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*SOLVED* Low Idle at Operating Temperature (300 - 500 rpm)

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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 03:33 PM
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*SOLVED* Low Idle at Operating Temperature (300 - 500 rpm)

I'm reaching out for help from the evom community, I'm at my witts end.

I have an Evolution 9 MR with bolt ons and a protune from Innovative. For about 3 months now I've been trying to track down the culprit of my idle killer. After a long highway or a few good pulls, the car wants to almost die once I come to a stop. The idle drops way down. I can't figure it out.

Things I've looked at:

Boost leaks - none
Coil packs - working
MAF sensor - cleaned and looked ok
EGR - side vacuum line was off and did throw a code. I addressed the vac line and even cleaned out the EGR. No codes since.

I don't know what else it could be. I was convinced the EGR valve was the culprit but after servicing it, I went for a drive and, once again, once it got hot after a few pulls it would idle like s*it again.

Please guys help me out! T.I.A.



UPDATE!!! Sept. 05-2016

I have replaced the EGR Solenoid and after driving the car for a few days I can report that the problem is gone 100%. There have been zero idle issues since and overall the car is running a lot better. I must say it is kind of a pain to get to it, but it is located on the passenger side, under the intake manifold. It's pretty far down, right to the cylinder head. It's held on with 2 10mm bolts. You will need small tools to get in there, recommend 1/4 drive with deep sockets. My vacuum hoses were fine, but make sure there are no cracks in the lines.

I got my solenoid from Rockauto.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo....432585&jsn=315

Last edited by soderdna; Sep 5, 2016 at 02:48 PM.
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 03:53 PM
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Is your BISS set?
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 03:59 PM
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I'm going to have to say yes, because before it starts acting up it idles great at 1k.

Even with the coolant up at normal. It's only after extended highway or if I pull a few gears. Then as I come to the stop and push the clutch in, the idle goes down to 1k like normal then as the car slows down to a crawl, the idle falls right out.

The car has never died because of this issue but it's damn close
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 04:04 PM
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From: Winston Salem
The egr valve itself may be just fine. The solenoid that actuates it on the other hand, may be faulty. My car had the exact same issue, I vacuum tested my egr valve and it worked just fine. So I knew then that vacuum was being supplied to it when it shouldnt be. Your solenoid is probably hanging up and not completely blocking vacuum to the valve.
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 04:17 PM
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I've also been wondering about the solenoid. Is there any way to test it? Not that it's very expensive but I'm not one for throwing money lol.

I'm gonna try a BISS screw adjustment. That's one thing I never considered.
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 04:32 PM
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Update. I tried a BISS adj and it worked for a bit but then it did it again. Also if I press the clutch in and rev the engine out, when it comes back down it idles fine? This is stressin me huge!
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 04:36 PM
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From: Winston Salem
Originally Posted by soderdna
I've also been wondering about the solenoid. Is there any way to test it? Not that it's very expensive but I'm not one for thr8owing money lol.

I'm gonna try a BISS screw adjustment. That's one thing I never considered.
I mean I guess you could pull it off the car. Energize the solenoid and see which ports are open and closed. I just replaced mine though.
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 05:11 PM
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how does your fuel pressure look?
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 05:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Bhsj13
how does your fuel pressure look?
I don't have a fuel pressure gauge and I'm guessing you can't monitor it on evoscan?

The car makes great power all the way to 8k. Boost holds good. I'm running a walbro 255 on stock injectors. Have PTE 1200s to throw in. I haven't checked them yet but would s*itty plugs cause this? I don't have any break up so I didn't think the ignition system would be doing this.
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 05:37 PM
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Plugs are definitely worth a check. No money involved.
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Klaiceps
Plugs are definitely worth a check. No money involved.
This^^, you should log the car or have tuner re look at those idle maps. how does it do on cold start-up/idle?
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 08:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Bhsj13

This^^, you should log the car or have tuner re look at those idle maps. how does it do on cold start-up/idle?
Cold start idle is great. The problem only arises once the engine is hot. Tried adjusting the BISS some more but no luck.
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Old Aug 16, 2016 | 11:00 PM
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Why would you mess with the BISS screw if the car used to idle fine, the screw won't magically screw itself in, so that should be ruled out.

Do you have a tactrix cable? If so, I would advise you to pull your rom, go to the periphery bits and disable egr, if this solves your issuee, the solenoid is the culprit. Hope this helps you.
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Old Aug 17, 2016 | 03:30 AM
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Originally Posted by roni4g63
Why would you mess with the BISS screw if the car used to idle fine, the screw won't magically screw itself in, so that should be ruled out.

Do you have a tactrix cable? If so, I would advise you to pull your rom, go to the periphery bits and disable egr, if this solves your issuee, the solenoid is the culprit. Hope this helps you.
I was out of options. I didn't think the BISS screw would move on its own but I have a tactrix cable so I can do the idle adjustment properly. I'm going to try disabling the EGR System. Thanks
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Old Aug 22, 2016 | 09:49 AM
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UPDATE

I have replaced the EGR solenoid and it has solved the issue. Car is idling normal again even after extended driving and some hard pulls.

Last edited by soderdna; Sep 3, 2016 at 10:45 AM.
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