Expert Help Wanted
I really want to try and retard the intake gear by a tooth, is that a bad idea?
I'm probably going to order a new mivec cam gear pretty soon. I just searched the classifieds and missed out on some great deals.
I think the intake cam sensor has a separate code because I replaced that with a brand new one as well about 2 years ago. I will probably replace that sprocket at the end though.
I'm probably going to order a new mivec cam gear pretty soon. I just searched the classifieds and missed out on some great deals.
I think the intake cam sensor has a separate code because I replaced that with a brand new one as well about 2 years ago. I will probably replace that sprocket at the end though.
Just to update this thread, when I pulled the solenoid out there was some debris in it, keeping it closed. I removed the piece, changed the oil and fired it back up. It seemed to have solved my issue.
The car is still running rich (ever since I picked it up from the shop). If anything it looks like I need a new tune. I've been trying to log the fuel trims but evoscan is not picking up any data for those values. I think the scaling might be off. Its at 1125 for ID2000s on e85, but I think this value needs to be increased to lean it out. Instead of guessing a scaling value, I would like to do it the right way with the fuel trim data. Any help with that would be appreciated. AFR is around 11 during idle, sometimes it will go to 14.7 range, but it's in the rich side more often than not.
The car is still running rich (ever since I picked it up from the shop). If anything it looks like I need a new tune. I've been trying to log the fuel trims but evoscan is not picking up any data for those values. I think the scaling might be off. Its at 1125 for ID2000s on e85, but I think this value needs to be increased to lean it out. Instead of guessing a scaling value, I would like to do it the right way with the fuel trim data. Any help with that would be appreciated. AFR is around 11 during idle, sometimes it will go to 14.7 range, but it's in the rich side more often than not.
Just to update this thread, when I pulled the solenoid out there was some debris in it, keeping it closed. I removed the piece, changed the oil and fired it back up. It seemed to have solved my issue.
The car is still running rich (ever since I picked it up from the shop). If anything it looks like I need a new tune. I've been trying to log the fuel trims but evoscan is not picking up any data for those values. I think the scaling might be off. Its at 1125 for ID2000s on e85, but I think this value needs to be increased to lean it out. Instead of guessing a scaling value, I would like to do it the right way with the fuel trim data. Any help with that would be appreciated. AFR is around 11 during idle, sometimes it will go to 14.7 range, but it's in the rich side more often than not.
The car is still running rich (ever since I picked it up from the shop). If anything it looks like I need a new tune. I've been trying to log the fuel trims but evoscan is not picking up any data for those values. I think the scaling might be off. Its at 1125 for ID2000s on e85, but I think this value needs to be increased to lean it out. Instead of guessing a scaling value, I would like to do it the right way with the fuel trim data. Any help with that would be appreciated. AFR is around 11 during idle, sometimes it will go to 14.7 range, but it's in the rich side more often than not.
I just fixed a car with almost the same issue. Map sensor was intermittent. With the car running grab the MAP sensor connector and wiggle it. Up/down/left/right/in/out. Keep wiggling and see if the car reacts differently. Don't be afraid to use a little pressure while doing the wiggle. (lol?) If the idle changes any or reacts then you have found the problem. Those map sensors seem to have a high failure rate. Good luck.
I put on a 35r turbo kit and got retuned and the car is running a lot better. I didn't change anything else besides the turbo, licp, exhaust mani. I think my problem may have also been weather too. But I'm not 100% sure on the weather part bec it didn't happen to any other guys that I know.
The solenoid I'm referring to is the Mivec solenoid, but it's probably not your issue. I had something stuck in it that prevented it from opening and closing. I've had my Omni 4 bar go bad before, so it was actually one of the first things I replaced. Of course, $100 later it wasn't my issue. But at least now I have a spare to test out if I have reason to believe the 4bar craps out again.
I'm waiting to get tuned, but in the meantime I've been messing around with the rom. Something was up with my ROM, I cannot explain it, but basically I got a fresh tephra v7 rom and scaled my injectors and changed latency then flashed my car. Car ran great, idled at 14.7 and also cruised at 14.7. I copied over the rest, ignition, timing and fuel map and flashed it again and car is running great. Not going to do any pulls, because I want to get retuned, but its good to finally be able to drive my car again.
I'm waiting to get tuned, but in the meantime I've been messing around with the rom. Something was up with my ROM, I cannot explain it, but basically I got a fresh tephra v7 rom and scaled my injectors and changed latency then flashed my car. Car ran great, idled at 14.7 and also cruised at 14.7. I copied over the rest, ignition, timing and fuel map and flashed it again and car is running great. Not going to do any pulls, because I want to get retuned, but its good to finally be able to drive my car again.
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