halfnattyvictor

new to the forum, I have read through plenty of other threads, but looking to get opinions on a few matters.
clutch engagement point for oem on 2006 IX? car has 114,000 miles, clutch replaced at 40,000 seems to grab right at the top where pedal is released, I know I can mess with the rod for engagement but can this be a sign of needing to be replaced when it isn't slipping?
car has stock brake setup refurbished but aggressive brembo pads that seem to be not for street or daily use, has anyone heard anything about these? almost like they need to heat up for use and not safe for dding.
steering wheel shakes over 60mph, car has bc coilovers, 17" ccw lcm20 wheels new tie rods/aignment. newer tires, maybe the tires weren't balanced properly or possibly steering rack issue?
compression test is going to be done, im guessing comfortable numbers are 150-170 across the board. any point in doing a leakdown test? nonmodified drivetrain, boost seems to pull as it should.
looking for any pointers, did not hear tcase whine as much as I was worried about Thanks for the help.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I bought mine with 115,000 miles on it. I autocross, roadrace, and do HPDE. The car has performed awesome , no complaints.

halfnattyvictor

Awesome, how much did you pay for yours? Are you the guy in Florida with a complete built one? And how much do you think this one is worth if it was in fair to good condition on the exterior and interior and ran fine with few issues?

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I paid $16,800 for my 2006 WW MR with 115k. Four years later, I now have 130k and could probably still get that, if not more

halfnattyvictor

Sell me yours lol

evostanman

I bought mine with 95k miles. Motor completely stock, enkie wheels and swift springs. compression test was 125 all across. Took it to 5150 shop here in Santa Ana for inspection.

Depending on the results of the compression test, looks like a good buy.

half natty huh? lol Tren hard

bouncer07

Well for starters, look for anything modified. These car are so much heavily modified and the returned back to stock, these I like to look for. But knowing it had clutch replaced at 40K... I would be worried about getting a new clutch in soon. Weather it's a 5/6 speed, transmission is key. Lots of 6 speed guys usually have to rebuild their transmission before the 100K mark or buy a used transmission for replacement. Watch out for gears grinding on 3/4 gears.

If you're buying it at say $18000, you'll be forking another $3-4K for a clutch or a transmission rebuilt. If you're serious, make a deal with the dealership/owner to get the transmission rebuilt. That's always a good plus if they are willing to work that out.

bigjulzz

Just bring a mechanic with you... The market is hot right now. Evos are becoming harder and harder to come by and even at 100K miles they're still holding their value.

BrendanTheGreat

As people above said, expect it to need a new clutch fairly soon. See if you can do a pull in it and see if it slips or grinds. The clutch has got to be fairly worn by now.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

OP: in case you aren't sure how: put the car in 4th gear, around 2500RPM, then floor it. If RPM goes up and the car doesn't move any faster, you have a bad clutch

BrendanTheGreat

Does this actually work and hold true? I've never heard of doing this exact method but its a great idea if it works lol

kaj

iTrader: (60)

It's how I've always tested them. It will start slipping once boost kicks in and the torque spikes.

4b11slayer

I wouldnt punch my car in 4th at 2500 rpm.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

But then you could made awesome looking dyno charts.

4b11slayer

Lol, inflated numbers?