

7.2 lbs, not sure how much the oem tank weighs.

 

Thanks for the pics. What are your thoughts on the bracket? Mine is going to be on the driverside however I'd imagine our brackets will be similar. The stock bracket is meant to hang and is 2 pieces which keeps the pump suspended and isolated from vibration with rubber bushings. The pump is bolted down in 4 places 2 on the bottom and 2 on the side next to where the line connects.

Do you think solely bolting it down with 2 bolts on the bottom will suffice? Im temped to bolt it directly to the body but also considering hacking up the stock bracket and coming up with something. Trying to keep it as simple and lightweight as possible.

Have fun with the hardline. I used 5/16 brake line and like I said prior running the line sucked hardcore. If I were to do it again I'd probably go hardline up to right around the fuel tank rear subframe area and then go braided up from there. i need to make small tweaks to my line for it to be perfect but overall glad that part is behind me as I never imagined it being as annoying as it was.

 

What is all involved in the ACD relocation? I would love to get the wires out of there. Did you run the wiring through the cabin?

 

Looks like the OP went the extra mile and relocated the relays or actually replaced them wit solid state ones. I followed the wires back to the "main" harness then snipped and extended from there. Im my case I wanted the pump on the left side in the trunk and didnt want to drill a hole through the firewall so I ran the wires out around the headlight area and tucked it behind the fender splash guard and then popped it through that side grommet and ran it along the kick panel into the trunk. The wiring is very straight forward.

Actually for the most part the entire relation is straight forward in terms of what needs to be done. Its the actual execution that can be tricky. And like I said running the line sucked and I have a 2 post lift in my garage. If you're planning on doing it on jack stands I don't see if happening. Well maybe you could get away with braided lines but no way can you get your car high enough to do proper bends with a hardline.

 

I pulled the wire harness from the headlights to the tail lights, even the one on the fuel tank. Everything was deloomed and all unused wire was depinned and removed.


After that I trimmed what ever wire I could make shorter and for any wire I did not have the correct factory pins for I would clip and solder, otherwise I would repin the wire.


For the ACD, I removed all the wire associated with it, and ran brand new tefzel wire from the ACD ECU back to the pump. I used all the factory plugs that run from the front kick panels to the trunk of the car.


I will post some more pics


Here is a thread where I found all the wire and pins


http://aemelectronics.com/?q=forum/w...r-relays-guide

 

Yeah I actually saw a thread started by you on that regarding the wire size and what not and based my wire selection because of what you wrote. I too bought tefzel wire from prowire.com and ran 2x10AWG 2x16AWG and 3x18AWG wire like you mentioned which was different than one of the writeups I found on here but seemed safer option getting higher quality wire and thicker than was was mentioned in the other thread.

I love everything that you're doing to your car so keep up the good work and I'm sure it'll be worth it in the end. Hearing how light you have made your car is making me very jealous.

 

Just put in an English racing road raced flashed acd computer and wow the lock up is way more even on the light setting. I found making slow speed tight turns to require much more rpm. So it might also be time to pull the rear diff and let shep or jacks give it a rebuild. I have been ru Ning the wier 12 plate rear for quite some time now.

Also just ordered my stoptech trophy 4pot fronts, should be here in a month