yet nowhere near as accurate.

 

Well yeah, you can argue the accuracy of any wheel dyno also. Dynojets vs dynapacks etc. are very different in mechanism and in the readings they give. The G-Tech by all means isn't a great tuning tool like a load-bearing dyno, but it will tell you what your overall improvement in peak horsepower was before and after, and to me that's worth a lot. And the degree of precision (run to run variation) is really suprising considering just how simple a device this is.

By the way, that's a monster civic dude! What are we talkin, engine swap, turbo? Sounds like fun

Oh yeah, and you can't put an all wheel dyno in your pocket...
Then again you can't drop it on the ground or back over it either.

 

Really comparing Dyno to Dyno everything is irrelevant. The *best* and IMHO ONLY way to dyno any car is on the SAME dyno the entire time. Then yu will be comparing apples, to apples, to apples. Now, Im not saying ONLY use a GTech, but don't go baseline on a MD dyno (at let's say 205HP) install an intake, then dyno on a Dynojet and say the intake made 30WHP. Just cheating yourself that way.

Anyhow, back to subject, GTech =

 

The G-Tech calculates torque based on horesepower and RPM. If your torque is off, it's most likely that you don't have your RPM's calibrated correctly. Try re-doing that procedure, and make sure your upper calibration point is high enough. Also, if you're not getting stable RPM readings, try turning on your lights and fan, that helps sometimes. But whatever is turned on when you calibrate your RPM's should also be turned on whenever you do your runs.

I posted some new software a while back for the G-Tech, you might want to search for that.

I'm using 3500 lbs. for the weight. I forget where I came up with that number, but I think it's close if you have a sunroof and big spoiler, and a full tank of gas.

 

thanks man. just the standard resleeved 2 liter b18c, with a t3/t4.. lots of fun... but lots of traction problems, a serious sleeper though...


I was just stating my experiences with a g-tech... i noticed a slight variation in each "dyno pull"... it varied from 325 to about 340(with conditions as close as possible) with my civic in it's earlier stages.
when the civic was pushing 400 to the wheels, the g-tech would read from 380 to 435. the more power, the less accurate it seemed..

the 1/4 mile feature was reasonably accurate. but you MUST find a very very level road... because even on the slightest incline will effect it.
i remember making a 13.0 pass with it with a friend in the car, then finding a slight downhill section, got out of the car... put a jimfab.com sticker on the bumper.... and ran a 12.6.... i almost had him convinced that stickers do make your car faster.

but again, for what it is... it's a neat little toy. a lot of fun to mess around with.

 

Got a G Tech today too. Seems like a fun piece of equipment. As long as the numbers are consistent, I think it will be useful for me. Should be accurate enough for me to determine if my mods are adding power, w/o the expense of dynoing my car after each mod.

First and only run - 0-60 in 5.3 seconds, 236hp 215 ft/lbs torque. Hit the rev limiter in 1st - doh! Wonder how long my clutch will last with me playing around with this thing.

Didn't want to run the 1/4 mile on public roads. Will have to wait for that. Will the HP and Torque numbers be different running the quarter mile vs just 0-60?

 

What all's involved in installing the Gtech Pro Competition?

 

Sticking a suction cup to your windshield and entering a few numbers into the unit itself is all it takes.

I ended up buying a splitter for the power too, so I could have my radar detector plugged in at the same time. Not that I would exceed the speed limit or anything though.

 

They do serve a purpose........like anything you can evaluate mods with a baseline established. The raw Hp numbers maybe close or far off. I would use this as a tool to gauge changes. I.E. same conditions , added an exhuast, how many more HP is my gtech reading now? That kinda stuff.

 

Do you have to launch the car to get hp/torque graphs, and other data? or can you just go from a first gear roll. I don't like launching the car at all.

 

For HP/Torque graphs you just need to nudge the car to start the timer, then put it into 3rd or 4th gear and floor it until red line. Be sure to be consistant in your gear choice for testing; using the same test track is also a good idea.

Twan is exactly right about using this as a tool for testing changes. You can do HP/Torque, 0-60, 0-100, 100-0, 60-0, and cornering force. If you are into drag racing it can also measure all the usual 1/4 mile stuff like 60', 1/8 mi, 1/4 mi, reaction time and trap speed. There may be more, I haven't explored those functions much.

 

Sorry - but can you explain in more detail how to get the hp/torque info w/o launching? Didn't get it.

Thanks

 

My yellow car has been using the g-tech since I built the car. Definately the best gauge I bought with the autometer air temp gauge running a close second.

The last g-tech run showed 450whp/410tq. Took the car to the dyno two days later and it pulled 468whp/450tq. Keeping in mind the gtech measures hp in third gear and all four wheels. The dyno was done fwd in 4th gear. my car pulls harder in fourth and in 2wd mode it definately torques up faster.

Take your car to ten different dynoes and you willget ten different readings. What is most important is its back to back accuracy which is definately there. This unit to me really does eliminate the need for a dyno. Better really cause the results are actual conditions.

My best third gear g-force is .93 he-he.

 

Sorry if I wasn't clear on getting the HP & Torque map. You give the car a firm start in 1st (just a quck bump to trigger the G-Tech, no more than 5-10 mph), then put it in 3rd or 4th and floor it. Hold the car floored until red line. When you download the data from that run it produces a nice even "dyno" plot.

 

Can you just flick the control unit to start it?