I guess my post made it seem like I was giving up on the car. I wont be giving up on the car, even if it does not make financial sense (within some reason of course). I was simply stating the odds are very much against me on a car that is probably terrible compared to others in terms of where the rust is. I will be saving up to either buy a rear clip or the side rails needed to make her perfect again. I have too much sentimental value on this car to let her rot in a junk yard. Plus it being an MR trim justifies me keeping it too.

As long as I can have the car last me a year or two I can do a proper restoration on it.

 

My 03 is similar, but I have holes in mine

I've had the car for a few years now, the body is in absolutely flawless condition, not a spec of rust in any door jams, under hood, quarter panels, under wing, NOTHING. The car gets so much attention with "how clean it is" You'd never guess that underneath the car its rotted away. I took the car into Mitsu for the recall and everyone crowded around it and the service writer chuckled at me and said "you must just want the free car wash and frame spray." Not to my surprise, he came out 20 minutes later and said a front sub frame has been ordered and he would have never guessed how bad the rust was underneath the car. So that was a free step to restoration haha. But as far as the rear goes, I am just going to send it and hope for the best. I moved from WI to CA with the car and it now sits in the garage and there is virtually no humidity/rain here so hopefully this hole doesn't get any bigger.

 

This is a great idea. I am going to take the time today to put together a complaint for I feel holes in vehicle structure is a safety issue. When I worked at Toyota, we were constantly replacing entire Tacoma and Tundra frames for this issue, even the slightest pin hole the trucks got a full frame replacement along with anything that broke during the recall (fuel lines, brake lines, bolts etc) was replaced. If Mitsubishi can be as awesome as Toyota, I will never complain about my problematic Evo again haha

 

Mitsubishi won't do a damn thing to help, and the government won't step in for rust on 10+ year old cars. Cars rust, this is a fact of life, not a manufacturer defect.

FlashEvolution, that hole should be addressed. It could be cut and patched rather easily, instead of letting the rust spread.

 

FYI, here's the 80k mile 2008 Evo-X I was talking about before. Note the rust on the inner rocker in front of the driver's side rear wheel, that is integral metal. This car is a lot worse than it looks in pictures, and is probably too far gone. Most of the cars in this thread can be saved, but you have to protect your investment. Stop rust before it starts, and fix it once it appears.

 

That X ain't that bad. We've all seen worse. That Krown place looks great. PERFECT for a new vehicle. Can't get their pricing tab to work, but it seems as a temporary preventative maintenance and not more permanent.

 

Can I ask for the update on your situation? I am in the same exact position - my evo ix mr is bone stock and looks pristine on outside. But this summer I decided to do underbody rust treatment ...but I was too late, the rust left a hole in the left rear frame rail that's not too big but on the passanger rear side it rusted through near the subframe mount point, the actual inner structure where bolt goes looks solid but outer frame is gone - so it is now a safety concern. Were you able to source frame rails / sidemembers? Does anyone know the part numbers and a place where I can buy them with shipping to US?

 

given the recall, i would take it to the dealer and see if they will do anything or tell you to pound sand. Start there. i do believe you can purchase the rear underbody/unibody parts but obviously must know a body or restoration shop.

 

What recall? Doesn't anybody know that most if not all Evolutions except for the X were purposefully built without rust protection to save weight? Rust can happen on all cars but it is not nearly the same as with a car that was never anodized or treated properly. Rust will happen and if you want it to last ten years then don't even go a month driving it near salt before you treat it with something. I am just waiting to jack my car up and then I am using clear rustoleum spray can clear coat because it's cheap, I can always just fill any gaps in, it is not as visible as paint is so I get the original look and I can put a layer of that waxy oil rust proof stuff we are supposed to be using on our cars. This is the first thing I am doing even though we only have salt on the roads maybe for a few days a year. Even just living near the ocean is enough to make me want to put something, anything underneath my car as it's even more important than having colour matching door panels which all of us would probably fix asap lol.

 

The easiest way to get rear chassis legs would be to find a shop that specializes in buying crashed Evos and parting them out. Most of the time they either sell the bare shell or will cut out components to people who need the parts. I know two shop pages on Facebook that do this: b&m performance and Miller Import Parts Used Parts and Cars.

Then you can find a body shop once you have the replacement sheet metal members and ask them for a quote to replace the rusted sections. Its a decent amount of labor since once the rear end is disassembled then the spot welds will need to be cut out. Also you will have to deal with the issue of disassembly of rusted and seized bolts. Might as well start spraying the chassis down with a chemical that can dissolve rust. I have seen a couple products tested on youtube that work well. Krud Kutter might work.

 

[QUOTE=deylag;11884980]The easiest way to get rear chassis legs would be to find a shop that specializes in buying crashed Evos and parting them out. Most of the time they either sell the bare shell or will cut out components to people who need the parts. I know two shop pages on Facebook that do this: b&m performance and Miller Import Parts Used Parts and Cars.

Then you can find a body shop once you have the replacement sheet metal members and ask them for a quote to replace the rusted sections. Its a decent amount of labor since once the rear end is disassembled then the spot welds will need to be cut out. Also you will have to deal with the issue of disassembly of rusted and seized bolts. Might as well start spraying the chassis down with a chemical that can dissolve rust. I have seen a couple products tested on youtube that work well. Krud Kutter might work.[/QUOTES]

I love boards where it is actually real car enthusiasts. Not just roof rack and rim enthusiasts who group flame you to death for saying anything intelligent. Thank you for this information by the way because I had no clue which pages were good for us as I try to stay away from Facebook pages because of the aholes that cause master builders to actually leave the community and go into isolation (I'm not a master builder but I know a few who went into hiding). I don't think I need any panels but I want to know where I can get stuff like this.

 

Here's the process documented for EVO 6, pretty much the same thing for CT9A (http://www.autotorque.net/mitsubishi...y-restoration/). Thank you for the info about crashed evo part outs, I will try to source a replacement there. I already coated rails from the inside, just need to deal with a gaping rust hole, hopefully some fabrication shop will be willing to do a temporary patch job before I can source the replacement

 

There was a recall for many Mitsubishi models from the Northeast of the United States for front subframe insufficient rust protection. If you qualified, they sent you paperwork about it.

 

Subscribed / resurrecting this thread, as my Evo has similar rear frame rot issues. Both sides each have about one layer rotted away, and I'm afraid I'm going to start having holes bursting through if I don't do something about it.\

Curious what kind of progress the OP may have had since this post a year ago.

 

Rust really really sucks. Best thing to have is a cheap winter beater from day one, and keep your toys clean. Living in Ontario, Canada I’ve learned that lesson at a young age.

I’ve definitely seen worst rust. To be honest I’ve seen worse rust on 2012-2014 Evos that have been winter driven, and never oil coated. Fortunately mine hasn’t seen a winter for most of its life and it’s clean for being a 13 year old car with 160k miles on the body. That said I’m planning to drop my rear subframe when I ‘upgrade’ to the Evo 8 read diff this winter, I’m going to grind it and sand blast it, seal it with some epoxy primer and paint it before it goes back in, as it’s steel and not aluminium on the X.

Another issue, as mentioned, is a lot of body shops don’t like to fix rust anymore. The one I work for, rust repairs get turned down as they’re often loser jobs. They’re always more work than quoted. The only time we take on rust is if it’s collision related, or if we’re extremely slow which almost never happens.