Well guys i pushed it a little to far i think. Either the dyno that my car was tuned on was reading so low that we have more HP then we though or it was just going to happen. The other day i was giving my friend a ride and on top of third gear the car lost power and shut off. I got the car towed home so that whatever it was would not get worse. I pulled the plugs to find out that one of the plugs were bent to hell but almost looked melted (Denso 2 steps colder IK24) I did a compression test and it was 140 across the board. So i thought i was good to go. Ordered some Denso IK27 (3 steps colder) and got them today. Installed them and the car was idling fine so i let it warm up to operating temperature and the reved it up once to make sure everything was cool. At about 5K rpms it backfired like no other then shut off. I logged the whole process on the AEM so i have that if anybody would be able to tell anything on that? Anyway I pulled the plugs agian and the same plug was bent to hell agian. I did another compression test and they were all 135 except for that one which was at 120. I through some oil in that cylinder and did another compression test and it went through the roof. So im guessing a Piston ring? Then i started thinking about it and figured the only thing that could make the piston hit the plug would be either a rod stretched or a rod bolt. What do you guys think? Anyway i was hoping somebody could give me some info about what you think about the problem. Also could anybody tell me what the best bet would be to either get a 2.2-2.3 stroker kit or just go for blueprinting and balancing the 2.0 with new rods and pistons? Any sugestions would be greatly appriciated since this is my daily driver and now i must look for somthing else to get me around until i can get this fixed. I have pictures of the plugs if anybody would like to see i can post them

Thanx
Chris

 

I wouldnt think it would be the rod bolt. I had a rod bolt go on my eclipse and when that sucker went everything shattered, you would definatley know if a rod bolt gave out. I would definately be interested in seeing the pic of the plug though.

 

ohhh mang, this isn't what I wanted to hear.

How high were you reving? 7500? 8?

 

I have it set to 7500rpms. I will post pics tonight of the plugs. Im so upset! Im gonna pull the head off this weekened and see what happened. Any suggestions on what pistons and rods i should be looking for? maybe i will be lucky and a valve broke and its hitting the plug. Dont know we will see.

 

put everything back to stock an let the dealership fix it if you can't get it resolved.

 

F OFF!!!


It's a$$holes like you that ruin warranty repair for the rest of everyone else.

If you mod your car, you take the risk of breaking it. You pay to play.

 

paragraphs are your friend

 

Well, if your spark plug is damaged, ie. something closed the gap, it means something smashed into it. In my case it was my piston. If there were silver flakes on your spark plug it means it blew due to detonation, ie. a bad tune. And 140 is low to start with, so you should have pulled the head when they read 140. I really doubt it was your rod bolt, but I could be wrong.

 

If you want a real diagnosis over the phone and a deal on parts call David Buschur (440-839-1900). He has custom spec Pistons and Rods that either he or a local machine shop could install for you.

 

Thanx for the info guys. THis is what im thinking now. Im wondering if a valve broke and is sitting ontop of the piston. Becouse when you do a copression test it just hold the peak reading so if it got a low reading say on the intake side then on the exahust it was fine it would look ok right? And yea i thought about taking it in for warranty but that thought passed really quickly becouse it would be wrong for one and i might as well build the internals to get me some more HP potential anyways so going to the dealer is out of the question. I have been looking for pistons and rods and i like the ROSS pistons and probably the Eagle rods. But AMS 2.3 stroker kit really is looking good to me. For about $700 more or a total of $1900 i can get the 2.3 otherwise i go with about $1000-1200 and keep the 2.0 and just build the bottom end. I dont know im going to pull the head and see what i find and if it is a valve i will build the head and go with 2.0 pistons and rods but if the bottom end is F*** then i will probably go with the 2.3. What do you guys think? I basically got $3K to get me through this problem. I have rebuilt a engine 2 times from ground up but on nissan SR20DET's so this Mitsu will be new to me. But i have 2 tuners that said they will help if i need it to save money on the labor. From what you guys know would i be better to go with ROSS, JE, Arias, Wiseco pistons or someone else you guys know about? Also would it be a good idea to stay at 8:8:1 or go to 8:5:1? Im thinking i could stay at 8:8 and get a thicker head gasket to help a little so i would have a little more power off boost but i dont know this SUCKS!

 

OH yea i thought that 135-140 was about normal. Shiv's car runs 135 across the board with his and claims this is perfect. Am i not understanding somthing?

 

I agree, if the bottom end is bad, build it.

If not, then fix it.

 

in order for the pistong to touch the plug it would have to hit the chamber first and at least tap the valves. The plug electrode extends at the very top of the chamber therefore making the piston hitting it a little difficult to imagine, although anything can happen. Try and remove the plug and looking in the chamber with a small flashlight. Maybe you had detonation and a piece of the piston aluminum became distorted at that particular spot?? Like I said , anything can happen.

 

First thing is first, it sounds like you blew your engine to detonation (like myself) find out why. Call your tuner up and get some answers. Mine made major mistakes, yours probably did too. So, take it somewhere different to get it retuned. The brand of internals isn't as important as getting your machine and assembly work done right. I blew a chunk of my number 2 piston off and it went out the valves and trashed my head. If you think your going to get this done for 3K with machine work and assembly your being very optimistic, ie. living in a dream world. It sucks, it happened to me three weeks ago.

And my number 2 piston had the gap completely closed. I had to completely rebuild, mill and port the head.

I can't say this enough, call Buschur Racing and ask for David.

 

I already have calls in to david all with PMS im waiting for him to respond along with darkhorse. And honestly i dont see any problem getting this done depending on the damage it has done which i dont think is that bad since the car runs and idles. But im not taking the risk to even start it anymore. And if it was a hold in my piston i wouldnt be seeing any compression in that cylinder. But anyway its all going to depend on the damage. I think first thing is first and pull off the head and see where it stands. As far as the tune you could be right but it is running very conservitive tune at 11:3 A/F and the knock table is setup to retard timing when knock is seen. I have logged multiple runs and have no knock at all. But you never know it could be the tune but cant really do anything about that till it is back together and working. We will see this weekened i will take pictures. Sorry if i have attitude this is just really bothering me. Thanx for your help!